Don't hit the switch until you figure out how to properly wire it :dunno

 

Its gotta be your switch or a hot wire near it being grounded

 

Your switch is probably not rated for the voltage/current you're sending through it.

 

That would burn the switch, not the fuse.

 

Not always. It would get hot, but ne necessarily hot enough to burn it up.

 

Ive had the switch wired correctly and working since i bought the bike 3 years ago. This is the first incident where just flipping the switch burns the ignition fuse. I also tried readjusting all the wires and electric taping the exposed areas of the wiring and then it didn't burn the fuse when i tested it. But as soon as it ran idle for more than 5 minutes and i flipped the switch, it shorted again.

 

Well if its a 5 amp fuse, a 20 amp switch and a 30 amp load then yeah.

If its a 25 amp fuse, a 5 amp switch and a 30 amp load then the switch will burn.

Without actual numbers there is no way to determine what is causing the fuse to blow. You have measure voltage drops across various parts of the system to find out where the load is coming from. Being that this system has worked in the past and is now causing problems I would believe that the problem lies in either the wiring or even the fan motor. It could be either a short to ground, or it could be a bad motor drawing excessive amperage.

 

Here is a few more pieces of info that might give someone an idea...

The regulator went out a while back and i thought it was the stator. I replaced the stator with an OEM replacement. Bike worked for a little bit and then finally died again. I pulled the regulator and the back of the plastic was burnt with a hole in it. I found out these bikes have regulator problems so i bought one thats not oem, but from an aftermarket company in which the heat sinks are about 40% deeper to hopefully cause cooling to be more efficient. When i tried to start the bike, it wouldnt turn over. The ignition fuse was blown. I replaced it and the bike turned over perfect. I didnt test the fan because i never thought it would even cause an issue. I then did the set valve disconnect mod and the bike still ran just the same. Neither time did i allow the bike to heat up all the way to 160 or so before attempting to actually ride it. Then when it idled long enough to where i was going to ride away, i turned the fan switch on because it was already at about 195. THATS when i noticed the conflict in the circuit because it blows the 10amp ignition fuse only when i turn that switch on once its warmed up over 150. Now like i said when i allow the bike to heat up to 220, the fan comes on no problem, no blown fuse. So by process of elimination im thinking somewhere in that fan switch assemble, some kind of insulation has worn off and causes a short when that part of the circuit is open. Am i on the right track by thinking i should pull off the fairing and trace all the wires in that entire fan assembly and switch, OR should i blame the aftermarket regulator i just installed though it seems to be pushing the right amount of amps for the rest of the system? Could it be im dealing with an Apollo 13 scenario where every little .1 amp matters? Thanks for the input guys

 

I re-read your first post. Are you tapping into ignition power for your fan switch? If so . . . dumb ass!

All you need to do it tap into the thermal fan switch with your switch. Turn your switch off, the thermal switch controls it. Turn on your switch and the bike thinks it's hot. Low voltage, low current system. Just rewire your switch. That's obviously where the problem is anyway.

 

I agree with this - I've wired manual fan switches in the past and all the thermal switch does that turns on the fan is senses low resistance (resistance goes down as the switch heats up) and at a certain threshold the ECU turns the fan on. There is a second sending unit that sends the temp to the dash for the needle/number.

All you have to do is tap in to both wires that run to the temperature SWITCH. When you close the switch it will drop resistance to 0 (or near 0, whatever the resistance of your switch is) and will cause the ECU to turn on the fan. When you open it back up - the thermal switch will continue to work and open/close the circuit as necessary during normal operation.

I've wired manual switches due to commuting in traffic and not having the ability to lane split (not legal here) often leaving me moving slow enough that the bike stays pretty hot due to lack of air flow but fast enough that I can't just shut it off and walk it forward.

You could also do it for other purposes obviously.

One good way to know if it's the fan itself, is start the bike up (don't use your fan switch) and just let the fan come on, on it's own. If it comes on and your fuse blows then it's not your wiring (most likely). If it comes on and the fuse blows, you have either a bad fan or something else wrong...

If you are somehow using ignition power through your switch, you've wired it wrong.

 

Its just interesting because with my old regulator it had no problem running the fan switch in parallel. I wired it a while ago and i cant remember how i did it but i basically had to pull some pins out of a little box coming from the fan wiring and replace the wires with the wires from the switch, therefore creating a parallel system. And like i said before, the fan comes on at 220 by itself, now, without popping the fuse. ONLY when i turn the switch does it blow. And this issue just started happening since ive installed the new regulator. The only thing i can think of is that maybe your right, maybe i am wired somehow to the ignition but i never tried wiring it to the ignition. Since i don't know a ton about wiring, i simply wired it through the fan relays in parallel. The regulator has one connector going to the stator, and one going to the harness. So is the thermal sensor wired separately to the ecu on a different circuit coming from the battery or is it actually somehow connected to the ignition circuit already?

 

Ok, well you wired your switch wrong if it's working on it's own but not when you flip your switch. Pull it, and do it right.

I don't know where the switch leads go into the ECU, just look up where the switch is itself and splice into it there, you'll probably end up with less wire that way anyhow... The way i did mine was I spliced my wire onto the stock wiring, and then added a connector onto them so that I could remove the switch if I wanted and wrap the connectors with tape in the future without having to re-do it all.

 

I see what your saying, and that makes sense. But the reason the wiring was done the way it was, is so that it would work in parallel. Like if for whatever reason you didn't remember to turn the switch when the bike got hot, it would just come on by itself. I put almost 20k on this bike after i did the install a couple years ago and have never had this problem until just now. Is it possible that when the regulator finally went out, it fried the insulation on a wire somewhere in the circuit that the fan is attached to, resulting in a path of least resistance when i open up that switch part of the circuit?? Been trying to understand circuits better so i know better how to look through all the wiring.

 

This is exactly how it will work if you wire it like I tell you to. You do NOT need to send voltage/power to the fan - just tell the ECU to turn it on by putting 0 resistance across the two wires going to the thermal switch.

When you do that, you will kick the fan on, and when you un-flick it - the ECU will retain control over it.

You're over-complicating this, before you butcher your wiring you might take this to somebody who knows what they're doing... Or simply find the thermal switch and tap into those two wires - one for each side of your switch.

 

Ok im starting to understand it now. So if i find the thermal switch and just basically rewire the switch into those wires, it will be working the way your explaining it. The only thing im worried about is that i had bought this fan switch as a kit. I think its whats called a "J box" or something like that in which i pulled out some pins out of a box and inserted the wires from this kit, thus creating a parallel circuit that the switch runs in. So now im going to have to trace the wiring back a bit and make sure by disconnecting the switch, im not in turn opening the circuit indefinitely.

 

Is there any way i can post some pics of my current wiring so you can point out my mistake. Ive been reading through my manual and trying to decipher the schematics. Im going to try and explain the wiring as best i can and see if any of it sounds off to you guys. Keep in mind this setup has been working no problem for 3 years now untill i just replaced my voltage regulator.

The fan relay box has 4 wires (2 orange and red, 1 orange and white, and 1 black) coming off it connecting to the main harness. With this kit, 3 of the four wires (1 orange and red, 1 orange and white, and 1 black) are extracted and replaced by their respective colored wires coming off the black box included in the kit.

The black box is where the 3 wires (1 red, 1 orange and white, and 1 black) from the fan switch are connected to. The orange and white wire from the switch couples with the orange and white wire now coming from the relay box and connects 2 to 1 to the old orange and white wire originally connected to the relay box. The black and the red wires coming from the switch go straight into the black box. Another black and an orange and red wire also come out of the black box and couple with their respective wires, now connected to the relay box, and couple 2 to 1 to the original respective wires originally connected to the relay box.

There is an additional black wire coming from the same port that the black wire out of the black box connected to the fan switch. This wire goes to a ground lead that is attached to the bolt that holds down the lower air box.

All of the connections are secure and lock into place and then are covered by electric tape. I have heard that the fan motor is already grounded. So could i possibly just get rid of this additional ground wire or is that the ground wire? It would all make more sense to me if this had happened right after i installed it but like i said i havent had any problems with it until just now. So all in all maybe the aftermarket regulator i installed is crap and i just need to stick with OEM?? Hope this helps thanks for the support!

 

The fan relay box has 4 wires (2 orange and red, 1 orange and white, and 1 black) coming off it connecting to the main harness. With this kit, 3 of the four wires (1 orange and red, 1 orange and white, and 1 black) are extracted and replaced by their respective colored wires coming off the black box included in the kit.

You do not want to be messing with the fan relay, what I've told you to do (numerous times) as well as others have told you - has absolutely NOTHING to do with the fan relay or the fan wiring. If you're touching any of this, you're in the wrong spot and you better leave it alone.

The black box is where the 3 wires (1 red, 1 orange and white, and 1 black) from the fan switch are connected to. The orange and white wire from the switch couples with the orange and white wire now coming from the relay box and connects 2 to 1 to the old orange and white wire originally connected to the relay box. The black and the red wires coming from the switch go straight into the black box. Another black and an orange and red wire also come out of the black box and couple with their respective wires, now connected to the relay box, and couple 2 to 1 to the original respective wires originally connected to the relay box.

Again, stay away from the fan wiring and the fan relay. What you want to mess with is the wiring between the thermal switch and the ECU - it's not directly connected to the fan or the fan relay.

There is an additional black wire coming from the same port that the black wire out of the black box connected to the fan switch. This wire goes to a ground lead that is attached to the bolt that holds down the lower air box.

No clue, if it isn't connected to the ECU on one end, and the thermal switch on the other - it's not even close to what you're wanting to modify.

All of the connections are secure and lock into place and then are covered by electric tape. I have heard that the fan motor is already grounded. So could i possibly just get rid of this additional ground wire or is that the ground wire? It would all make more sense to me if this had happened right after i installed it but like i said i havent had any problems with it until just now. So all in all maybe the aftermarket regulator i installed is crap and i just need to stick with OEM?? Hope this helps thanks for the support!

I don't care how much sense it makes to you, to be honest, you're fucking with your wiring and you're going to end up doing something bad (i.e. destroying your wiring, your fan, your fan relay, or your ECU).

Honestly man, at this point, you fail to seem to be able to follow even the most simple instructions... I would leave well enough fucking alone or don't come back here crying when you have strange electrical issues.

Seriously, find the thermal switch (look it up in a parts fiche, then find it on the bike) and tap into those *two* wires. If it has only *one* wire to it, then it is the thermocouple for the dash and will *not* trigger the fan to come on.

For fuck's sake, take a step back, take a break, read what you've been told numerous times - and then see if you get it. If not, you're going to end up butchering your wires or burning out expensive components.

I'm not going to offer you any more advice if you don't listen to what people f'cking tell you.

 

Wow ok... Im not 12yrs old im just trying to get a well versed idea on the issue before doing just that, fucking up the entire system. If i haven't gotten you off yet by saying thanks for the help, thanks for the help.. but not all of us are pro wiring techs. I will figure it out.

 

I'm not a pro either, but it's a simple concept.

When you are told what to do, and how to do it, numerous times and you ignore it - we are going to start treating you like a child. Children have trouble following simple directions, adults generally do not (except the dumb/stupid ones).