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Yahtzee

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So my 2000 gixxer is having electrical problems. It was running strong for 3 months now, but the other day she wouldnt start. So i just thought maybe the battery died. So I pop started it and it started up, Well as i was driving and my dash started dimming and turns off then, just like when you turn the key to the on position" the tach winds and the electronics kick back in for a few then die off again. So I replaced the battery and she started up like a champ and ran perfectly again until THIS battery dies.

So its obviously an electrical problem right?

I wont lie i'm a noob to bikes and i dont want to think its the generator or another thing and be completely wrong and waste a few hundred.

Any help would be appreciated!
 
I strongly recommend you get a manual...it has tests for all the charging system stuff that you can do.
Some simple ones:
charge the battery up. then run the bike, check the voltage at the battery when idling. Should be over 14 volts.
If less, like 12 or under (seems pretty likely from your symptoms), then you've got a charging problem. first check all the connections. If they're good, then check the stator. Unplug the connector from the stator, check the resistance of all 3 wires to ground...should be infinite. Then check resistance between each pair of wires (3 checks), should be 0.2 to 0.9 ohms.
Then, with the connector still unplugged, check the voltage between each pair of stator wires with the engine running at 5000 rpm. (use the AC voltage range) Should be 65 volts.
If all above good, check the rectifier....need the manual for this....
good luck.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
So i got her running today, had to get it home from where she died. It started right up first time. The i pulled the gas tank off to get a better look at what i'll be doing this winter. Turns out my cable that is on the upper butterfly valve was snapped so my upper valves were stuck open. Obviously its not good.

I also am pulling an FI code, not sure which one it is exactly, but im assuming its something to do with that.

I did end up having to pop start it after 4 or 5 times of starting it back up. Drove it around, and she kept starting back up.

So am i still looking for the same problems?
 
I had my STV cable snap on me too, i think thats the one you are referring too. The C28 code is due to faulty throttle module where your STV cable attaches too, but my actual module was fine, its just it was stuck open just like yours was because of the cable. The actual cable itself is only like 12 bucks from the dealer for both. If i was you, i would replace both cables just to be sure.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
yeah thats what i did, it was like 20 some dollars for both cables, the actuater itself works fine just the cabels were snapped. The parts should be here within a week so lets hope that solves half of my problem
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Wasn't my stator or battery...

my main wiring harness cracked and the ground was touching the 1st wire for the stator... :wtf

i broke the rest of the plastic between them and taped them off and she runs fine....
 

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yeah i need a new battery, but i hooked it up to some jumpers today on my buddy's car while his was running and it was turning over, not very fast but it was turning over. i got a few small pops but it wasnt gonna start at all.
and even once its warmed up, i have to leave the choke on like half way to keep it idling at like 4k rpms.
 
yeah i need a new battery, but i hooked it up to some jumpers today on my buddy's car while his was running and it was turning over, not very fast but it was turning over. i got a few small pops but it wasnt gonna start at all.
and even once its warmed up, i have to leave the choke on like half way to keep it idling at like 4k rpms.

never,ever start a bike off a running car battery. way to much amps. did your problems in the other post start after this. that would explain alot.
 
never,ever start a bike off a running car battery. way to much amps. did your problems in the other post start after this. that would explain alot.
no they didtn start after this. its been the same problems since i first got the bike a few days ago.
i figure'd it might be too many amps but the battery is already fried.. and it wasnt on there for more than 10 seconds.
i have to get a damn manual..
it seems like it's runnig wayyyyy too rich or something because it wont even idle under like 3k rpms. and like i said, i have to leave the choke partially on.
and it sounds like its running weird, like its skipping whenever im not on the gas.
 
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