Yummy so Sweet I'm lusting for an AA performance kit
They are making kits for Gixxer k1 from 2000 on , I'm so down throw in a spacer and hang on 200 mph bike

 

Man that's gunna be a tight fit...cant wait to see more. I'm sure you've already hunted around and seen the other s/c GSXR's....they make some awesome power from some silly low boost numbers...
Si

 

Man that's gunna be a tight fit...

Yeah it is. I don't think there's going to be any way to keep everything completely concealed behind the bodywork. Fitting the inlet tubing and filter is also going to be a major pain, but I think I have an idea on how to do it.

 

i just got hard. cant wait to watch this build

 

Subscribed, so nice to read a well thought out post; grammar, spelling, punctuation.

But still, this is a badass build!! unk

 

Thanks. No matter what it is that I do, I try to do it the right way.

I have some big plans for this bike...

Im sure you've probably seen this but TTS in the UK do a S/C kit for GSXR1000's as well..this PDF may or may not be of any interest!

http://www.tts-performance.com/catalog/content/english/download/gsxr1000k5-7.pdf

Yep, I've seen it. I'll be doing things a bit differently than TTS, though.

 

Im sure you've probably seen this but TTS in the UK do a S/C kit for GSXR1000's as well..this PDF may or may not be of any interest!

http://www.tts-performance.com/catalog/content/english/download/gsxr1000k5-7.pdf

 

I will be watching this thread closely as well.:burnout

 

Mock-up time.

I had just finished making a set of custom pulleys for a guy (who owns a K5, coincidentally), so naturally I wanted to see how they'd look on my bike beforehand. I grabbed an old generic bracket that was laying around and proceeded to bolt it to the frame and the Rotrex; naturally the offset is all wrong, but at least I can grab some measurements off of it.

Clearly there are interference issues with the blower mounted in this position (primarily the inlet contacting the header tube and the compressor housing touching the engine case bosses), but as I said before, there's no other place to stick this thing. Now, if I was able to mount the blower closer to the engine, I could stick it further in and have more room for the inlet at the same time, but the bosses prevent that from happening.

You can actually see where the inlet was rubbing on the header -- that's no good. The only option here is for a little surgery.

Using a sawzall, a file, some sandpaper, and a little elbow grease, those bosses are now history. Much more room to play around now.

 

Subscribed

 

So whats the update? Is it boosting yet? Huh? Is it? Is it?

 

Sickkkk as hell. I want one. lol

 

:drool

 

updates?

 

subscribed. this is looking great so far.

 

No, not boosting yet. There's still a ton of work to be done.


Removed the stock airbox from the TB...

All that clutter associated with the PAIR valve will have to go.

Much better. I pulled the reed valves out so that the block-off plates I'll be making will seal up flat against the rubber gasket of the base plate. I also took this opportunity to swap out the stock plugs for some colder NGKs. Eventually that black plastic panel attached to the front of the head will have to get yanked, too, to allow clearance for the intake tubing.


Now that all the crucial dimensions of the starter cover have been digitized, the next step will be to make a better mock-up bracket for the supercharger and see how everything fits.

 

Since I know the output of the stock pump cannot support 250-260 crank hp, some upgrading will need to be done. I yanked the stock assembly to see if it's possible to shoehorn in a Walbro, but there's just absolutely no way.

The new style Mitsubishi pump is just about half the size of a regular pump, and without a completely new housing design (including a built-in filter), an in-tank Walbro is out of the question. The K6 and older bikes would not have this problem as they use the larger style pumps.

I do not want to go to an external pump, though, so for the moment I'm kinda stumped. I do have one idea that I'm going to try out, but it's going to take some careful experimentation; if it works, it will be a very elegant solution to this problem.

 

Since I know the output of the stock pump cannot support 250-260 crank hp, some upgrading will need to be done. I yanked the stock assembly to see if it's possible to shoehorn in a Walbro, but there's just absolutely no way.

Simply crimp the pressure regulator and you will be surprised at just what a stock pump is capable of.

 

good luck buddy and loving the pics and detail

 

Here in dominican rep. for some reason of the universe the K7 pumps have failed miserabily and my mechanic uses the K5 ones, since they are easy to find car pumps that fit. I think that mitsubishi lancer evo is the same or hondas.

If I where you I would use a external pump with a external presure regulator.

There is no other pump that fits like the K7 one.... they are small maybe that is the reason they are failing like that.

 

I wasn't aware of K7 pump failures. I have read of a few cases where the pickup filter became clogged over time and lead to poor performance, but nothing in particular was about the pumps themselves. What kind of failures were seen? Were the actual causes of failure ever determined?

 

you ride the bike and it simply lost performance, gradualy. until the problem became more aparent, at first was in hi load conditions.

the filter could be clean.... simply the pump itself was tired if you could say that word.

I think that people that run the bike on low fuel all the time (hi heat) and also the size of the pump fisicaly does not help.

The K7 was rated a bit more than the K5 and lighter but I think it came with a very negative price.... remember we ride here all the time, all year.

 

It has nothing to do with the pump and everything to do with the filter. Unfortunately by the time you realise the filter needs changing it is too late and it has backed up and blocked the rest of the pump also.

We have never been able to get a pump working as well after filter problems as it did before.

Either check regularly or just get another K7 pump from eBay, they are fairly cheap.

 

Gotcha. Thanks for the input. I want to run some tests on the stock pump to check on things like the temperature at various pressures and voltages, and then compare it to a Walbro. The older style pump housing always kept part of the pump submerged, but the newer style housing has a flat bottom and, as you said, could lead to much higher operating temps (and premature wear) if the gas is run down all the way.

 

Hey Toro, the older style pump is lower down but the well on the mounting plate basically only serves as a windage baffle and the pump is still not submerged when near empty. The filter sock strainer sits in the well.

The later model ones have a built in windage baffle in the housing further up so they don't need the well in the bottom plate.

But you are right that the pump motor is actually a bit higher so stays submerged less overall than the earlier ones.

I think MPP12 or someone else said it already. The older pumps should have the same base plate dimensions and bolt pattern. So you may be able to retrofit the Walbro to that assembly and run it in the later model tank.

For a real hi tech configuration it may be possible to modify the starter assembly and gears to provide the drive and run the blower in behind the engine near the throttle body. A lot of work cutting gears and doing starter modifications.

Nice work. :cheers

 

Just put a K5 pump... more reliable.
you need to put the float in a diferent position in order to work.

 

Update?

 

INTERESTING build.

With where the supercharger has to be placed, you could have went with a really, nice, small turbocharger and not worried about heat soaking the living hell out of compressor side.

A centi super will come up a lot more controllable, but one thing you're going to have to keep in consideration is the amount of revs versus the pulley you're going to be running.

:lol

Not to mention the amount of cyl pressure a supercharger adds versus a turbo. With a smaller turbo you probably could have ran a non intercooled set up, been reliable, and made the power you are aiming for at a lot safer cyl pressures. Superchargers make some SERIOUS heat.

Granted this isn't a roots style blower, but still, I take it a uber rich AFR will be your means of intercooling or are you aiming to run an air-air set up?

:lol not to mention a by-pass system to keep surge under control.

Very interested.

Good luck.

 

Steddy, this is not my first Rotrex-equipped bike. I've been personally running my stock-internal, non-intercooled, pump-gas powered VFR on 10.5psi since '07 without a single issue to speak of. As you said, tuning is key, but the boost curve of a centrifugal supercharger is just about as good as you can get for running safely on pump gas. This bike won't be pushing that amount of boost, but I do plan on it maxing out the C15-60.

I will be utilizing a vacuum operated Bosch bypass valve to limit surge. To tame the exhaust heat, I plan on wrapping the entire unit with Thermotec shielding, and also plan on running a separate oil cooler for the Rotrex itself.

You just cannot beat the tuning benefits and controllability that a supercharger provides, and though it can be tricky to implement, I love the challenge (and, of course, the end result).

 

:twothumbs

Hey I wasn't a doubter by any stretch of the imagination...more curious than anything. Forced induction on a motorcycle engine isn't overly common, unless the thing is a straight drag bike USUALLY.

Can't wait to see the finished project

 

There is a bosch that is closer to drop in fit ,
info here http://www.suzukihayabusa.org/forum/index.php?topic=144442.0

With a fairly good filter on my 08 busa i still could only get 300hp of fuel flow at the 65 psi base pressure i needed to start with, i'm going to revisit the intank pump idea but remove the filter and build a 3/8 stainless hardline to replace the filter and run an external filter and reg

 

Thanks for the info Maj. That Bosch pump is still the size of the older design, though -- the K7 & K8 pump is an entirely different animal. I realize I can replace the housing with one from an earlier bike, but my goal is to use as many of the original parts as possible.

 

but my goal is to use as many of the original parts as possible.

Hi Toro,now that you mentioned it,are you are going to use ecueditor to flash the stock ECU since it can control fuel vs boost,retard the timing etc etc?

Keep up the good work! :cheers