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Extreme Overheating

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#22 ·
JSMITH04 said:
Ok so Im looking at a new oil pump and clutch gasket. I'm going to need a repair manual too to help me with this process. Do you advise getting one off this MRCycle website? Also on a side note, my dad just mentioned that I should replace the clutch while I'm at it if I am already taking it out. The bike has 24k miles and I doubt it has had a clutch replacement. Would you advise doing this or not? I am decent with mechanics but I am no mechanic.
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280 degrees is absurdly hot, and you need to go in and make sure your head, block, and head gasket are not fucked before you start throwing money at this engine.
 
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#23 ·
This is from the K6 1000 owner's manual but I'd expect the same thing for yours (underline is mine):

CAUTION
Running the engine with high engine coolant temperature can cause serious engine damage. If the engine coolant temperature indicates greater than 120°C (248°F) and indicator light comes on, stop the engine to let it cool.
Do not run the engine until the coolant temperature indicates 120°C (248°F) or below.

The thermometer bulb icon starts flickering above 120°C (248°F). At that point you should have pulled over and let it cool down. Nursing it home is actually badly abusing it.

I don't know enough about the details for your engine but I'm thinking that the broken shaft is now in the oil pan. Where ever it is, it needs to come out. The shaft doesn't easily break. Frozen coolant in the pump is one scenario - but not in July. Did you do something to jam the pump impeller?
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
BillV said:
This is from the K6 1000 owner's manual but I'd expect the same thing for yours (underline is mine):

CAUTION
Running the engine with high engine coolant temperature can cause serious engine damage. If the engine coolant temperature indicates greater than 120°C (248°F) and indicator light comes on, stop the engine to let it cool.
Do not run the engine until the coolant temperature indicates 120°C (248°F) or below.

The thermometer bulb icon starts flickering above 120°C (248°F). At that point you should have pulled over and let it cool down. Nursing it home is actually badly abusing it.

I don't know enough about the details for your engine but I'm thinking that the broken shaft is now in the oil pan. Where ever it is, it needs to come out. The shaft doesn't easily break. Frozen coolant in the pump is one scenario - but not in July. Did you do something to jam the pump impeller?
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One of the bolts from the water pump broke off and the hole that goes into the block was no longer there. With only one bolt keeping the water pump tight to the block it was leaking oil bad. We drilled the hole deeper and installed an allthread in there. Maybe I didn't tighten the pump up enough or maybe it backed off. Maybe it backed off and got in a bind causing the oil pump shaft to snap..... I have driven it several times since the fix. I will google how to do compression test and leakdown test. It's been a while since I have done those things. Any advice on which repair manual I should get or where to get it? Also there is no water in the oil and I have started it up since with no issues "other than it heating up again". I think I got lucky this time but we will see.
 
#25 · (Edited)
I happen to have the K6 600 service manual but I think that yours is a generation earlier. Search and/or ask here. The manual ought to be downloadable or someone should be able to email you a copy. There were some links to 600/750 manuals in the 1000 general forum stickys. But they all seem to be dead.

A Google search for "2005 gsxr 600 service manual pdf" found many hits, among them this. But I generally avoid sites where you have to register to see things. Try some of the others.

P.S. In hindsight and in view of the water pump revelation, I'm thinking that you're over your head and need to get a professional involved. Also, as implied but no one specifically said, the weak point is the output shaft on the oil pump, not the shaft into the water pump. The output shaft has the narrowest cross section, possibly by design, and that's normally what breaks.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Times got a little tough and I needed to wait on a couple paychecks before continuing this project. Just ordered a hanes repair and service manual on amazon. I will keep you all updated. Thanks for the support.
 
#28 ·
The Haynes manual is rather generic. You should be able to download a copy of the much more specific and detailed Suzuki manual for free. Search here for posts that provide links to on-line download sites. Good chance that one will have your bike.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Anybody suggest going with electric water pump vs mechanical? Would I be better off doing this vs tearing into my motor? I am still waiting on my haynes manual to arrive and I am not finding any good material on line on how to replace oil pump. Also I removed the broken shaft by simply taking the water pump out and putting a magnet in the hole. Sucked it up instantly.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
BillV said:
The Australian company Davies Craig makes electric water pumps. A very few people here have converted to them. The opinions have been favorable. I think that their EBP15 was used. But you're pretty much on your own there.
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I went ahead and ordered an oil pump off ebay for $28. Seller had 99.9% positive feedback with over 31k sales. Thank you for the input though. Still would love some advice on how to get this process started. I cannot find any good sources online with how to remove oil pump.
 
#34 ·
You have to get a service manual. If push comes to shove you can buy a paper manual directly from Suzuki, though that shouldn't be necessary. I'm almost certain that you get to the oil pump by removing the clutch. But if you use an electric water pump, a very interesting idea given that the water pump mounting bosses are damaged, the existing oil pump with its broken drive shaft might be fine.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
BillV said:
You have to get a service manual. If push comes to shove you can buy a paper manual directly from Suzuki, though that shouldn't be necessary. I'm almost certain that you get to the oil pump by removing the clutch. But if you use an electric water pump, a very interesting idea given that the water pump mounting bosses are damaged, the existing oil pump with its broken drive shaft might be fine.
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Thanks for the info on the electrical pumps. Did a little research and checked some forums where people have done that and it's quite pricey. Pretty good reviews though with people saying it warms the bike up quicker and keeps it cooler. One guy said he definitely felt a difference power wise. Think I'll just replace the oil pump and go from there.
 
#36 ·
I see the EBP15 for under $100 but you're going to need other stuff to go with it. I'm fairly sure that it draws less power than the standard pump so there's a horsepower or two benefit. But it's a job for someone experienced in fabrication and testing.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Compression test came back pretty good. 145, 135, 142.5, 145. I know the 135 is a little low but it's not like there is any detrimental damage to the motor. Does anybody know a good site to buy parts and even routine maintance products like changing oil, spark plugs, air filters, etc? I need a new thermostat because mine is stuck and also an oil change because this process requires one. I was also considering a clutch kit replacement. Sites like bike bandit kinda confuse me and are also very expensive.
 
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