5 ohms? I don't remember what manual says but I bet you did something wrong. I doubt it has such low resistance.

 

my manual says throttle closed it should b approx 1.1ohm, and throttle open aprox 4.3ohm. my tps is reading 5.2ohm open and closed, no change at any throttle position

 

The manual says 1.1 to 4.3 Kohms. You're off by a factor of 1000.

My concern is that you might be measuring the resistance between the wrong terminals. The resistance between two of them, not sure which - maybe the outermost two, will be constant while the resistance between any other two should vary with position.

 

i checked it exactly as the manual said to check it, following your theory i check the other terminals and got the 1.1 closed and 4.3 open. but the thing is thats the resistance between the outer most terminals, not the two terminals the manual says to check. is the manual wrong? or do i have the wrong TPS on my bike? or...?

 

You can figure that out by looking at the wires on the connector. The R and B/Br leads should connect to the terminals that always have the same resistance. The P/B lead connects to the other one. The only other issue is with regard to the two constant resistance terminals, which one gets the R lead and which one gets the B/Br. However, unless you've been fiddling with them, they ought to be in the correct configuration.

 

Ok, my bad, I was testing the wrong terminals.

Anyway I put the TPS back on the bike and adjusted it on the bike so that the resistance with the throttle closed was 1.1kohm and open was 4.3kohm. Problem is I ran out of adjustment before the TPS resistance was in spec. Right now the closest i can get it is 1.9kohm closed and 5.2kohm open.

 

There might be a part number on the TPS that you can check against the parts listing. Something's fishy if it has the correct resistances but you can't adjust it per the manual.

 

There was a number on the TPS but it didn't match any part numbers I could find. I don't think it was a part number, maybe a serial number. No other numbers on the TPS though.

With the TPS adjusted that way it would read low on the dash in dealer mode and the bike ran like it had an out of adjustment TPS. I re-adjusted so the - was in the middle (-C00) and it runs perfectly. But I still have the hot start problem.
After reading a bunch of threads on here and talking to a mechanic I decided to load test my battery (wich is brand new, almost a month old).
Ignition off the battery reads 13V cold. Ignition on 12.5V cold, hit the starter and it drops to 11.4-V cold. Is that right? I'm going to re-check it after I ride around to get the bike hot.
I couldn't find anything in the manual that tells me what a good battery should read when load tested.

 

If it is 11.4 volt running then you have charging issues. Should be low 13s at idle and 14.5V around 5k rpm. If it is during engine cranking then you're ok. The starter draws quite a bit of current for a brief time.

 

It's 11.4V when cranking. idles at 13.2V and 14.4V at about 5k rpm. So my battery and charging system are fine.
I'm slowly eliminating possible reasons for my hot start issue. I've checked all the sensors and they all checked out, aside from the odd TPS resistance...
When I'm having the problem the exhaust smells rather rich and it will occasionally back fire quite loudly lol so obviously its getting fuel, and the spark plugs look good, no fouling. So I have no reason to believe they are bad.

 

Have you crimped a line when putting the tank on ? How long has problem been happening for - ie bad batch of fuel ?? Could be an injector nozzle - especially, given you can smell fuel / get a bang...lots of possibles.

I have an 03 and if I don't ride it for a month for what ever reason - I will experience similar issues to what you were stating...but after an hour or so - it comes perfect again.

Si

 

the fuel line is fine, and it only does it when the bike is warm, and when it really hot outside the bike will cutt out all together and leave me stuck for 15-20 minutes b4 it will start up again. its been happening since i bought the bike in june. it gets worse with hotter weather. it was 104 today and the bike shut off on me while on my back from walmart. its not bad gas i fill my tank 2-3 times a week as this is my daily driver. the think i dont understand is if it was a bad injector, fuel pump, or spark plug(s), i would feel that when i get on it, the bike runs perfect, it just wont start when it warm and will shutt off when its really hot outside

 

Bad electrical connections tend to get worse with heat.

When it cuts out - do you lose your dash/lights/etc or does the motor simply stop running?

 

What's your warm idle speed?

 

warm idle is 1100-1200, perfectly smooth.

when the bike cuts out its just the motor that stops running. everything else stays on and works fine.

i smell gas from the exhaust when i try to start it and it will backfire occasionaly. i let the bike sit for 15-20 minutes and it fires right up.

 

Usually when they start dying when their hot is due to low idle speed. Have you replaced the plugs recently?

 

I replaced the plugs a few weeks ago and they looked fine. Still having the problem though.

 

The only thing I could think of is maybe the kickstand switch, or some wiring problem that's intermittent enough to kill the engine at idle, but will allow it to restart instantly when it's running at higher RPMs. How often does it happen?

 

It happens every time the bike is hot and is worse when its really hot outside.

I thought maybe vapor lock? Opened the gas cap but didn't hear any pressure release and the bike still would not start. Is it possible that it could b vapor locking in the fuel line or injector rail?
My mechanic said it could be running too lean since I have an after market pipe with no PC and that the leaner f/a ratio could be vaporizing before being injected... Sounded kinda sketchy to me because I've seen plenty of FI bikes use aftermarket pipes and no PC without any issues and I find it hard to believe that a FI motor could vapor lock that easily. What do you think?

 

Is this a california bike? What kind of coolant temps are you having?

 

Not a California bike, coolant temps are fine. It around 165-175 while cruising and has never gotten over 227 sitting at traffic lights.

 

Sounds like it's spark related if you smell the fuel while cranking.

It could be the coils themselves - have had similar issues with my car's coil-on-plug arrangement when hot. But then I'd expect say one or two to be bad not all of them.

1) Take off and clean the connectors on the ECU and the coils.
2) If you can swop coils with somebody.

 

Not vapor lock.

How about the vacuum hoses? If you have a small split, it could give you intermittent problems. But usually they'll drop the idle speed and sound like a tractor for a second or two before they die.

I guess it could be a sensor. If the cam or crank sensor misses a rotation, it could cause it to die, but it should throw a code if that happens too.

My gut is telling me that something is loose. Loose ground maybe? Check both ends of the negative battery cable.

 

My gut is telling me that something is loose. Loose ground maybe? Check both ends of the negative battery cable.

Good call. Check that and the ECU/coil connections

 

Ground cable is fine.
I did read on another forum that a guy with an 06 600 was having this same problem and he replaced his CMP sensor and that fixed it. So today I decided to re create my problem and check the CMP and CKP sensors while I'm having the problem. I went for a short ride, came back shut it off, tried to restart and it wouldn't fire. Tried a few more times and what do you know the FI light comes on, I flipped it into dealer mode and got -C11. CMP sensor.

SO! I check the CMP sensor resistance and it checked out within spec... Pulled it out and there was a little bit of crap on it, barely anything at all but I wiped it off and put it back in, and the bike started fine. Then I went for another test ride, got back and tried restarting the bike and it started right up, so I kept shutting it off and restarting to see if I could get it to fail. A couple times it struggled but eventually started. Is it possible that the CMP sensor could be intermittently failing?

Also, I noticed it was harder to start the bike while it was on its side stand, if I straightened it up or tilted it to the right it would start easier... Could be coincidence but I thought it was worth mentioning...

 

I think you've got a wiring issue. The wire bundles going to the ECU are pretty fragile.

Try this. Pull the ECU out of it's spot, but leave it connected. Start the bike and make sure there are no codes. Then start moving the wires around paying particular attention to the ones that connect to the cam sensor. If your ECU has been in and out multiple times, it's plausible that one of these wires has fatigued enough to break, or at least be damaged.

If you can triger the -C11 error code by pushing on the wires, then there's your answer.