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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Not too long after my last post, I injured myself (not seriously), ignored the issue for a few months and have been out of commission for the summer as a result. Just now starting to get back to normal. Unfortunately, this meant I have missed the 2023 season. I am, however, planning to be ready for spring 2024. This also means I have more time and am planning several changes to my setup.

Everything I sent out for machining and order has been received. No real hiccups. The quick access clutch cover did take longer than expected (4 months) but glad to have it. To my knowledge, Warp Speed Racing is your only option for this thing so if you're looking for one, he's the guy you want to contact.
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For those who are curious, this is what is meant by breaking into the oil galley when boring to make clearance for the oversized piston sleeves. A little epoxy solves the issue but you then are required to run a top end oiler. I have also seen someone cut out this area and epoxy a brass tube in there but not the direction I wanted to go.
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So what's new for 2024? One of the biggest challenges I've come across is booking some dyno time. Simply put, if you're running carbs, no one will even book you in for a baseline run (in the Northeast anyways). No one wants to deal with carbs, even if you are going to do all the tune work. Also, I'm not too stoked about having to find a carb/jet setup that works for both all motor and nitrous. I've spent quite a bit of time researching fuel injection conversions and what's required to do it well for race applications. After considering what's involved and the pros and cons, I've decided to convert over. I'll be running 01/02 GSXR 1000 throttle bodies (42mm) and powering it all with a Maxxecu Race H2O engine management system. What won me over is how powerful the ecu is. It does EVERYTHING imaginable and does it well. It will not only do the basics (control ignition, fuel, etc.), but it's also a progressive nitrous and boost controller in addition to being a robust data logger. It even offers an app to run virtual dash with any android device. In the long run, it's the way to go. I'm going to fully document the process in detail so the next guy will have an easier time. There's more detail, but I'll save that for a post in the future.

Other changes: Moving to a DME swing arm (uses a Gen 2 Hayabusa rear wheel assembly), CBR 900 front wheel setup (smaller diameter which will allow me to use offset triple clamps), Catalyst 3/4 Hayabusa turbo upper (way more aerodynamic), aluminum 1.5 quart fuel cell (have another tank I'm going to hollow out - the NOS tank will move over to my track bike), and a bunch of smaller changes.
 
Not too long after my last post, I injured myself (not seriously), ignored the issue for a few months and have been out of commission for the summer as a result. Just now starting to get back to normal. Unfortunately, this meant I have missed the 2023 season. I am, however, planning to be ready for spring 2024. This also means I have more time and am planning several changes to my setup.

Everything I sent out for machining and order has been received. No real hiccups. The quick access clutch cover did take longer than expected (4 months) but glad to have it. To my knowledge, Warp Speed Racing is your only option for this thing so if you're looking for one, he's the guy you want to contact.
View attachment 588146
For those who are curious, this is what is meant by breaking into the oil galley when boring to make clearance for the oversized piston sleeves. A little epoxy solves the issue but you then are required to run a top end oiler. I have also seen someone cut out this area and epoxy a brass tube in there but not the direction I wanted to go.
View attachment 588147
So what's new for 2024? One of the biggest challenges I've come across is booking some dyno time. Simply put, if you're running carbs, no one will even book you in for a baseline run (in the Northeast anyways). No one wants to deal with carbs, even if you are going to do all the tune work. Also, I'm not too stoked about having to find a carb/jet setup that works for both all motor and nitrous. I've spent quite a bit of time researching fuel injection conversions and what's required to do it well for race applications. After considering what's involved and the pros and cons, I've decided to convert over. I'll be running 01/02 GSXR 1000 throttle bodies (42mm) and powering it all with a Maxxecu Race H2O engine management system. What won me over is how powerful the ecu is. It does EVERYTHING imaginable and does it well. It will not only do the basics (control ignition, fuel, etc.), but it's also a progressive nitrous and boost controller in addition to being a robust data logger. It even offers an app to run virtual dash with any android device. In the long run, it's the way to go. I'm going to fully document the process in detail so the next guy will have an easier time. There's more detail, but I'll save that for a post in the future.

Other changes: Moving to a DME swing arm (uses a Gen 2 Hayabusa rear wheel assembly), CBR 900 front wheel setup (smaller diameter which will allow me to use offset triple clamps), Catalyst 3/4 Hayabusa turbo upper (way more aerodynamic), aluminum 1.5 quart fuel cell (have another tank I'm going to hollow out - the NOS tank will move over to my track bike), and a bunch of smaller changes.
Poss Dyno - call Coleman Powersports in VA and speak to Rick Beggs .. Motorcycle Mall in NJ is good too
 
+1 on speaking with Rick…one of the few genuinely good guys in the business and knows so much from these oil cooled beasts up to and including current makes, especially when it comes to the best bang for the buck as proven by his extensive dyno experience.

Rick is at the Woodbridge location, when you look it up.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I've spent quite a bit of time researching fuel injection conversions and what's required to do it well for race applications. After considering what's involved and the pros and cons, I've decided to convert over. I'll be running 01/02 GSXR 1000 throttle bodies (42mm) and powering it all with a Maxxecu Race H2O engine management system. What won me over is how powerful the ecu is. It does EVERYTHING imaginable and does it well. It will not only do the basics (control ignition, fuel, etc.), but it's also a progressive nitrous and boost controller in addition to being a robust data logger. It even offers an app to run virtual dash with any android device. In the long run, it's the way to go. I'm going to fully document the process in detail so the next guy will have an easier time. There's more detail, but I'll save that for a post in the future.
^^^^^^ This is what I am very interested in. I researched this quite a bit a few years back, as it's basically the last serious mod left to do to my Gixxersarous, to make it a truly modern, retromod.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Gotgixers, sit tight and piggyback off my learning. I'll have it figured out over the next 4 months. It's been done and there's info, but I intend to layout the entire process in detail so there's no gaps or guesswork.

I'll be using Ryan Schnitz as my tuner. Long drive but worth it imo as he's well respected and very knowledgeable.
 
I'll be following this. I have a '78 KZ1000 that I have wanted to convert to injection and once that is sorted some type of forced induction. The port spacing is the same between the KZs the GSXRs so this should be relevant.
 
Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
Thanks for asking!

Immediately after my last post, work got rather intense until the end of the year so I was not able to get things built as far as I wished. I did, however, spend time ordering parts and getting everything organized for success.

My first challenge was getting access to machine tools. In the past, I had access to legit machine shops at work. R&D has changed over the last 10 years and with the companies like Protolabs coming on to the scene, a lot of companies have eliminated their machine shops. I finally came to terms with needing to get my own machines. This precipitated a complete reimagining of my garage. I ended up getting a PM25 mill due to space constraints. This will more than adequately suit my needs and allow me to machine my throttle bodies and other custom parts.
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My chassis parts came in. I ended up getting a DME swingarm. It's a beautiful piece and was worth the wait. If you buy a DME arm for your oil cooled, there's a few things to know. You have the option to choose between Gen 1 & Gen 2 Hayabusa rear wheel setups. Since I did not want to run an arm for the rear caliper and wanted to use the lighter Gen 2 rear wheel, I opted for the Gen 2. What I discovered since is that there's a chain line offset between the Gen 1 & Gen 2. The Gen 2 rear wheel has about a 3/8" further outboard offset vs Gen 1. Regardless of what you choose, both are different from the oil cooled chain line and will need addressing. I'll need a custom rear sprocket to fix it (not a fan of moving the front sprocket further outboard as this adds more stress to the outboard shaft). I also opted to switch over the the CBR 900 front wheel which is meaningfully smaller in diameter and lighter than the oil cooled front wheel. Pretty sure this front wheel will need some custom parts too to swap over.
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My Hayabusa 3/4 turbo upper from Catalyst came in. This was the only option that I could find that had everything filled in.
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My fuel injection swap over parts came in. I opted for the MAXXecu Race H2O ECU. They're a few consideration you need to keep in mind if you move to a MAXXecu. First is you need to convert over to a coil on plug setup. I opted to use Gen 2 Hayabusa coils as these are a very known quantity in the tuning world. You also need a timing module and I opted for the Bosch 0227100211 unit. This also requires a heat sink and got one off amazon (90x90x15mm). Additionally, you need a different ignition trigger sensor as the stock unit will not work. I used this one from MAXXecu (product ID 2012) which is known to work on the oil cooled GSXRs: Maxxecu sensor . I could not find anyone who would order the sensor for me with the exception of DME (you can't buy it directly from MAXX). They are pretty awesome to work with and can recommend them. There are also a bunch of connectors you need to wire everything together. There are several places to get them (ecuplus.de, carmo-electronics.com, ksvlooms.com, etc.). Got my injectors back from cleaning (Schnitz). There's more that needed for the swap but this is where I'm at.
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I'm kind of at a Y in the road. I can choose to swap all of this over now (which will take some legit time) or I can just get the bike running now stock and swap over systems over time. I'm thinking I may just keep my chassis setup as is, run the motor stock with 40mm Mikunis, Sidewinder exhaust and traditional ECU. If I do the later, I will definitely have it done for the April 10th opening of New England Dragway. It will require more patience but will also be more fun as I get to see the improvements of each change on ET. This is looking like the direction I'll end up going for the start of the 2024 season.
 
I subscribe to the “don’t get it right, just get it running” mentality myself. There may be other unknown issues that you will need to sort out with your wheels/ suspension. Getting it on the track this season will probably be a lot more fun than working on it and you will undoubtedly identify issues that need to be changed by testing it
 
I’d like to see/hear any updates as well.
You mentions NE Dragway.. where are you located? I’m in S.Florida but growing up that was my track. I raced a Nighthawk S when I was 15..:) 1987
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Discussion starter · #36 · (Edited)
Progress has been made on the build but it's been a bit like 2 steps forward and 1 step back. Part of the challenge is my builds are near the bottom of the list in terms of priority. I just have too many other things going on that need focus at the moment. Also, I'm playing the long game and approaching this with patience. There's lot that I want to achieve with my builds and it requires infrastructure to get put into place. For example, I want to be a competent engine builder and have capability to build my own chassis (with my own stuff - no interest in doing it professionally). Using an oil cooled as a platform requires me to be able to design fabricate my own parts. This requires infrastructure as well. And this is all great stuff. It's what I want to do. For me its more about the build than it is about the racing though that's important too. But this all takes time. Anyhow, on to the update:

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I bought a full metrology setup with good engine building tools. Surface plate, full set of dial bore gages, valve spring tester, ring grinder, etc. I now have everything I need to fully inspect/blueprint parts, and assemble/disassemble engines. This took some time to figure out, acquire, and setup.
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On the fuel injection front, I bought everything (I think) I need. There was a lot to figure out here. I'm running a total loss setup. The alternator was a 10lb savings! I needed to get a legit battery though to power all the electronics for a full day or racing. Got everything I needed fuel delivery wise. Using Fragola fittings and line, AEM fuel pump, regulator, and fuel filters. Figured out and purchased all the sensors I wanted. One thing I needed to figure out was the trigger wheel. I wanted to run a 24/2 trigger wheel so after much research, I designed and machined one. Also, I'm going to run Maxxecu's digital dash (MDash), which is what the tablet if for. There's other stuff I'm working on that's not pictured. I got most of my throttle bodies machined. Contrary to what you read on the internet, making 01/02 GSXR1000 throttle bodies fit is an involved process. Can be done but with much work. I'll be making a throttle body conversion thread in the future for anyone who wants to do the conversion with detailed analysis.
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A bit back I cam across a new MTC big block with sleeves unmachined. I bought it and had it setup with 1371 pistons. Around the same time, I decided to have Cooper make me an all out cylinder head. It has all the tricks short of offset valve guides and splayed rockers. It's a 31 x 27.5 epoxy spigot head. Took me 9 months to get it back. Also sent my transmission to R&D to have him anneal the gears, and have the shift drum setup/machined. If you run a big shot of NOS, the bike isn't going to shift on the big end. That's what Brock learned back in the day. R&D figured out a solution for Brock and had my transmission setup the same way.
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Yes, for the folks keeping track back home, this is the 3rd pivot I've made with respect to the body. I put together a pretty nice tiger stripe bodywork set. I decided in the end to make it look like a proper 92 1100.
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And here's where the bike is at. Yup, this is also the 3rd pivot. I came to terms with the fact that if I wait to race until the fuel injection conversion is complete, it will be another year. I was going to pay to have Ryan Schnitz do it (the wiring) but he wouldn't return my calls. So I pulled everything off and put the carbs back on. It took me 3 years to find that sidewinder muffler (mine was toast). Got the 16" front wheel conversion almost done. It took 5 iterations of 3D printing to figure out the design for the caliper conversion. Still need to mill it up. DME swing arm is installed with a gen 2 bus rear wheel. I needed to fix the chain line back to what the 1100 had which took some time to sort out a solution for. Figured out what length of dog bone I needed to get the height set right and machined that up. Started the tinwork for the electronics. Need to reinstall the wire harness, fabricate a removable muffler baffle, machine the caliper mount, install the bodywork, and I'm off to the races. Will be done for this season. It will be slow (stock motor) but it will look nice and more importantly, will be at the track with it. Plan is to get everything in queue for the motor builds over the winter (I'll be doing 3 setups and dyno testing them all). That's where things are at. Slow progress but progress none the less.
 
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