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How much brake fade is normal?

770 views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  mlongo99  
#1 ·
I'm doing trackdays with increasing regularity and along with tires I've upgraded my braking system. I was thinking that brake fade would be pretty much eliminated with galfer pads & lines plus some 5.1 brake fluid. But I've found that there is still a significant amount of fade after just a few laps out here at Firebird.
The hardest braking is coming off the straight into a tight lefthander. I have to scrub about 80 mph for corner entry speed. By the end of the session the brake lever is very spongy and needs to be pulled back about half way to the grip to achieve the same stopping power I would have in the first lap or two.
I also have bled my brakes before each of my last two trackdays.

Does this sound normal?
Any suggestions?
 
#2 ·
I haven't used 5.1 fluid, but I do use Silkolene Pro-Race stuff and have had very good luck.

How new are the pads? I have found once they are about 1/2 thickness they overheat pretty easily. Also some pads tend to warp the backing plates causing a spongy lever.

How does the lever feel before you start the day? Its possible you just have some air still in the lines.

-Nick
 
#3 ·
Oh and as for how much is normal-well I pretty much never get fade and I am generally 4-6 seconds off lap record pace at the tracks I go to.. I use Carbone Lorraine pads and they seem to not even get fade even when worn almost all the way down (I personally don't trust them to this point).

I think the fluid makes a big difference. I have tried many different brake fluids but have only had the best of luck with the Silkolene stuff.

What bike is this on? I know some of the GSXR's were really prone to overheating the calipers.
 
#4 ·
The pads only have two trackdays on them. I bedded them in on the street.

When the day begins the lever is quite firm. Just take up the slack on the return spring and you have instant stopping power and great feel. Like on the street just a touch from one finger is all you ever need.

AFA air in the line I wouldn't think so. A mechanic friend of mine and I bled them the first time with one of those pumps. We did it thoroughly and put a lot of fluid through them to make sure that there wasn't any air left.
The second time I bled them I just used a wrench and some tube by myself. See I'd had a bit of a get off the previous trackday so I wanted to be sure air from the reservoir didn't get into the lines.

Anyway I am gonna bleed them again cause if I'm boiling the fluid there's air in them now.

Could it be possible that I'm just abusing the shit out of the brakes? I do out brake everyone else.... Maybe I'm just being stupid and overdoing it.
 
#5 ·
Yeah, it may be a riding style thing. I tend to brake a bit early, but not as hard. This helps passing on the brakes because someone who flies in and clamps down on the brakes as hard as possible won't be as much in control as me, so I then can slip by just by releasing the brakes a bit.
 
#6 ·
You might want to try the Motul rf600 brake fluid, it has a fairly high wet, and dry boiling point. Castoroil makes the best brake fluid, but it's $75.00 per liter, and on back order. The Motul is about 15.00 a pint, and can be bought at ant bike shop / dealer...Just make sure you ALL the old fluid out.
It's best to dismount your calipers, to get the fluid out of them, as bleeding won't remove all the fluid.
 
#7 ·
I used the Motul but I was getting fade with it, but when I swapped to the silkolene I never had it again. I have never had to do some weird ritual to get all the bubbles out and all that crap-I just flush it through a couple times a season.
 
#9 ·
I had Galfer lines bled twice, Galfer sintered pads, and still after 6-8 laps the lever would almost come to the bar when the lever adjust was on the #1 setting (farthest out.).

I moved to Galfer Wave rotors and only had minimal fade since. Even on a 30 minute endurance or 20 lap race.
 
#11 ·
The pads I'm using are :
"Galfer Sintered HH Brake Pads
The 1396 compound is a new sintered bronzed base material that includes graphite and advance ceramics. It will provide instant powerful controlled braking force at any speed or temperature, rainy or dry weather. Great lasting power. "

"Fade free, long lasting, superior sensitivity, and incredible braking power. "

And the fluid I'm using is Motul 5.1.

I'm thinking I'll try a different fluid. I just can't justify $500 for some wave rotors (as awesome as that would be). If that doesn't work I'll have to make some adjustments to my techniques.
 
#12 ·
Hammer 4 said:
So does the temp of the brake fluid.
Very true. Look for fluids with wet boiling points of about 400deg F or higher, which is well above the minimum requirement to be classified as DOT4.

sockethead said:
The pads I'm using are :
Galfer Sintered HH Brake Pads
And the fluid I'm using is Motul 5.1.

I'm thinking I'll try a different fluid. I just can't justify $500 for some wave rotors (as awesome as that would be). If that doesn't work I'll have to make some adjustments to my techniques.
Ditch the Motul 5.1. It's ok, with a wet boiling point of 365. I've been using Motul RBF600, which has a WBP of 420. I would think your pads should be fine though.