You need a dealer mode switch so that you can determine what the FI code was. It should be possible to route the switch leads so that you can turn it on without turning the ignition off. My fan is quiet enough that I can't hear it when the engine it running. It's also hard to see when it's running so I got a white marker and made every third blade white (of nine total). You could test the fan per the service manual. But fans are fairly robust. You could also check the fan relay but first check if it's the same as the fuel pump relay. If so, just swap them and see what happens. Yours might have a screwy feature like mine, namely that the fan operates for 5 seconds when the temperature arrives each at 122, 158, and 194 °F if the RPM is above 4,000 r/min. Check your service manual for this. It will be in the ECT section. If so, let it warm up while idling and when the temp goes above 122, rev the engine above 4000 RPM while watching the fan. You need to pay close attention as it won't repeat, i.e. you'll have to go to the next higher temp to check again. You don't have to do it exactly at 122. Once above 122, the 5 second operation will be "saved" until the RPM goes above 4000.

 

Ok most definitely. Thanks for the detailed advice and yes sir I have a way to check the code I had learned the paperclip trick. I have a white marker and definitely will be trying what you pointed out hopefully tonight if not tomorrow

 

The paperclip will require that you either leave it in dealer mode, not a good idea if doing so causes the temp display to be obscured, or shut it down to take the seat off to connect the paperclip. A real dealer mode switch doesn't cost that much and, if properly routed, will allow you to turn it on & off without turning the ignition off, etc. Many FI codes are cleared when the ignition is turned off.

 

Ok where can I find one?

 

^Ebay or any Suzuki dealer. You need a six pin type, pn 09930-82720. The Suzuki switch is as cheap as $22.50 but someone in France is making them for a bit over $17 shipped. I like lighted switches so I made my own.

 

So upon inspecting I found that the coolant was extremely low. Didn’t find any leaks though

 

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radiator fan bypass on off switch

CoolAIR AD Manual Radiator Fan Switch RFS-005

The CoolAIR AD Manual Radiator Fan Switch by SmartMoto allows the manual activation of the radiator fan. This allows you to keep the engine temperature low when you ride at low speeds, waiting in traffic or in any other prolonged idle operation.There are a lot DIY mods out there that allow you to mo

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Dealer mode

Suzuki Dealer Mode Switch 6-pin DMT-001

The Suzuki Dealer Mode Switch by SmartMoto enables the Dealer Mode on Suzuki Fi motorcycles.This switch fits newer Suzuki FI models (2004-on) that feature the 6(six) pin connector. Reference Suzuki OEM part no: 09930-82720 The Dealer Mode allows you to access the Fi error codes, troubleshoot Fi pr

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So an update. I ran the bike at idle and the coolant partially went back into the reservoir. Fan came on at 220 and brought the temp down to 210. It never went over 220. Now I’m puzzled. Took it for a spin. Ran like it should. It only went up to 230 that one time and cut off with the fi light a few days ago. The radiator is full. Coolant is the blue it normally is nothing milky. Possible that it just needs a flush?

 

With the reservoir that low, you're probably going to get air in the system. On the 1000's there's a bleed screw on the thermostat housing to purge air and a procedure in the service manual for purging air. I gather that 600/750 don't have the bleed screw but don't know about their service manual procedures. Did you check? Once air gets in the head, it takes a while to get out - at least on the 1000's.

A 230 °F temperature won't trigger a FI code and red LED. Something else was going on. On my K6 the red LED won't come on until 248 °F when a flashing thermometer icon also appears. Even then there won't be a FI code.

You'll have to pay attention to what's going on. There might be a coolant leak at the water pump or head gasket. But aside from that, you really need the FI code. If you know someone with SDS, the code might be retrievable.