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2018 750 Power Mod help

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Tig

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I recently picked up a 2018 750 two weeks ago. Moved up from a 2006 600 and absolutely love it. The power difference is phenomenal, but I'm looking to squeeze every ounce of Horsepower out of the bike (without any major engine work). Planning on doing the basics: Full system Yoshi, Sprint/K&N Air Filter, ECU Flash and new Spark Plugs. Any specific exhaust/flash that anyone can recommend? I know the bike is marketed at 150 HP, which probably equates to about 130-135 RWHP. I'm hoping to get at least 150 to the pavement. Sprocket size and chain size? I prefer acceleration over top speed. Most of my riding is done on the streets, but will definitely invest in some track time.

I'm sorry if there's a thread for this already. I looked through 6 pages in the search and couldn't find anything specific. A link to an already existing thread, or any advice would be great. Thanks!
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Motionelco said:
150 to the wheel ? You’re going need to go internal :crying:
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Takes that much to gain 15 horsepower? I've seen a few things online, like camshaft springs, sprockets, tensioner etc. but how much does that stuff help? Is there any internal work I can do with the motor still in the bike? Also willing to take it to a shop later down the line to get it bored and whatnot, but I wanna do as much as possible myself first
 
#4 ·
You’re wasting money, Go buy a liter bike if your aim is to make more power.
 
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#5 ·
Why would you buy a 750 if you want more power? Completely pointless and you’ll be at 200whp bike levels of money by the time you’re at 150whp oh an unreliable 750
 
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#9 ·
Dyno the bike first, to get a base line for your bike...it's cheap to do a few pulls and then you know what your specific bike did on that day, on that Dyno, under those conditions etc....
You aren't going to gain anything significant chasing 1 or 2 hp with spark plugs and air filters...if they're dirty, change them.
The exhaust might make 8hp...the ECU flash, or Power Commander etc are just the means to tune the bike, so that you can get the full benefit of the pipe.

Your 750 is an awesome well balanced machine. Get the suspension set up for your weight etc. I wouldn't get too caught up with hp #'s...just enjoy it.
The real hp gains are to be had with high compression pistons, head work, cams, anti-friction coatings, ceramic bearings, blue printing, crank work, rods etc...but it's also a recipe, not just throwing parts at it.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Beairsto Racing said:
Dyno the bike first, to get a base line for your bike...it's cheap to do a few pulls and then you know what your specific bike did on that day, on that Dyno, under those conditions etc....
You aren't going to gain anything significant chasing 1 or 2 hp with spark plugs and air filters...if they're dirty, change them.
The exhaust might make 8hp...the ECU flash, or Power Commander etc are just the means to tune the bike, so that you can get the full benefit of the pipe.

Your 750 is an awesome well balanced machine. Get the suspension set up for your weight etc. I wouldn't get too caught up with hp #'s...just enjoy it.
The real hp gains are to be had with high compression pistons, head work, cams, anti-friction coatings, ceramic bearings, blue printing, crank work, rods etc...but it's also a recipe, not just throwing parts at it.
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Awesome advice, thank you! The bike is awesome, and significantly faster than my 2006 Gsxr 600. For the record, I'm 22, 5 foot 9inches and weigh 120 pounds. Lean, but me and my siblings are cursed with small builds, but it's the ultimate weight reduction. Lol. I commute a lot, but have lived here for 14 years, so I know the roads well. Not saying I treat them like a race track, but I know the habits and patterns of the drivers here, as well as smooth/bumpy areas, long curves with side streets and all the bad intersections.

I'm shocked that bolt on parts have such a small affect on the bike, but in sure the slight weight reduction helps with handling. I'll need a flash/tuner to hell smoothing the bike out. Make it easier during street riding. Thanks for your reply!
 
#11 ·
Tig said:
Awesome advice, thank you! The bike is awesome, and significantly faster than my 2006 Gsxr 600. For the record, I'm 22, 5 foot 9inches and weigh 120 pounds. Lean, but me and my siblings are cursed with small builds, but it's the ultimate weight reduction. Lol. I commute a lot, but have lived here for 14 years, so I know the roads well. Not saying I treat them like a race track, but I know the habits and patterns of the drivers here, as well as smooth/bumpy areas, long curves with side streets and all the bad intersections.

I'm shocked that bolt on parts have such a small affect on the bike, but in sure the slight weight reduction helps with handling. I'll need a flash/tuner to hell smoothing the bike out. Make it easier during street riding. Thanks for your reply!
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Hey Tig, to answer ur question there is a way of achieving ur Hp# with power mods without ripping ur whole engine out. It’s a top end mod & requires removal of cylinder head. Ur Going to need a full exhaust and have your ECU flashed in addition to getting a Woolwich racing fuel tuner. If u get a tuner get Woolich tuner but buy the Zeitronix ZT-3 Wideband O2 Sensor autotune Module on eBay or anywhere but Woolich because they tax for a part u can purchase from multiple vendors.

Check out danosperformance.com & all his different packages. He knows our Gsxr’s & he’s manufactured his own parts for our bikes. He has package discounts for full Yoshi exhaust system & mods. Dan will set u up. The dudes honest & will answer any questions without making you feel like ur beneath him. I got a package deal for my Danos quick shifter and ECU flash tune. I even had to send ECU back to get flashed because I didn’t do some options like oem o2 sensor delete & he didn’t even charge me unlike most shops.
Good luck & stay safe out there. If u have any other ? Let me know
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Gsxrforumsquid said:
Oh yeah, forgot to add k&n or any air filter company don’t come close to the sprint filter. Don’t ever get a k&n if you can get a sprint filter instead not only performance gains but will protect your engine better.
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Thank you so much! I'll definitely check Dano's out. Just to clarify, if I get my ECU reflashed with Dano, will I also need a secondary fuel module like the Woolich AutoTuner? And, on a side note, I don't weigh much and feel like my rear suspension is set for a heavier rider. Any info you can give on that would be great, thanks!
 
#14 ·
Tig said:
Thank you so much! I'll definitely check Dano's out. Just to clarify, if I get my ECU reflashed with Dano, will I also need a secondary fuel module like the Woolich AutoTuner? And, on a side note, I don't weigh much and feel like my rear suspension is set for a heavier rider. Any info you can give on that would be great, thanks!
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I havent done the top end mod myself so I can’t speak from that perspective but from my understanding, yes you’ll need some type of fuel controller or get a tune at shop with a dyno to reach peak power. Reason I say to get the Woolwich FI controller with autotune is because all primary & secondary injectors can be adjusted as opposed to the PCV which only controls primary unless you purchase their secondary fuel module. They are technical partners with world superbike, they write software for pro teams. They have a better fuel controller imo. I have PCV & wished I knew about Woolich racing before.

The Ecu flash Turns off a lot of the OEM restrictions like disable fuel cut on deceleration, disable pair valve, disable exhaust valve, disable oem O2 sensor, raise rev limiter, set radiator fan temp to 205/195, remove secondary throttle plate restrictions, The oem ecu cuts power at high rpm.

As far as ur suspension goes, if I were u I would first set rear sag. I think you’re right, ur weight was not what the oem suspension was set for. Get real familiar with the free digital service manual on top of page. Research all the front & rear adjustments & go from there before purchasing new parts. It would be my best guess to go softer in the settings and I’m going to say you’re going to have to do the front as well because you can’t just soften back. Couple clicks, small adjustments at a time and keep track of the settings and Test ride.
Good luck & be safe!
 
#15 ·
^Why do you recommend getting ECU flashed separately and then buying flashing hardware/software? Sounds like you don't know what you are talking about. :)

Cheaper to just buy the flashing hardware and do it yourself. ;)
 
#16 · (Edited)
Yes you are correct JK750, I do not know what I’m talking about, as I recently became aware the Woolwich kit lets you flash ecu as well as being a fuel controller & more. Hence my user name. At the same time I never claimed to know all. My bad if I misled anyone, it was not my intention, just trying to give TIG a direction to go rather than telling him just get 1000r.

IMO, any1 contemplating getting a PCV with autotune OR BAZAZZ autotune should get the Woolich Kit w/AT. Wish I would have known about them before!
 
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