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SlangZA

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, I just want to thank you beforehand for reading the post. I would really appreciate any information or input as I am still quite novice and need some experienced input from you guys on this amazing forum.

I have been riding for just over a year but all smaller bikes and scooters (250cc and below). I recently invested in my first "dream bike". I live in South Africa and second hand GSXR's are hard to come by, I specifically wanted a 600 and not a 750, because in my mind I would be saving a little bit of fuel on my daily commute.

I searched and waited untill the perfect bike for me became available. a GSXR K1 600 with beautiful Corona fairings. I had the guy bring the bike to me and checked it out. the bike was a beauty and in pretty good shape. Knowing that its second hand and an older bike, it is bound to have some issues that would need addressing. So I argued the price down, and bought the bike from him.

I then decided that before I ride the bike anywhere, I would take it to a workshop nearby and have a major service done. Have all the fluids replaced, throttle bodies synced and the injectors cleaned, also added new brakes, and tyres. Wanted to be sure that the bike is OK before using it on a daily basis. After the major service that took 3 days, i got the bike back and started using it daily and loved it. But as you well know, you only REALLY start picking up on issues the more you use the bike, small things that start annoying you and things that make you concerned.
After the major service the garage told me that I would have to have the bike remapped. They suggested a place in a town near by with a dyno. The place is very expensive so I went to the suzuki dealership and asked them to just reset the map or do whatever they think is best for the meanwhile, untill i can afford to have the dyno done. The previous owner had a power commander on, so mapping was not good. The dealership did what they could and i got the bike back, I have been using it for the past few months.


Now here are the 4 issues that concern me and that i would appreciate feedback on.

1: on a cold start (if the bike has been standing for 6 or more hours) the bike idles quite rough and has a slight ticking sound comming from the engine, after the bike warms up for a minute or so,the ticking sound and rough idle goes away and smoothens out, is this normal?

2: At around 6000rpm the bike almost feels like it looses power a bit and the exhaust note sounds a bit different, almost like its not getting air into the engine. after about 7500rpm its fine again and powers up like mad. its just between around 6 and 7500rpm where it feels like its loosing power and struggling for air/fuel... The mechanics say this is purely due to the bad mapping, but I am now getting paranoid that it might be something else

3: once the bike is nicely warmed up, it idles and runs well, but I noticed that when I am going at a lower RPM and a lower gear, example 2500rpm and 2nd gear, the bike jerks a bit, the ride is choppy and jerky, same thing, the mechanics said that its mapping..... this happens in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear when I "cruise", i have to stay around 3000rpm to avoid the choppy/jerky ride....

4: there is a gap between the tank and the frame... is there any reason for this gap? I really only noticed it after wasing the bike the first time, and wondered if it is the norm to have this gap? or is there some kind of rubber or something that is supposed to fill it? the gap can be seen in the pic attached.


Thank you so much for reading all of this and any feedback will be greatly appreciated
 

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Well, several of your issues are likely due to poor mapping. I don't know how much price difference there would be between getting it tuned vs. buying a stock exhaust and disconnecting the pc. Maybe try and disconnect the PC which would put the bike back into stock map and see how that feels. I really can't comment on the gap as I am not too familiar with these year bikes but someone will chime in.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
thanks so much for the reply, the bike does not have a PC currently, I think that could be the issue and that could also be the reason the dyno people are wanting to charge me so much money, they are most likely planning on adding a pc to do the mapping properly? sorry I am so clueless with this. The bike has an aftermarket pipe and headers, so after the dealership reset the mapping, they said that the header/pipe combo needs mapping done and will cause some issues.
 
Here in the states, a custom dyno map will run $250-350 and a pc will run around maybe $250+ so I don't know how that compares with your pricing. Not knowing what price point you are at, a self tuning pc may work out cheaper but you would need to have a bung welded on your exhaust for the O2 sensor. I was under the impression that these early FI bike ecu's could not be flashed so no idea what the seller or dealership did to the bike, if anything. I would imagine you are just running the stock map with aftermarket headers and pipe. There are certainly members who know much more about this than I and hopefully will offer up advice.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
this is what the tuning place told me. Don't know what it entails, but i know that they make use of a dyno.

"yup we can assist, mapping charges are R2500.00 (around 250$) for an average cylinder map"
 
So no pc, likely running stock map, according to this thread the K1 600/750/1000 are compatible in exhaust or at least how I read it.

Interchangeable parts

So, found this stock exhaust for $194 or best offer. At least weigh your options with what knowledge I can provide?

1. Buy a pc and get custom tune
2. Get a self tuning pc
3. Buy an OEM exhaust, maybe sell your current exhaust

Used OEM 2001-03 Suzuki GSXR1000 GSXR 1000 Stock Exhaust system
 
this is what the tuning place told me. Don't know what it entails, but i know that they make use of a dyno.

"yup we can assist, mapping charges are R2500.00 (around 250$) for an average cylinder map"
First, you need to educate yourself on all this. Then you need to ask questions before you just hand over your money. $250 is comparable to the US but just a custom map. So either you are getting a smoking deal if that is for map and pc or...

ECU Hacking

Haven't looked into this much but what I have found, suggests that "flashing" is a fairly major deal. Even with late model ecu's, it can be difficult to find a shop that can flash a new map on ecu.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
yeah they just replied to me now saying that I would need to purchase a PC for them to be able to do the mapping. so the 250$ is just the mapping, finding a PC and buying one is my responsability before taking the bike to them. Issue now is, where the hell do I find a PC or even a stock exhaust in South Africa..... been searching online but with no success. Sigh
 
It's hard to tell from that pic but a large or uneven gap could mean the tank isn't seating correctly which could be due to a bent frame. Those are aftermarket fairings and I see the forks have been painted so the bike was likely crashed at some point is my guess.
 
That gen was notorious for tweaking the steering neck when crashed^^
 
By the way, regarding the OP's concerns:

1: on a cold start (if the bike has been standing for 6 or more hours) the bike idles quite rough and has a slight ticking sound comming from the engine, after the bike warms up for a minute or so,the ticking sound and rough idle goes away and smoothens out, is this normal?
It might be. If memory serves, these early K models had manually operated chokes. Are you engaging the choke when starting the engine cold, following the instructions in the owner's manual, or at least the received wisdom of the WWW?

2: At around 6000rpm the bike almost feels like it looses power a bit and the exhaust note sounds a bit different, almost like its not getting air into the engine. after about 7500rpm its fine again and powers up like mad. its just between around 6 and 7500rpm where it feels like its loosing power and struggling for air/fuel... The mechanics say this is purely due to the bad mapping, but I am now getting paranoid that it might be something else
Hard to say anything definite when talking about described sounds, but the engine noise (which is actually in large part induction noise from the airbox, as well as exhaust noise; consider for example that the engine is making quite a bit of noise even when the throttle is entirely closed, at least at higher engine speeds), - where was I? - oh, yes, well the engine noise will vary across the engine speed range due to resonance in the airbox and exhaust, changes in the secondary plate opening (if this model has secondaries), etc.

Of course there's no way to tell if your sound change is normal or not, although I do find it hard to believe that it will be due to mapping. Do you hear the same change when going down from above 7500 rpm to below 6000rpm with a completely closed throttle? If yes, it's likely not combustion noise that makes the difference. My advice would be to a ask a couple of more experienced riders, and if they find the noise change normal, not worry until further notice. I know it can be stressful, but if you fixate on each and every "funny" noise, you're in for much worse. Of course that doesn't mean you can ignore loud knocks that weren't there the day before, etc.

3: once the bike is nicely warmed up, it idles and runs well, but I noticed that when I am going at a lower RPM and a lower gear, example 2500rpm and 2nd gear, the bike jerks a bit, the ride is choppy and jerky, same thing, the mechanics said that its mapping..... this happens in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear when I "cruise", i have to stay around 3000rpm to avoid the choppy/jerky ride....
Bikes have a lot of transmission slack and are jerky, esp. at low rpm. Other problems may exist that may compound the issue. Search the forum for terms like "off-idle jerk", "throttle jerk", "herky-jerky", etc. for the details.

4: there is a gap between the tank and the frame... is there any reason for this gap? I really only noticed it after wasing the bike the first time, and wondered if it is the norm to have this gap? or is there some kind of rubber or something that is supposed to fill it? the gap can be seen in the pic attached.
Not sure about the gap (although I'd bet it's normal), but a way to investigate that sort of thing, is to locate parts diagrams, which can be found at online sites selling OEM parts, and see if you're missing any of the displayed parts.
 
So no pc, likely running stock map, according to this thread the K1 600/750/1000 are compatible in exhaust or at least how I read it.

Interchangeable parts

So, found this stock exhaust for $194 or best offer. At least weigh your options with what knowledge I can provide?

1. Buy a pc and get custom tune
2. Get a self tuning pc
3. Buy an OEM exhaust, maybe sell your current exhaust

Used OEM 2001-03 Suzuki GSXR1000 GSXR 1000 Stock Exhaust system
Sam he has a Power Commander . It's in his first post . OP can you post a bigger picture ? I can't figure out what exhaust you have on the bike it's not stock that's for sure .

Did the previous owner give you everything for the Power Commander because you can download generic maps from Dyno Jet and load them on your power commander for the short term .Or as mentioned you can remove the Power Commander and see how the bike runs without it .

OP the gap is normal between the tank and the frame .
 
Sam he has a Power Commander . It's in his first post . OP can you post a bigger picture ? I can't figure out what exhaust you have on the bike it's not stock that's for sure .

Did the previous owner give you everything for the Power Commander because you can download generic maps from Dyno Jet and load them on your power commander for the short term .Or as mentioned you can remove the Power Commander and see how the bike runs without it .

OP the gap is normal between the tank and the frame .
Yes he does but later says he doesn't and has to buy one before getting a tune.

thanks so much for the reply, the bike does not have a PC currently, I think that could be the issue and that could also be the reason the dyno people are wanting to charge me so much money, they are most likely planning on adding a pc to do the mapping properly? sorry I am so clueless with this. The bike has an aftermarket pipe and headers, so after the dealership reset the mapping, they said that the header/pipe combo needs mapping done and will cause some issues.
yeah they just replied to me now saying that I would need to purchase a PC for them to be able to do the mapping. so the 250$ is just the mapping, finding a PC and buying one is my responsability before taking the bike to them. Issue now is, where the hell do I find a PC or even a stock exhaust in South Africa..... been searching online but with no success. Sigh
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Just to be clear, the bike does not have a power commander installed, the previous owner HAD one installed but sold the bike to me with the power commander removed. Exhaust also has no name on it ahas leo vince headers..... as for the gap between the tank and the frame, its the exact same on the other side of the bike, i even measured it. its just under half an inch gap both sides of the tank, where it is supposed to meet the frame.... I have googled and found that some other 600 owners and even 750 owners, k1-k3 has the same gap or issue, but its completely random. some bikes have the tank really nicely fitted, and some have this REALLY irritating gap.... When I took it for the major service, they assured me that the gap is normal, I just dont like it to be honest. I am so put off by the gap that I am starting to considder selling the bike :(

I called the dealership that serviced the bike for the previous owner, before i bought the bike, for them to find out if the bike has been in and crashes. and they told me that the bike has been dropped, fairing cracked and they replaced the fairings themselves, but never any damage to the frame or motor.

The bike starts first time, every time, all gears are perfect, clutch is perfect and handling is amazing, its just the jerky ride on low rpm and the tank gap that are the main issues to me... then again, I got the bike for an absolute steal, so issues should be expected. I paid 2200 dollars for the bike.....
 

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Discussion starter · #20 ·
Seems like I finally found the cause of the "herky Jerky"

After having the throttle bodies synced, injectors cleaned, new plugs added and having 2 mechanics check it out.... I went to a company called "superbike Solutions". The guys there revved the bike once and told me that I have a dirty/faulty fuel pump. Opened the petrol cap, they have a clever little camera that can go into the tank, and it turns out that the previous owner had the tank recoated with a really cheap coating that has now corroded and flaked, and the tank is basically filthy, its almost like someone added a hand full of crap and threw it into the tank. Filter is completely clogged. Having them remove the tank and check the pump out, hopefully they can just clean out / service the pump, add a new filter and hopefully i dont need a new tank.... Will keep you posted, but I am pretty sure this was the issue
 
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