Negative ghost rider those are off the mark.

Also preload is mainly used to set sag which is based on your weight and the springs in the bike.

Read over this thread as it will get you going in the right direction.

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238205

 

sorry but i do not really understand this line.
Mind explaining to a newbie like me?

"Negative ghost rider those are off the mark."

 

Mind explaining to a newbie like me?

Recommended settings from magazines and such are usually a load of bullshit.

You need to set your bike to your weight and your riding style and usage and road conditions.

What is some jumped up journalist going to know.

 

i wouldnt trust any suspension setting other than the ones i set up myself. I have boht my bikes set up by Lako Performance here in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan. this guy knows his suspension. like i said in your other thread, you have to set the sag up with you on the bike and fully geared. also, you should have between 1/2 and 3/4 tank of gas. no more than 3/4 of a tank. fuel weighs quite a bit, and as your riding and burning gas, that gets lighter, and may throw off your suspension adjustments off.

now depending on your weight will depend if you can get the sag correct. if you weigh over 200, the oem fork springs are not gonna work and you wont be able to get the sag numbers right. thus needing heavier fork springs. this can be the same for the rear shock as well.

 

How can they recommend settings when everyone weighs differently, and also rides differently?

 

Its an average setting for the average person.

 

exactly ^^^

 

^^^^One could go further and say

average roads
average conditions
average throttle control
average braking
average tire pressure
average lean angle
and most important average ability

OP you sure all these fit you as a rider??? If so then go for it

 

Then you are only going to end up with an average setup bike. (at best)

 

Compare Sport Rider's recommended settings on a K8 GSXR 750 http://www.sportrider.com/suspensio...om/suspension_settings/suspension/146_suggested_suspension_settings/suzuki.html to another journalist's 750 settings... http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/563/7...a.com/563/7395/Motorcycle-Article/Ben-Younger-Makes-Friends-with-the-Track.aspx


Sport Rider start with preload...! WTF... preload is set to the weight of the rider. The other journalist wisely doesn't mention preload.

Front forks: Rebound, Low-s comp, Hi-s comp. (all numbers are turns out from full in)


Sport Rider: .25, 2.5, 3

Other journalist: 1, 1.5, 1


These are worlds apart considering 1/8 of a turn can make a noticeable difference.

I can't compare the rear shock settings because the numbers in Sport Rider are cut off by the add running down the side of the page in both of my web browsers
(can anybody else see them and post them up?)

Frankly I think recommended settings are a load of bullshit. There are too many other variables that will have influences on what someone will arrive at.

 

.... ..

 

On another note.... I'm just tracking my bike these days... and the Front rebound is pretty dam close @ .5 & .25 and the Front compression 2.5 to mine thats all... the preload in the front 9 turns??? what... 9 full turns from stiff... thats nutz... and rear compression 4 turns out.... no way...
I can vouch for the front rebound being close thats all

 

and the Front rebound is pretty dam close @ .5 & .25 and... ...I can vouch for the front rebound being close thats all

Interesting that most riders do end up winding in the front rebound. The factory setting is 1 and 3/4 turns out.

This is exactly the problem my suspension tuner talks about...

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/s...owthread.php/126017-GSX-R600-K9-suspension-settings?p=1129822247#post1129822247

"With GSXR600 / 750 we have now modified in excess of 30 sets of forks because they severely lack high speed rebound control. The effect of that is that when you have gone deep into a corner and have used all the travel up the bike tries to ''stand up'' all too readily as you release the brakes. That causes a little bit of instability and makes the bike understeer off especially the tightest turns.
People try and ''tune'' this out by moving the rebound clickers in further and further and it kind of fudges it but then introduces another problem. That rebound adjuster moves a needle in the bottom of the cartridge rod which affects flow not only in extension ( rebound ) but also in compression. By having that adjuster in so far it gives a little more high speed rebound ( but actually not enough ) but also gives too much low speed rebound and too much low speed compression.
So at the top of the stroke as its extending ( accelerating off corners ) the forks are very lethargic in action and that harms their responsiveness to suface irregularities both on the upramps of same and downramps. that affects the grip your tyre has with the road surface! if the low speed rebound is too lethargic it is ''slowing down'' / impeding the ability of the fork springs to put as much pressure as possible on the tyre. Loss of grip.
Moreover, if the adjusters end up in a crazy place the damping can cavitate. The working range of these adjusters that gives you good response but doesnt also overdamp at low shaft speeds is actually a lot narrower than people think. They are not a magic fix all and dont compensate for any internal valving deficiencies, that account for 90% or more of mass flow."

 

Putting a kit in my forks was one of the best things I did for the track.

 

Investing in suspension was one of the best things I did for the street. unk

(although I do live in a motorcyclist's paradise in a country of mostly alpine and coastal roads with very low population. This Honda ad was shot in my area. Every scene is within a day's ride from my place)...

 

The 2 most important baseline settings (rider sag and rebound) are determined by the rider's weight.....something that needs to be set specifically for you, not based on some arbitrary "recommended" settings from a magazine.