Started taking apart my K5 today, what a .....

Todd_Sails · Dec 29, 2016

BillV said:
Check the steering damper for air. It can get into the damper such that there's a no-damping zone, which is not good. You'll hear a noise from the bubbles when turning from lock to lock if any is present. Topping up can help but it takes some fooling around to get all the air out.

Thanks Bill,
I think my damper is good too. I've had it up to speeds a few times, on desrted country roads mostly, and no hint of a speed wobble.

* I would like to say though, that if I turn from stop to stop, that's like what 30 degrees total arc? :fact:wink2:

noortzy · Dec 29, 2016

Todd_Sails said:
My wheel bearings seem fine, but
* I'm amazed you have to grease the bearings? I thought everything went to sealed bearings in the 80's?
There was no play/slop in the head bearings, and I"m probabloy not going to even mess with the swingarm at this time.
It has just under 14,000mi on her.
Thanks for the advice though.

Your wheel bearings are sealed but the head and swing arm bearings are not. The swing arm bearings are more exposed and get more use so the sooner they are inspected and repacked the better. It can become more difficult to do if left as they dry out and can be a bitch to pull apart. I know as i did mine with similar mileage. It's not so much the mileage and more about the age of the bike. I figured since you had the bike apart as far as you have you have it would be worth doing. Anyways good luck. It is a great bike and I sure have a blast with mine. Cheers.

BillV · Dec 30, 2016

Don't mean to nitpick but the front wheel bearing is a Koyo 6205RS, which is only sealed on one side (I think the rear wheel is the same). That's normally plenty but if water can get inside the wheel, perhaps while the axle has been removed, it can potentially get to both bearings. I don't see any mention of periodic repacking in the service manual. It's as if they're recommending replacing the bearings instead of repacking.

shotie450 · Dec 30, 2016

Hope you guys don't mind my 2cents worth, haven't found a manufacture yet that believed in properly greasing head stem/ swing arm bearings[bare minimum possible]. Also worth checking head stem bearing race while forks off bike as shitty wheelies destroy bearings, especially the bottom one.... for what it's worth. ps: 1st Suzy & loving it... Respect.

JGDJR · Dec 30, 2016

Honestly...The head bearings (OEM) are really just cheap junk IMO...I for sure would replace with Tapered bearings...just more contact area...It does not take long to replace them...

Wheel Bearings...they are not expensive...heck I would replace them...they are 12 -13 years old...this is just my option

I also agree with shotie450...better to do now then in the spring or summer...

John

Todd_Sails · Dec 30, 2016

OK, I have read all the replies and advice, thanks.

I took it to a guys shop that rebuilt my front forks this morning while I watched, and chatted.

There is now a possibility that the bottom lug piece that holds the wheels axle, where the inner tube attaches,
is leaking!
There was always some oil in the bottom groove, and I assumed it was the seal. It did appear the seal was leaking on that side, however it also appears that the bottom piece may be leaking.
The mechanic also states he has seen that, and has redone several of them.
He says the set screw in the side of it has to be drilled out and done specially done. He says the inner tube actually screw onto the lower piece, and a lot of lock tite is used, and then the set screw also put back in.
The manual does not even mention this procedure for fixing the bottom leaking.

Anyone with experience of this?

TIA,
Todd

Todd_Sails · Jan 2, 2017

Well OK, it looks as though my fork tube bottom fitting is not leaking.
The 'hanger' for the front end is also working fine.

It was about 40F today, so I got some more PM done on my LiterBike.

Things like:
Drained the Oil and changed the filter.
Took the battery out- relocated to a closet shelf near my kitchen.
Adjusted the clutch- the right way per service manual
Took the Air cleaner box off- The PAIR still looks to be hooked up!
From everything I've read- this 'mod' is basically to get rid of the 'popping' of the exhaust with an aftermarket muffler/full pipe?
Well, I thought it was already modded, because mine doesn't pop at all on deccelleration.
* So- I'm either going to plug the line that attaches to the air box and plug the airbox (eliminates the PAIR), or better yet, just leave it alone- since mine doesn't sound like popcorn on throttle offs.

Tomorrow, I'll get the plugs out, and if they don't look basically new- they will be.

This is actually kind of fun and knowing my bike was running excellent beforehand, makes it that much easier.

Todd_Sails · Jan 2, 2017

I also had a thought about my bike wheeling quite easily, whereas others with the same year or similar year LiterBikes had said that theirs really doesn't wheelie all that easily.

I got to thinking that it the 'TRE' mod works as they say,
then bike without it have a slightly retarded spark advance timing in the 1st three gears.
I think the purpose of the TRE was/is to keep it from wheeling just a little bit.
I also have to get my countersproket cover off and see if it's stock, or 1-2 teeth smaller too.

Samantha750 · Jan 3, 2017

Todd_Sails said:
I think the purpose of the TRE was/is to keep it from wheeling just a little bit.

I would hypothesize the opposite, that the TRE would allow the bike to wheelie more easily by not retarding the first 4 gears (at least on my 750 it's the 1-4 gears).

:monkeyface

Todd_Sails · Jan 3, 2017

Right, that's what my statement says I thought.

6 of one, half a dozen...

Samantha750 · Jan 3, 2017

:facepalm

Derp, I misread/misinterpreted.

:gaah

Todd_Sails · Jan 3, 2017

No problemo ;-)

oldgixxer · Jan 3, 2017

Samantha750 said:
:facepalm

Derp, I misread/misinterpreted.

:gaah

You were wrong.......again? Great. Thanks woman. Now I will have to change your title to reflect your erroneous ways..:hammer

Todd_Sails · Jan 3, 2017

OK, the sparky plugs are out.

* It has Iridium plugs- of course.
They look to be VERY new- no carbon build up anywhere, electrodes have sharp edges.

I know I"ll catch hell for this- but I"m gapping them and re-using them!
* Ya know, the service manual states to replace plugs every 7,500 mi?
And a well running car engine- they last without issue over 100K mi?

I did find some things missing:
- any semblence of a rear brake light switch? ( I noticed the rear brake did not set off the brake light, only the front lever does.
- The rubber cylinder/cushion that fits in the frame and stands vertical atr the outer rear and under the fuel tank. One of them is missing. I'll call the shop- they'll order it (seems they stock very little)- I mean really, that little bumper thingy is probabjy bought all the time!- sarcasm font.

BillV · Jan 3, 2017

The OEM plugs are non-iridium but I can't fault you for using the correct iridium replacements. Iridiums generally last longer.

See the wiring harness in the parts fiche. 37740-45D00 (now 37740-31D00) is the switch and an associated cable. There's also an associated spring. Some aftermarket rear sets don't have a provision for the switch so it gets left out. But I thought that yours were OEM.

Todd_Sails · Jan 3, 2017

BillV said:
The OEM plugs are non-iridium but I can't fault you for using the correct iridium replacements. Iridiums generally last longer.

See the wiring harness in the parts fiche. 37740-45D00 (now 37740-31D00) is the switch and an associated cable. There's also an associated spring. Some aftermarket rear sets don't have a provision for the switch so it gets left out. But I thought that yours were OEM.

In reverse order, I'm pretty sure they are the stock rear sets. I went to work on/fix the switch yesterday- none there. There is a little hanger where I think it should have gone.
I'll probably just leave it off, since the front is often pulled anyways when someone is behind you when it matters.

If you remember, I've only had this LiterBike about 4 months. Still less than 14K miles on it.
It has a few non stock things.
Pirelli tires
Full carbon Yoshi muffler, aftermarket mid pipe, no set valve.
A Z bomb TRE
K&B air cleaner
and today I found the Iridium plugs?

No Power Commander found, and no idea if it's had a 'flash'.
Butt Dyno is stimulating, and no flat spots or funny running at any rpm.
And, the pair looks like it's all there and not plugged, yet it doesn't pop on throttle off at all.

Samantha750 · Jan 3, 2017

oldgixxer said:
You were wrong.......again? Great. Thanks woman. Now I will have to change your title to reflect your erroneous ways..:hammer

Yes and it's killing me but hey, the last time I was wrong was in 2015. 1 wrong a year is decent, I went ALMOST 2 years...it's acceptable.

:kiss2:

Just_Nick · Jan 4, 2017

Todd_Sails said:
OK, the sparky plugs are out.

* It has Iridium plugs- of course.
They look to be VERY new- no carbon build up anywhere, electrodes have sharp edges.

I know I"ll catch hell for this- but I"m gapping them and re-using them!
* Ya know, the service manual states to replace plugs every 7,500 mi?
And a well running car engine- they last without issue over 100K mi?

I did find some things missing:
- any semblence of a rear brake light switch? ( I noticed the rear brake did not set off the brake light, only the front lever does.
- The rubber cylinder/cushion that fits in the frame and stands vertical atr the outer rear and under the fuel tank. One of them is missing. I'll call the shop- they'll order it (seems they stock very little)- I mean really, that little bumper thingy is probabjy bought all the time!- sarcasm font.

You should not touch iridium plug gaps unless you have a proper tool that will not touch the center electrode. Leave it alone if you're going to reuse them.

BillV · Jan 4, 2017

With regard to the brake switch, it's more likely to be of value when you're stopped at a light. I'm not sure that the spring is correct for ours but I see them for as little as $9 shipped on ebay.

Todd_Sails · Jan 4, 2017

Just_Nick said:
You should not touch iridium plug gaps unless you have a proper tool that will not touch the center electrode. Leave it alone if you're going to reuse them.

? Too delicate? Really? HOw did it get gapped in the first place?

BillV said:
With regard to the brake switch, it's more likely to be of value when you're stopped at a light. I'm not sure that the spring is correct for ours but I see them for as little as $9 shipped on ebay.

I do use my rear brake a lot, and in conjunction with the front.
I've seen that too on ebay. It's much lower priority atm.
Funny, I ordered an $8 rubber bumper- on the frame, under the rear sides of the fuel tank 'cause one was missing! Not the ones that attach to the sides, the cylinder looking rubber ones that have a nipple on the bottom that fits in the frame. To me, that's higher priority than the rear brake light switch.
I'm going to text the previous owner about that and a few things like if he's aware the bike has ever been tuned' having the K&N air cleaner, Yoshi muffler, and SET valve deleted.
I'll ask him if he knew the rear brake switch was gone.
I suspect his answer may be he has no idea on any of this, as he has several awesome sport bikes and only had this one about a year.

Started taking apart my K5 today, what a .....

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