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Tire pressure & suspension setting for the K6

2.5K views 16 replies 12 participants last post by  RandG  
#1 ·
I do all my riding on the streets, mostly twisty backroads and a little high speed run, some of the time on bad roads. So what is the best tire pressure under these circumstances or do i just do what the factory recommends?
And how about suspension setting for my situation.
Thank you very much.
 
#4 ·
Pilot Powers: 34/34

FRONT:
Spring pre load: 4 lines showing
Rebound Damp: 2 click out from full stiff (this is important as the rebound circuit seems to be really stiff to be effective)
Compresion: 11 clicks out from full stiff
About 7 mm frok tube showing

REAR:
Spring preload: 14 mm thread showing
Reabound damp: 8 clicks out from full stiff
Compresion Damp: 12 clicks out from full stiff


BTW, I'm 205 lbs without gear
 
#5 ·
For tires, ALWAYS use the psi values stamped on the sides of the tires. The tire makers know their shid.

One of the factors in that Firestone debacle a few years ago was this very thing. Car manufacturers were specing lowere pressures than the tire manufacturers were printing on the tires. Car dealers could sell more cars this way because the rides were more cushy.

While the defense did not prevail overall, this was one of the things which was pointed out as a problem: People weren't using the pressures recommended by the tire makers and were therefore jeopardizing their safety.

So, use the tire makers' pressure recommendations.

As a side note, however, motorcycle tires are generally so overbuilt as to make it hardly matter, however, it's not nice to fool with mother nature or with engineering design specs!

--Wag--
 
#6 ·
I`m running PP`s and if I`m at the track I`ll run 30/30
On the street 34/36
If I`m in twisties for any extended period of time I`ll run 30/30. All cold readings of course.
If you run under inflated tyres on the street tyre longevity will suffer and if you hit a killer pot hole your rim will suffer.
I`m about to put on some power race and they apparently use ridiculously low pressures
I`m 70kgs without gear and I`ve put softer springs in the front and a stiffer spring in the rear.
29mm of rider sag, front comp track 7 clicks out from full stiff/ street 9 clicks.
Rear 7clicks track/ street 11 clicks.
Carn`t remember rebound, not much though.
Its a bastard of a thing to ride on bumpy surfaces but on the smooth shit WOT.
Its like its on rails at the track.
 
#7 ·
make it perfect for WHEELIES
 
#10 ·
Things you ought to know about tire pressure (correct me if I'm wrong):
Image


1. Tires and suspension work together as a package/system. The frame also, but that is another story....

2. Manufacturers want to get the best handling/tire life compromise for their customers, and themselves. How would they look if buyers had to change tires every 1,500 miles? Or how would mag comparison tests look like if some tires were ready for the scrapheap when competitors were only slightly worn?

3. Racers/track riders go for the lowest possible tire pressure to increase grip. The tire deforms more, presenting a larger contact patch than would one set at higher pressures. They also take into account the fact that air expands with heat, and some tires can record a 6 to 8 psi increase from track use (depending also on track temps, and track pace). They also have to harden suspension settings (not always a good thing) to account for the tire's reduced rigidity at lower pressures.

4. Using track pressures on the STREET results in:

a. Significantly reduced tire life

b. Poor suspension compliance (the tire is doing the work of the suspension, most of the time)

c. Poor general handling, especially over road surface imperfections.

5. Some enlightened riders head for an in-between pressure setting (between optimal track and road settings, such as 34F/36R) to get the best of both worlds (tire life and grip).

Anyone care to add more........ or disagree?
Image
 
#14 ·
Wag said:
For tires, ALWAYS use the psi values stamped on the sides of the tires. The tire makers know their shid.

One of the factors in that Firestone debacle a few years ago was this very thing. Car manufacturers were specing lowere pressures than the tire manufacturers were printing on the tires. Car dealers could sell more cars this way because the rides were more cushy.

While the defense did not prevail overall, this was one of the things which was pointed out as a problem: People weren't using the pressures recommended by the tire makers and were therefore jeopardizing their safety.

So, use the tire makers' pressure recommendations.

As a side note, however, motorcycle tires are generally so overbuilt as to make it hardly matter, however, it's not nice to fool with mother nature or with engineering design specs!

--Wag--
The pressure stamped on the side of the tire is max load at max pressure when measured cold not the recommend riding pressures.

PP say max load at 42 PSI cold on the side of the tire

If you try to run 42 PSI cold in your PP your bike will handle like poop not to mention try that on the track and you will be on your ass in no time.

Michelin recommends 30-32 front and 28 rear for track and that seems to work for me.

On the street I run 33 front and 32 rear and when temp drops in fall I run 35 front and 34 rear. To date the bike handles very good.

Suspension setting and riding style also play a major role in tire pressure.
 
#16 ·
RandG said:
Are you sure :confused

I would have thought that was suggested pressures :eek
Check out the label on the side of the tire.

Here is the email directly from Michelin motorcycle race support.

The vehicle manufacturer recommends air pressure for street driving.
For racing on the track only 30-32 psi front and 28 psi rear.