Graphite lock lubricant. Any auto parts store should have it. Spray it in the lock and work the key in and out, then rotate the key back and forth. Repeat. You're lock will start working like new again in no time.

 

That shield doesn't cover the hole when the key is out. Put a piece of masking tape over the hole when parking outside. Rain water washes the lubricant out of the lock over time. A little graphite spray every oil change will always keep your lock working smooth.

 

That shield doesn't cover the hole when the key is out...

Ok, I thought it was meant to slide across when the key is removed to stop dirt particles entering the barrel

Here's what my Honda barrel looks like, I thought the Suzuki barrel would have been the same

 

Perfect, Thanks!
I'll pick some up when I go out later

Hopefully I won't need to take anything apart
I'll add an update tonight

 

Update:

I went to the local locksmith but they didn't have any graphite powder. The guy in the shop said not to use graphite as the lock would get gunked up if the bike gets wet/washed. He told me to blast it with wd40 instead.

I tried another locksmith and they said the same thing about the graphite getting gunked up. They told me wd40 shouldn't be used in locks and recommended GT85 (a multipurpose lubricant and water displacer with ptfe) instead.

Should I use the GT85 I bought from them, or should I keep that for other jobs and buy some graphite powder online?

 

I have a K8 750 and when I take out the key, the "shield" does cover the barrel. It looks like one side is sticking. I would think that the GT 85 will be fine as it states:

"Drives out moisture from electrical systems"


Product Benefits

Loosens rusted parts
Lubricating and cleaning
Driving out moisture from electrical systems
Starting wet engines
Prevents squeaking
PTFE formula helps lubricate
Drives out moisture from electrical systems
Fast acting cleaner
Versatile and easy to use





I've used electrical cleaner similar to the GT85.

 

...It looks like one side is sticking...

Agreed.
I'm uncertain if it's just jammed on itself or if there's something caught in there which is stopping it from closing fully

Hopefully the GT85 will free it up.

I always was under the impression that the shield, assuming you mean the slotted, unilaterally dimpled plate, freely rotating over the lock barrel, was an anti-theft device, meant to prevent drilling out the lock, by freewheeling (if that is the correct term for "freely rotating") along with the drill bit. That's my own interpretation though, prompted by my initial assumption that my lock was just broken, after discovering the existence of this freely rotating plate, soon after getting my bike.

I think you're right about the 'plate' being an anti-theft device, but that's not the bit I'm having problems with

If you have a look at my photos you'll notice the key-slot in the second photograph is covered over.
There's a flap of metal underneath the metal plate/disc which closes the key-slot when the key is removed.....A bit like a letterbox flap some people have in their front door at home.

In the first photograph you'll notice the shield/flap remains partially retracted with the key removed

The shield/flap moves out of the way when I insert the key, and the lock is working fine now, but that shield/flap only closes partway when I remove the key - That's what i'm trying to fix

 

I always was under the impression that the shield, assuming you mean the slotted, unilaterally dimpled plate, freely rotating over the lock barrel, was an anti-theft device, meant to prevent drilling out the lock, by freewheeling (if that is the correct term for "freely rotating") along with the drill bit. That's my own interpretation though, prompted by my initial assumption that my lock was just broken, after discovering the existence of this freely rotating plate, soon after getting my bike.

 

I refer to it as a window or a door but, whatever you call it, it's important that it fully close. Otherwise crap will slowly accumulate inside until the lock won't turn. It's primary purpose is to protect the keyway but they discovered that a minor anti-theft feature can be achieved with a rotating design. I'm aware of the auxiliary alarm lock on old Corvettes where the lock was oriented horizontally. When first introduced, some bean counter thought they could save a penny by using a lock with no window. One year later the design was changed to one with a window because they were notorious for jamming. The issue will be much worse for a vertically oriented lock.

On later years the lock can be disassembled to permit flushing with WD40. But yours may not come apart. I suggest that you consider removing yours so that you can flush it while held upside down.

P.S. WD40 will evaporate leaving nothing behind. I'm a tad uncomfortable with GT85. Spray it on something and see how much residue is left and if it fully drys. I wouldn't use it if it doesn't dry.

 

...On later years the lock can be disassembled to permit flushing with WD40. But yours may not come apart. I suggest that you consider removing yours so that you can flush it while held upside down...

Do I need to remove any other parts if I end up having to remove the barrel, or is it just the security bolts holding the lock in place?

DO NOT USE GRAPHITE!! Blast it out with wd-40, clean it up, then lubricate with a silcone based lubricant. Graphite destroys locks.

Nowhere round here seems to sell graphite now, saying it gunks up the locks when people spray them with an aerosol later on.
I've sprayed the lock and it seems to be much smoother, but I haven't figured out that window/flap thing yet

...I don't think I've ever seen such a flap on my lock...Perhaps mine is jammed also.

Are you sure that what you're interpreting as a partially extended flap, isn't just part of the keyway seen behind the upper plate, that has rotated partly out of alignment when you removed the key?

I've been trying to find pictures of other peoples bikes to see if there actually is a problem with my lock. They all seem to have the flap completely extended at all times, so I think it could be an issue with the lock design (theres being fully exposed, and mine being partially exposed).....Obviously I could be wrong so I thought I'd ask on forum to see if anybody knew for sure

 

DO NOT USE GRAPHITE!! Blast it out with wd-40, clean it up, then lubricate with a silcone based lubricant. Graphite destroys locks.

 

"Do I need to remove any other parts if I end up having to remove the barrel, or is it just the security bolts holding the lock in place?"

That's all it was on my K6. Your K1 should be very similar, if not identical. But the screws have high strength thread-lock on them so it takes some oomph to break them loose. Make sure that the torx bit properly engages the screw. As previously said, I don't know if your switch disassembles. But check if a plate on the bottom of the switch is held in place by screws. You might have a clear path down the keyway if it comes off. Be careful if it does.

"slides to the side rather than hinges away"

There was a time when I knew what the mechanism was but I've forgotten. I think that there are little springs but the design details could vary. One spring would be associated with a window that rotates rather than slides. But it definitely is supposed to fully cover the keyway when the key is removed.

I've never had to use graphite but was surprised at the negative reaction here to what I thought was a standard method. Don't know about destroying locks but I can see where it would lead to things being gunked up if used in conjunction with a grease, etc.

 

I was going to disagree, and say they don't have them, but instead I took five mins to find some spare stuff.
Turns out the three ,or four different ignitions I have had just weren't working properly....in that regard.

 

Some searching indicates that the correct term is "shutter". They've been around forever but I'd never seen the rotating/anti-theft type till I bought my K6. Possibly there are some patents relating to that feature from around that time. But a lot of clever people have been thinking about such things for a long time, so I wouldn't be surprised if it's an old idea.

Here's a 1955 patent that's relevant. Note that it's discussed in terms of keeping dust, etc. out of the lock. It references things in the early 1900's.

 

Excellent info! Thanks Guys!

I found a photograph showing a bike with the shutter intact





It seems the locks used by Suzuki might be prone to the shutter becoming stuck - That's what everyone appears to be reporting at least.
I'll see if I can remove the lock and take it apart for inspection

I've managed to get the LHS security screw turning a little, but I'm having trouble accessing the RHS screw. I'm using a socket and a ratchet at the moment with the handlebars turned to try and make some room. Is that the best way to access the security screws?

 

All done, all fixed.....

 

All done, all fixed.....

And what was involved in the doing and fixing?

 

Thank you for the very comprehensive description of the process!

 

You're very welcome.

I usually come to the forum looking for help and guidance, but don't usually have the knowledge to help others in return.
It's nice to be able to help out where I can and pass on some information that may benefit others.

 

Two professional locksmiths have told you the same thing. (Don't use graphite) I can't understand why you are even asking this question on here. In saying that, Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

 

I asked on the forum because the locks are lubricated with graphite from the factory.
People on the forum have greater knowledge of bikes than locksmiths do, so I thought it was worth double checking...never any harm in that

:smile: