5. Loosen the screw. DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT remove the screw. I have never done so, but I can't imagine it's fun. And probably a pain in the ass if you drop it down in the bike. It only needs to be slightly loosened.

6. In the next picture, you can see the TPS (the black piece behind the screw. You can see the gold ring on it in the picture). Movie this piece up or down will move the dash on your gauge cluster. Up moves the dash up, down moves the dash down. Again I make it to where my dash is in the middle. It doesn't take much to move it, just push it with your fingers.

7. Tighten the screw back up. Your done.
TAKE NOTE:

Please note that in order to check codes if you are getting an FI light, you bridge the connection with the paperclip and instead of seeing -C00, you will see the code. Below is a list of the codes pulled right from the manual.

 

Awesome post, PM the mods and ask for it to be a sticky.

 

haha, okay. I'm not sure I'm "sticky worthy"... but I'll PM them.

 

Bookmarked. Great how to. Man, you on a roll this week huh?

 

haha! Yeah... been doing a few mods to the bike. My spiegler lines will be in this coming week so I'll have that how to up this week/weekend.

And one day, ONE DAY, I'm going to install that god damn full yosh r55 and pcv + autotune sitting in my garage!

To be honest, it started out snapping the pics and doing the writeups just for myself, so I can have an easy lookback when I do them again... then it was suggested to post em up, so here they are.

BTW I didn't even know you were on GDC... I'm a junkie myself... assfaultjunkies, with Brandon.

Nice seeing you on other forums haha!

 

yup, Brandon is good peeps.

 

Good info!

 

Good info indeed but have a question,
yesterday morning a few friends and I went riding, a few miles into the trip the little red light came on and flashed between F1 and the temperture. Pulled over shut it off got out the book, found nothing started it up and no light no flashing F1??? WTF!!
It was damp and cool when it came on. we finshed the ride after 230 miles nothing.
What could it have been. Didnt see F1 code in the previous posts or the book.
Thanks.

 

I just adjusted mine last week using the another guide found on a different gixxer forum, this one is better written. Sticky this shit.

 

Awesome thread.........................keep 'em coming!!!:cheers

 

Will do

My spielger brake lines should be in this week... excited to get those bad boys on... should be a fun write-up as well.

Then my full yosh r-55 + pcv + autotune.

After that I'm not sure if I have anything left, maybe I'll just do smaller things like tire changes, oil changes, etc. as I do them... lots of oil changes up on the boards though.

Brake pads, rotors, guess I got those as well.... <sighs>.... this shit is an endless money pit!

Thank god I love riding.

 

Noob here, what's the intended purpose for this mod.?

 

Well none of it is really a "mod".

The TPS adjusts your "throttle position sensor"... to dumb it down, if your feeling jerks as you ease off and ease on the throttle, it's probably time to adjust it.... having the left dash in the middle of the C00 like "-C00" is per specs.

The paperclip trip is to save you like $90 to have suzuki read a code off your bike if you are throwing any errors.

It short circuits the wires and puts you in "dealer mode" which will allow you to read any codes if you are showing an FI light.... or it will allow you to see the setting of your TPS.

Without the FI light on (if you are code free) you will see -C00 if your tps is normal, or the dash will be at the bottom or the top if your tps is off.

I hope that makes sense haha... tried to keep it very simple.

Anyways, it's more of "maintenance" than it is a mod.

 

The only part I'm not getting is the dash part where you said,
"You want the dash on the left to be in the middle, NOT the top or bottom. Some people like to get the TPS to where the dash bounces back and forth between the top and middle..."

 

Okay...

You want the screen to read:

-C00

That is per the manual.

Some people like the dash to be at the top of the "C". But to make sure it's not to far up, they get it to where the dash kind of "bounces" between the middle and the top on your gauge cluster.

Then they tap the tps adjuster a tad to where it' just stays at the top, but this assure them it's not adjusted to far.... then they tighten the screw back down.

Make sense?

I mean the adjuster that you are moving, that black thing behind the screw, moves a lot. Lets say it was knotched out from 0-33

0-11 = dash on bottom
12-22 = dash in middle
23-33 = dash on top.

Say factory setting is 18... the dash would fall in the middle. Some people want it at the top, so they want it at 23.... but if they just crank the tps adjuster all the way, it'd be at 33, but still in the top... so to assure it's more at 23... they allow the dash to bounce between middle and top.

I dunno... easiest way I can think to explain it.

Some folks feel that with the dash "JUST" to the top mark.... it gives them more responsiveness. I've tried both, don't notice a difference, so I keep it in the middle.

 

nice write up!!!!
but i dont understand why reason to adjust the TPS!!im really feel stooped now!!

 

>????

 

thanks i get it!!!

 

Can anyone tell me what effect a PCV (+autotune) will have on the TPS reading and the need to do this maintenance.

What i'm wondering is:
If I calibrate my TPS via the PCV software, do I still need to do this mod?
If I put my bike in dealer mode to check the TPS position, does the PCV effect the position displayed on my bike's gauge (ie: if my bike reads _C00, will re-calibrating my TPS via the PCV software help bring it up to -C00) ?

Since I'm getting the herky/jerky with a PCV+autotune, I'm wondering what to start fiddling with.

thx in advance

 

I have a K8 600 and I have a C40. Not a good sign. Since it means the $782 sensor is throwing a code. I have noticed my "-" is at the top. I think if I adjust it to the middle it might fix my ISC Valve Code. I am hoping so..

 

Super write up... thanks man

 

I just adjusted my TPS today, because the dash was at the bottom, although my bike was not doing herky jerky. So, I didn't really noticed much of a difference, if any, after the adjustment. Perhaps because my throttle was smooth to begin with.

Thanks! Almost, pretty good write up. However, there's a couple of corrections.
1. The tank does not need to be proped up to locate the coupler. Only need to remove the seat.
2. Per Suzuki Service Manual, warm up the engine and keep it idling (pg. 1C-4). Then, using a mode select switch (or solid copper wire about 22? gage or home made switch), bridge the two terminals you mentioned.

Hope this helps.

 

Isn't this whole right up avoidable, if you have a pcv and adjust the tps through the powercommander software ?

 

Don't think so, because the TPS adjustment is more of a "hardware adjustment" than "software"... if you get what I mean.

 

helpful

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jH4TeoCFKGc

 

Nice!

 

my bike is displaying a code rather than C00, I am not concerned about the code it's throwing bc I know what it is so I am not worried about that...my question is; how can I skip past that code and display the C00 like it should read so I can adjust my TPS?

HELP PLEASE!

 

you can adjust your tps even if a code ais flashing the tps is the little - on the left of the c if the dash is on the bottom like _ or on top then you need to adjust it to the middle.

the FI codes that come on need to be checked out. what codes are you receiving.

 

Good info on the "-" line! ...anyway, I did have the C28 code, but tore it apart and re-soldered the circuit board and now reading -C00 as it should, thanks for the help bud

 

cool glad everything worked out

 

I can't see any of the photo's in this post. Not sure why that is.

Would like to see them to help me through it.

Any thoughts?