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I dont know what it is about the rear brakes. :dunno When pushing my bike once I noticed the rear rotor is warped. You can see the wobble in it when you push it slowly. Dont know how that is. And my rear brake doesnt get near the use the front brake does.
The bad part is that I clean the crap out of my rotors every time I have either wheel off.. :dunno I'd get another rotor.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Stopped at the dealership after work today...

$47 for the pistons and seal kit
$102 for OEM pads
$202 for the rotor

After those numbers I didn't even ask what they wanted for a caliper.

I got a PM from a member :)thumbup thanks if you see this) who has a rotor and caliper for cheap but I'm going to look locally first (don't have a paypal or anything).
 
Fuck that caliper. Do not reuse it. It's more than likely deformed from the heat. Get a used one off eBay and clean it well.
 
I interned at TRW brakes for a while. I doubt it's a good idea. Will forward to buddy that is still an imagineer there. Will get you feedback.
 
A couple years ago, my rear 'seized' up on me on my FJR1300. I was lucky to notice drag while pushing it.
It was actually the pedal that wasn't acuating freely. I'd push it and it would stay down.
Didn't fix it right away and a couple times, I forgot about it and when I stopped, the rear caliper / rotor were smoking hot.

I just removed the footpeg carrier to get the pedal out, cleaned / lubricated the pivot and it was back to new.

Little thing - big trouble. Easy to check, just push the pedal with your hand it see if it comes back up freely.
 
Ebay is your best friend and you don't absolutely need a paypal to use it. I bought a new rear caliper on there about 4 months ago, came with some decent pads in them too for $25.00 and rear rotors maybe another $25 or so. Don't rape yourself buying brand new oem parts.
 
Stopped at the dealership after work today...

$47 for the pistons and seal kit
$102 for OEM pads
$202 for the rotor

After those numbers I didn't even ask what they wanted for a caliper.

I got a PM from a member :)thumbup thanks if you see this) who has a rotor and caliper for cheap but I'm going to look locally first (don't have a paypal or anything).
Its nothing to set up a paypal. You dont have to use your bank account directly. Just use one of your debit or credit cards with them. And a really secure password for your account. You can always remove a card youve registered with them anytime.

So after you make your purchase and the payment has been processed and recieved by the seller, you can remove your card from your paypal account if your a bit paranoid about someone hacking the account and possibly getting it.
 
I interned at TRW brakes for a while. I doubt it's a good idea. Will forward to buddy that is still an imagineer there. Will get you feedback.

His response:

Wow! That is some impressive damage there.

Can he rebuild the caliper? Sure. Should he? probably not...

Calipers are designed to take a certain amount of torque loading over the life of the vehicle/bike. This is essentially the stress of applying the brakes to get the bike to decel at the max level possible from 100kph for a large number of applies (100,000 times or something like that). The design accommodates the force put into the caliper during this extreme loading. To a point, the design will also be looked at for heat absorption during these cycles. That is really a secondary check for the most part as the real concern is the torque loading.

That being said, what happened in this incident was probably not something the caliper manufacturer thought would occur. We truley never protect for extreme abuse of the brake system in the design. There are just too many possible scenarios that could play out and it would drive a huge, expensive, over-engineered caliper.

Looking back at the damage that occurred, I wouldn't rebuild it if it was my bike. I wouldn't take that personal risk that there could be something wrong with the caliper now. There is a ton of metal that could probably do an acceptable job of dissapating that heat after it melted through the pad material, most of the backplate, the piston boot and the piston....I can already see what I believe is some damage to the bottom of the bore on one half of the opposed piston caliper. I wouldn't reuse it based off of what I can already see the caliper has under gone, but also what you likely cannot see. That is specifically the affects of the extreme heat to the structural integrity of the caliper.

In any case, that is absolutely bat-shit crazy that his brake was dragging to the point all this went down and he didn't have a clue.

Imagineer? Isn't that what you are too? :lmao
Yeah, but not practicing. I'm fine talking about principals (and engines, my forte), but something like this, eh, I haven't imagineered in 4 years.
 
Ebay is your best friend and you don't absolutely need a paypal to use it. I bought a new rear caliper on there about 4 months ago, came with some decent pads in them too for $25.00 and rear rotors maybe another $25 or so. Don't rape yourself buying brand new oem parts.

:stupid
 
Went through that w/ my first gen PGT ! :lol



OP - You're lucky bud, glad the fire didn't spread and torch the rest of your bike.

:cheers
No doubt, the Probe Gt was notorious for rear pistons locking up. Great running car though, considering the brakes weren't locked up. :lol If I remember correctly mine was a 92, bought new.
 
wow don't go to the stealership and buy all OEM parts. Search around.
And paypal is awesome. That's all that I use when I order things online. It's really secure.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Yeah I wasn't planning on buying OEM unless I just went with the piston and seal kit and found a rotor cheap. After seeing the seal kit is like $40 OEM I could probably find a complete caliper used for cheaper than that. I just stopped in on my way home from work to check the seal kit price and ask if they had seen something like this before, which they hadn't.

I guess I'll have to open a Paypal.
 
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