Get a service manual @ servicemanualsgsxr.com.

 

at what mileage... did Tensioner go bad....?

you must remove bolt at back of Tensioner first.. then spring before removing Tensioner body...very easy job.. :cheers

 

What makes you think that the CCT is bad? They don't typically fail, ecspecially at 12k on the clock

 

It has 15k on it now. I know its not supposed to fail out that early but its making that chattering noise that makes me think thats what it is. It could also be the valves though.
Ill record the noise here in a little bit and post it up so you guys can let me know what you think it is.

 

Heres a video of the noise.

 

faulty CCT sounds like a diesel motor at around 3500rpm,
If you going to replace it , first pull the cam cover and zip tie the chain to the cam sprockets or it could jump a tooth when you release the tensioner

 

i have listened to your video clip..
your Tensioner noise does not sound too bad to me... my video clip below.

i replaced mine at about the 8500 miles mark when i replaced my Tensioner noise was still some what there !.. so i added the ball spacer thats only on the k4 - k5 600 & 750 Tensioner.. the k5 k6-1000 does not have this
ball spacer..

part no.. ball 12839-35F00 - cost $3 yes ? i know some would say i should have not have done this ..crescent suzuki uk said it would do no harm it would just give the Tensioner spring a little more push... it has worked for me. bike has now done 12.700mls 2 hard bike trips to spain last year

hope this helps you out :cheers

 

I may try and tackle it tomorrow night. I'm really hoping I don't mess anything up. It seems simple enough just wish I had a more step by step process.

Wish me luck.

 

I may try and tackle it tomorrow night. I'm really hoping I don't mess anything up. It seems simple enough just wish I had a more step by step process.

Wish me luck.

picture of Tensioner at the back of engine block... rise fuel tank it is on throttle side of motor remove bolt numbered 2.. in picture first.....then remove spring it will just pull out ... then undo bolts numbered 3 .. when re fitting Tensioner body re fit bolt numbered.. 2 last to load spring ...easy job :cheers

 

Thanks Snowblind. That sounds pretty easy. Thats how I figured it would be. But then some of the others have said stuff about opening up the cam cover and zip tying the cam chain to the cam sprockets. I guess I'll go ahead and do that too.

 

yes some people have gone with opening up the cam cover and zip tying the cam chain to the cam sprockets... i did NOT... I had no problems..
i have done two or three before on different bikes ...all went ok

:cheers

 

Well I replaced the CCT and everything went fairly easy but I didn't undo bolt number 2 first and so I may have messed something up. It was fairly hard to get the new CCT in so I took off the part of the crank case cover for the starter and a bunch of stuff went everywhere. Finally I put everything back together and it went in okay.* So I went back to the CCT and when I put the two bolts (#3) and screwed it in it went in fine. I then tightened up boilt #2 and started the bike and it ran fine and I think the noise is gone. went in fine. I then tightened up boilt#2 and started the bike and it ran fine and I think the noise is gone

HERES THE PROBLEM!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtube_gdata_player&v=Ft0ijjWlY28


Now the bike is making that noise in the video that sounds like a I have a turbo or something. I found a similar video of a Honda VRF800 and the guy said it was because it had too much oil. I drained some oil to see if that helped anything but it didnt. I found a washer that I am sure came off the starter clutch. In the diagram, its part #5.
http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/ model_years/4184-suzuki-2006--gsx- r1000/assemblies/127923-starter-clutch

So I took it all back apart and put that washer where I seen it go in the diagram and I noticed I was missing the #4 washer next to #5. Could the reason its making the noise? I plan on finding a washer tomorrow and putting it back in there I just don't think this could be the issue. Thanks in advance for any help youn guys can give

 

It making that noise because it is probably too tight.

 

Well I loosened the CCT and its still making the noise.
I took everything back out for the starter clutch and found a washer and placed it where I was missing a washer and its still doing the same noise.
I think I just installed the CCT wrong or something.

Snowblind, if you could make a video on how to set the tensioner, that would be really really appreciated. I'm not riding my bike any because I'm afraid this noise is really effecting something, or scared it will effect something.

Thanks again.

 

There's no way to install the tensioner wrong if you save the bolt and spring for last. It's as simple as unbolt the whole assembly, then put it back in without the spring/bolt. Once the housing is bolted to the head, the drop the spring in there and put the bolt in. Not hard at all. Also, make sure that the geared rod is all the way in the housing when you go to bolt it on.

 

first bolt Tensioner body to back of engine block... make sure it is set to look the same as the picture below ratchet teeth back....before adding the spring & washer & bolt.

then add the spring & washer & bolt this will load & set Tensioner you will hear it click in position...as bolt is tightened
Tensioner is then.....set... now safe to start engine..

:cheers

 

Well I took it out and reinstalled it and it sounded a lot better.
That high pitch sound only happens at above 7k revs. I rode it all the way home from my moms which was 70+ miles and it ran fine. Nothing seems to be wrong with it.
Should I possibly go ahead and get the manual CCT from APE or do you guys think it would be okay just leaving it alone?

 

It will be fine as is.:cheers

 

Jeez, if you cant figure out an auto tensioner dont bother getting an adjustable one, you're just going to bend valves. Chances are your noise was just your chain becoming a little loose before the tensioner clicked into its next extention, this keeps the plunger from moving all the time and loosening the chain. The 05? generation zx6r's were really noisey untill it hit that next extension lock and boom, noise went away right at that point. You want some deflection in the chain just so you dont wear your guides out.

 

Yeah I didn't figure it would be a good idea to get the manual one. But theres tons of "how to's" for those so I assumed it would be a little easier.
The noise is gone now though so I think I'm just going to leave it alone. It runs fine also so I don't think there's anything to worry about.

 

Like i said the auto ones work great, they have a racheting system and a spring to push the plunger one more notch when the chain does wear enough to require it. The manual one you'd have to keep on the adjustment, if you jump more than two teeth you're pistons will hit your valves and then you need a head job, and not the good kind.