When it's in neutral idling, what is the RPM? It also could need spark plugs if it's been sitting a while. As far as your mileage, 190 Kms which is around 120 miles for me, seems pretty normal if you are riding a little hard. 300 kms or 185 miles is unheard of. The best I've had was around 140-150 miles.

 

If you change out the plugs it'd probably be worth it to test the fuel pump while you got the tank propped up.

 

mines doing the samething but i changed the plugs and still does it. how to u check the fuel pump to make sure its working right?

 

i'm pretty sure you have to find where the fuel pump pumps fuel right before injectors

and put the line into a cup or watter bottle

turn key which will activate the fuel pump to pressurize, basically if it pump a decent amt of fuel it's fine, if it's barely noticeable then its not pumping enough

but why would the fuel pump work properly at high rpms and not low rpms?

**************** my bike idles at like 1000-1200 rpm

 

Comparing km's to a tank is pointless, both bikes probably had different size tanks.

 

At low RPM the IAP, AP, throttle balance, and TPS are the critical inputs.

Check your vacuum lines to the IAP sensor and check the TPS calibration. Sync the throttle bodies next, and then test the pressure sensors (which is difficult).

But, it could also be poor fuel atomization from dirty injectors or even poor compression.

 

well i was looking at all my sensors and my atmosperic pressure sensor doesnt have a vacuum line running to it. could that cause the hesitation? and where am i sapposed to hook the sensor up to once i have vacuum line?

 

blinker fluid

 

The atmospheric sensor has no line on it... it's just open to the atmosphere. The IAP sensor is the same thing, but is connected with lines to sample the pressure inside the intakes. Take the differential between the two and compound it with the air temp (IAT) and you know exactly how much air is going into the engine, and therefore how much fuel needs to be sprayed.

The amount of fuel is calculated off a given pressure and known flow rate at that pressure for the injectors.

Screw up any one piece of the system and your mix will be off. The engine is most sensitive to this at low RPM.

 

Its a 600......it's not supposed to make any power at 3K rpm. Try back again at 13K rpm

 

Its a 600......it's not supposed to make any power at 3K rpm. Try back again at 13K rpm

Big difference between a lack of power and backfire/sputtering.

 

ok ill try all that. its just freaks my gf out when she takes a corner like at a redlight and the bike hesitates while shes turning at low rpms

 

i'll try seafoam first

see if it helps the injectors?

 

im checking tps tomorrow. i already seafoamed and it still doing it. the throttle bodies are in sync and everything so this is my last resort.

 

the tps isnt my prob, put it in dealer mode and its showing its calibrated correctly. what else can it be? ive tried new gas, pump, tps sensor, spark plugs. could it be the coil packs??

 

Need to test the other AF ratio sensors.... AP, IAP, and IAT.

You can cheat. Unplug all three and run the bike in limp mode. See what it does then.

 

ok and could the throttle cables not being lubed cause it?

 

its gotta be a fuel / air ratio probem or w/e controls that isn't working properly

 

so here's an update, my bike is stuttering and mising at all rpms now LOL WTF?

 

I had someone follow me and it backfires with fire, smells like gas sometimes, must be running rich? also my valves r noisy and now the stuttering problem happens at any rpm?

so any help would be appreciated

 

Have you followed theGeek's instructions? If it seems to run smooth ONLY under WOT, then its probably one of those sensors. I'm having a similar issue with my bike right now, I'll let you know what I find.

 

mines still doin it but i cant find out what sensors theGeek was talking about. i dont do abbreviations too well lol

 

AP - atmospheric pressure. Located under the drivers seat next to the fuse box

IAT - Intake Air Temperature. Gold colored probe inside the airbox. Connector is green on the bottom right side of the airbox

IAP - Intake Air Pressue. Looks just like the AP, but mounted under the airbox on the back right bottom corner. Has a hose leading down that tees off to each of the inake runners.

 

Geek, would any one of these sensors throw a fault code?, i have 2004 gsxr600 and it is also hesitating and loading up at the bottom coming off a stop and then seems to clear up in the higher rpm's.bike has 6800 miles on it.i read one of your posts and put it in diag. mode and i had no faults stored "_c00" looks like tps was off, i tried to set it tothe middle spot but it would not respond at first, then i went all the way clockwise with it to get a base and i observed the idle, it seemed a bit better but when i rode it the bike fell on its face off a stop and then it seemed a little better after around 3-4k. when i got back to my garage i checked the tps setting and it read"-c00" so it looks like its in the right spot now but i doubt it. its still tweeked all the way to the forward most spot. i will remove it and sweep it with a multimeter"dvom" and see if the signal breaks up.maybe a bad tps, but i have no fault?? would it log a fault,and how about the other sensors for iap,iat and ap? would they log faults? thanks

 

^ check everything the geek is talking about. If everything is fine, check your battery voltage. If your charging system is malfunctioning it could cause a weak spark and hinder combustion causing it not to burn all of the fuel available. Not saying this is your problem, just something easy to check.

 

thanks Geek and racetech ill give it a shot.

 

how can i check the voltage regulator to see if its functioning properly?

 

You can also use our handy dandy flow chart if you'd like

http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf

 

download the manual. They've got the procedure for testing the battery and charging system pretty detailed.

 

All of them would in some cases. But they don't know if their getting inaccurate results. If the sensor has an electrical problem, they will always throw a code. But if you disconnect the line from the IAP sensor, it just thinks the engine is getting a lot of air and the bike will go super rich. I've even heard of debris being in the barb on the IAP and causing problems. They're just hard to test.