Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

My K7 is too heavy at the track :-( HELP!

Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

DevlinPM

· Premium Member
Joined
·
313 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I've moved from a 600cc to the K7 and love everything but the weight/heft of the bike. Where are the best places to shed weight on the K7? I understand that I will be down ~22lbs as soon as my Akro slipon arrives. Good!

What are the next best/cheapest places to loose weight? race bodywork OR wheels OR what??

I know its important to first loose weight where it is not centralized (ie: back of the subframe, infront of the forks, below the shocks, etc... I noticed that my subframe is a two piece unit, does race fg ditch the back half of it? I hope so (it looks heavy and serves no purpose at the track)

Footnote: For reasons I won't got into here, I had the front end stripped down to the fork tubes. I was amazed at how much the whole front end of the K7 weighs with the whole of the upper plastics, headlight, gauges, ram air ducts, mirrors, etc... I must have been to 30 + lbs :eek:hmy It realy got me thinking that this bike could loose some serious weight with the right mods.
 
#3 ·
The treadmill.............it's free :)


Actually the important place to lose weight (at least in respect to handling) is unsprung weight, sprung weight has much less of and impact. If you are trying to lose sprung weight, just make sure that you yourself are not carrying the majority of it ;)
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #4 ·
SPL170db said:
The treadmill.............it's free :)


Actually the important place to lose weight (at least in respect to handling) is unsprung weight, sprung weight has much less of and impact. If you are trying to lose sprung weight, just make sure that you yourself are not carrying the majority of it ;)
Click to expand...
lol, did that. I was 220+ now 185lbs and dropping :)
 
#5 ·
Good deal.

Well like Corey said the place to drop weight now would be the wheels, brakes and driveline, those are all unsprung.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#6 ·
What kinda 600? The diff between a 1k and a 600 has only got to be about 20lbs or so once you drop the exhaust and virtually all sprung. My 1k felt lighter than my 600 cause of the better weight distribution or geometry or something.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #8 ·
easter bunny said:
What kinda 600? The diff between a 1k and a 600 has only got to be about 20lbs or so once you drop the exhaust and virtually all sprung. My 1k felt lighter than my 600 cause of the better weight distribution or geometry or something.
Click to expand...
I know it's not, but it "feels" about 50-100lbs heavier than my buddies 2007 ZX-6R going into corners and under braking. Strange cuz the ZX gained weight this year as well?!?!?

FWIW, we've both have stock exhaust w/cat, his has fg and Vortex rearsets. We both have SS lines. His brakes are better stock, no doubt, er maybe its just the weight. I'm realy confused about it to be honest :sad
 
#9 ·
DevlinPM said:
I know it's not, but it "feels" about 50-100lbs heavier than my buddies 2007 ZX-6R going into corners and under braking. Strange cuz the ZX gained weight this year as well?!?!?
Click to expand...
Prob the geometry then. I've got a ZX-10 and I know the 6R is a damn scalpel. I thought you were coming off an older model.

Some of it might be mental though - on a 600 you're not gaining speed near as fast as you are on a 600. So in tight sections you've actually got a higher corner entry speed and you're actually applying more brake and feeling more weight xfer. When I first got my 1k I know I was used to coming in "by ear" and I totally had to readjust my perception. It felt like I was using less throttle, coming out slower, braking earlier, etc - turns out I was faster everywhere.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
If you haven't aleady guessed, yes I was beating him (zx-6r buddy) last year when we were both on F4i's And now he is smoking me (about 4 seconds a lap faster at Calabogie here in Canada). It could simply be I don't have the skills/balls to go all out on a liter bike. not sure to lighten the K7 or get another 600 again for the track.
 
#12 ·
They are going to ride differently. You have almost double the engine gyroscopic weight on the 1000 (bigger pistons). This is going to make it harder to turn in and maneuver, regardless of central weight. The wider wheel and tire will also have this effect with gyroscopic effects. Lighter wheels will help this out. After that look into geometry. My 1000 is actually a couple of lbs lighter than my 600 when both in full race trim. I sure as hell feels heavier still.

You *MUST* ride the two different. The 600 is a game of precision and finesse. The 1000 is a game of strength, force, and reaction, and throttle control. If you dont like the way the 1000 feels on the track compared to a 600, the best solution is to ride a 600.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#14 ·
get rid of rotating mass. wheels, rotors..etc.
i forgot the exact formula but i think it was for every lb of rotating mass that u remove, its like removing 8lbs off your bike.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#15 ·
DevlinPM said:
If you haven't aleady guessed, yes I was beating him (zx-6r buddy) last year when we were both on F4i's And now he is smoking me (about 4 seconds a lap faster at Calabogie here in Canada). It could simply be I don't have the skills/balls to go all out on a liter bike. not sure to lighten the K7 or get another 600 again for the track.
Click to expand...
You said it. It's your courage on the 1000. I used to flog the hell out of any 600 I owned (and I had a great F4i, ZX-6r, R6) with almost no fear or apprehension. On the K7, the bike has 60 more HP than almost any 600. Huge difference! You just gotta get used to the power delivery...but you already know that. 600's now feel like scooters, but I like scooters so...lol

Maybe some suspension goodies?
 
#17 ·
Well after doing push aways(push away from the dinner table) start with what others suggested like wheels, chains-sprockets, brake rotors etc. Unless your building a bike ONLY FOR TRACK DAYS, the farther you go the more expensive and streetable it will be. Most know this and get souped on buying everything like Yosh is paying for it but go for common sense, overall balance etc. Try these too! and have fun,stay safe!
 

Attachments

#19 ·
You may need to work on bike setup! Play with shock and fork settings. You can buy a Titanium rear spring for around $300-$500 and remove 10 lbs. of weight. If you're 185 lbs. now; you need a 85 or 80 spring on the back instead of the 95 which comes with the bike for a 200 lb. rider and 100 lb. passenger! I think it has two 95 springs in the front forks. You probably need a 90 or 85; plus an Ohlins cartridge kit. I will then handle with the best.

R.C.

:cool
 
#20 ·
Wow, an 85 (.85) in the front?? Most racers are running 1.0 or 1.05 springs up front on the new big bikes.

Your spring rates seem off my friend.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
About this Discussion
25 Replies
16 Participants
Last post:
MotoMummy
Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com
posts
6.5M
members
249K
Since
2000
A forum community dedicated to the Suzuki GSX-R motorcycle. Discuss the GSX-R600, GSX-R750, GSX-R1000, and GSX-R1100, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
General Bike Talk 06-07 GSX-R600/750 GSX-R1000 General Forum Photos & Videos The Original Farm