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Anthony D

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
ok, so this is all about my race bike build on a 2006 suzuki gsx-r600.

first off, i want to thank corey and erin from www.motomummy.com, without them, their great service, their amazing prices, and ridiculously fast shipping, the roebling road race weekend never would have happened. you can read my roebling road race report in the club racer section shortly after this thread is posted and see the insane time constraints i was under to try to get this bike built in time.

here is the link to the race report: http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=294982

ok, so i picked up a 2006 suzuki gsx-r600 on thursday february 24th, and i had to leave for roebling road on wednesday march 9th. that gave me 13 days to get all the parts delivered, installed, have the suspension done, the bike dyno tuned, and have the bike race prepped. sounds like plenty of time, right?

WRONG!!!

i ordered every part i needed by noon the day i picked up the bike, and here is what was going on the bike:

wooodcraft engine case covers - these are the best engine case covers in the industry by far imo. the quality of workmanship on these is excellent, the fit and finish is perfect, and they even come with new replacement gaskets, so you aren't left scrambling if you forgot to order them from your parts dealer like i did. the install went without a hitch, everything mounted up perfectly and sealed perfectly to the engine without a single drop of oil anywhere. i highly recommend these to everyone.
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ohlins ttx rear shock, 30mm fork cartridge kit, fork extenders, and steering damper - the bike i bought had some 2.5" vortex lowering links on it, so i needed to order some stock suzuki dogbones, which turned into a huge fiasco and ultimately caused me not to finish this build until tuesday the 8th, the day before i had to leave for roebling. you can read all about that in my review of www.mrcycles.com in the ratings section of the forum. i took the bike to markbilt racing for them to install the 30mm kit and the fork extenders while i waited for the dogbones to be delivered. the bike came back to me with the front suspension geometry set up, and mark rozema had written down what i needed to set the rear at when i installed the rear shock. the ohlins damper went on a little odd at first following the directions, but found that if i swapped the washer to under the damper instead of on top of the damper, it leveled it out and it sat perfectly.
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driven racing 520 conversion - went with my usual combo of an rk gxw 520 chain and driven racing lightweight sprockets. this combo has always held up well and performed well for me, which is why i stuck with it. for roebling road, i was told to go with a -1/+2 setup, which i did, and it worked great. i bought a bunch of other sprockets as well, that way i can change them to suit the track i am at. the quality of their product is great, and i would never run another brand gearing after how well they have served me.
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spiegler brake lines & vesrah s-rjl pads - this was the first time i had used spiegler lines, so i didn't know what to expect. when i first got them in, they didn't seem to line up properly, no matter which way i placed them, but then i realized that the spiegler's come with a banjo turning tool, which allows you to spin the banjos to suit the bike if they don't line up. i was a little skeptical at first honestly. so i put the tool in the vise, spun the banjos appropriately, and installed them. once i had the right banjo angle, they installed without a problem. i did have to adjust the banjos on both fronts and the rear lines though, which was a little annoying, as i never had to do that with the galfers. once the lines and pads were installed, i bled them well with my choice of brake fluid (gastrol gt-lma dot 4) and all was well.
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Discussion starter · #2 · (Edited)
akrapovic full titanium evo2 exhaust, bazzaz z-fi/qs/tc, and bmc race filter - the bmc race filter is pretty standard, install is easy, and it performs very well. the bazzaz was also easy to install once i deciphered the directions, and had attained a copy of the factory service manual so i knew what plugs went where for the gear sensor, rpm sensor, and tps. the akrapovic exhaust also went on perfectly, and is one of the best exhausts i have ever seen. i prefer a full exhaust, not a shorty like is popular today, which is why i went with this one specifically. the welds on the exhaust are incredible, and there was no need to force anything to mount up. everything slipped together perfectly, and the install was a breeze. i have markbilt racing do the dyno tune while they were doing the 30mm ohlins fork cartridge install, and the bike ended up with 111.9rwhp and 46.4rwtq, which is pretty good for a stock motor 600 running plain old 93 octane.
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vortex rearsets - these are a race staple, something you need or will need at some point on your career. i like the vortex since i get good grip and feel from the footpegs, and they have a large range of adjustments to suit us "vertically challenged" riders. getting these to work with the bazzaz quickshifter linkage was simple, all you need to do is cut down the linkage by 2 sections on one end, and one section on the other end with a tubing cutter, and it mounts up no problem.
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armourbodies bodywork - these were an easy install, and had all the mounting points spot on so drilling them was simple. what i did was to drill a small pilot hole, and then use my dremel to enlarge the hole in whichever direction i needed to make it fit. the only issue i had with these was the upper fairing side frame mounts. on the stock bodywork, there are tabs that you push into rubber grommets on the frame, but on the armourbodies stuff they don't have them, so i was sent on a quest for 1/2" well nuts. they had them at home depot, and once you remove the rubber grommet, the well buts take their place and they mount fine and are very very stable. armourbodies (woodcraft) should really include them in their kits, and give a more detailed instruction on how to do imo to make it easier.
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and here is the bike, finished, in the parking lot of the hotel at roebling road.
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how everything performed:

well, the dyno numbers speak for themselves in terms of the exhaust, filter, and bazzaz z-fi, but what they don't tell you is how smooth the bike is. the bike didn't have so much as a hiccup this weekend, having run 8 practice sessions and 4 races. the fueling was seamless, the quickshifter worked brilliantly, and the bike sounds bad ass.

the brakes were incredible, plain and simple. i was passing people on the brakes going into t1 like it was my job, deceling from about 165mph to 100mph or so in a very short distance. they were consistent, had no signs of fade whatsoever, had great initial bite (which i like) thanks to the vesrah pads, and were smooth and easy to modulate while trail braking. no fancy m/c needed here, just a good bleed job, fresh fluid, great lines, and great pads.

the suspension was just what one would expect from ohlins. it was set up with the proper spring rates not just for me, but for the bike as well, siince the k6/k7 600's like a heavier rear spring than most other bikes. we made a few small damping adjustments, but no geometry changes or preload changes were necessary. i set the ride heights as per mark rozema at markbilt racing, and they were pretty much spot on. the bike offered great feedback and damping, and was rock solid the entire weekend, handling like it was on rails the whole time. if i gave it gas mid corner, it would run right out to the edge of the track, and if i shut the gas off it would tighten up it's line, doing both of these things without any pumping or complaints. on the brakes hard into t1 it maintained it's composure, stayed steady, and didn't want to wrap itself up in knots when making the transition from t3 to t4, going from 130mph or so down to 70mph while flicking left to right and banging a downshift.

the tires were great as well, but you don't need a review on those from me, as they are the ama spec dunlop d211's. they had plenty of grip, and i only needed 2 sets this whole weekend.
 
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Discussion starter · #8 · (Edited)
yup, i have decided no paint. i am leaving it as is.

the bike ran perfectly all weekend, not a single issue whatsoever. check my edit above for reviews and how everything performed.
 
wow nice work on that bike! i wish i had the money to do that stuff and race on tracks. your sprocket setup...do you need to change your setup based off the kind of track you are racing on? does it help to run stock sprockets at times vs a -1/+2 setup based off how the track is designed? just curious about things like that.
 
awesome write up:cheers
 
Nice. :punk Glad you got it done.
 
Need a :jealous emoticon...

Good idea on the paint - you've got loads more experience then me when it comes to being on a bike and I would save myself the trouble of dealing with it, sure you have had more issues :D
 
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