Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

Dutchgsxr1000

· Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
hey guys,

problem:

regulator was broken so i replaced it.
now on the dash the check sign..
when i turn the key the fuelpump doesnt zmmmm end the excva is dead.
(trottle valves are also quiet)
sidestand is in
kill switch on run.
the engine cranks but thats all..
whats is the problem over here?

also a question:
under the buddyseat are 3 loose connectors:
1 for dealermode.
and the other two?

thanx guys. i really need help.....http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/Gixxer_2015/icons/post_thumbsup.png
 
hey guys,

problem:

regulator was broken so i replaced it.
now on the dash the check sign..
when i turn the key the fuelpump doesnt zmmmm end the excva is dead.
(trottle valves are also quiet)
sidestand is in
kill switch on run.
the engine cranks but thats all..
whats is the problem over here?

also a question:
under the buddyseat are 3 loose connectors:
1 for dealermode.
and the other two?

thanx guys. i really need help.....http://www.gixxer.com/forums/images/Gixxer_2015/icons/post_thumbsup.png
Oh the joys of the charging system when the r/r went out did you overcharge the system. Headlights get really bright? Or blow? Battery smoking or really hot? If so it could've possibly fried ur Ecu. Same thing happened to me. Hopefully you went with a good r/r for replacement. MOSFET or oem would b the best choices. Don't do the eBay cheap stuff trust me!!!! It will make you smile for maybe a week or two then bam ur frying stuff again.

Also another way to check is when you throw ur bike in dealer mode does it come up with a code? If not and still says check that means ur guage cluster has no signal from Ecu which would b another sign it fried the ecu
 
Battery still good.
Lights still working
Horn also.
Blinkers good.
Cant get in dealermode because it says check.
My english is not so Well so please not in techical english like r/r hahahaha
Took out also the datatool alarm nice and good... Maybe a connection with this problem?
The alarm wires followed and connected back the original wires back to where they belonged.
It's ur Ecu/computer. It's toast. Read my first response to you. It has the detials there. Put it in dealer mode like you stated you have and still states check that means it's not getting signal from the Ecu. Which would mean that it's bad. Sry about ur luck there Ecu for these year model bikes are pricey! Look at around 300 for a new Ecu! That on eBay. If you wanna test to make sure that's the issue if you have a friend with that model bike 06/07 will work that he doesn't mind for you to plug his Ecu into urs and test to see if the fuel pump primes and it will fire off that best and easiest way to test.
 
Look at around 300 for a new Ecu! That on eBay.
OP is in Holland and ALL bikes except US/Canadian bikes have key coded ECU's which require the matching coded keys. If it's the ECU, he needs matching, coded keys with new locks/ignition to go with it. There may be workarounds but I have no knowledge on this.

Image
Ouch!! :grin::grin: that's gonna b pricey only work around I would know of is keyless ignition like on a race bike but I don't know if that would even work :/
 
Before writing the ECU off, check the voltage at the O/G (Orange/Green) wire at the dealer mode switch. (If you find no O/G wire there, you should have an O/W (Orange/White) one, so check that). With the bike ready to start, you should have battery voltage there; if you don't your ECU isn't getting any power. You mentioned something about a datatool alarm. Does it plug into a connector with all-black wires? If so, there should be a jumper that was originally there, and which must be replaced after removal, or the ECU won't get any power.
 
Hard to say, as all the wires are black. I think there was a picture in a relatively recent thread, but I can't find it now. In any case it'd be best to go about this experimentally. Set the DMM to conitnuity mode, probe the O/G wire at the dealer mode coupler and findout out which of the black wires is connected with it. The DMM should beep with only one black wire and that's one of the two you need to jump. For the other, repeat the same process with the O/W wire, anywhere you can get it. Again, make sure that you get a beep with only one of the black wires. If there are beeps for two, try temnporarily removing all fuses while you probe, so as to break as many indirect connections as possible, and try again. After figuring out the wires, before installing the jumper, measure the voltage between the to-be-jumped wires. Make sure it's zero, otherwise the jump will cause a short.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts