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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Updated with a few pictures of how the bike currently stands
..Ordered fairings which should arrive in the next 2 weeks. Ordered a bunch of miscellaneous parts that were needed. Going to order new tires and hope to fix that radiator fan switch mod....and paint the take and we should be good to go.. I'll keep the thread updated
 
Updated with a few pictures of how the bike currently stands
..Ordered fairings which should arrive in the next 2 weeks. Ordered a bunch of miscellaneous parts that were needed. Going to order new tires and hope to fix that radiator fan switch mod....and paint the take and we should be good to go.. I'll keep the thread updated
If all else fails, score a harness off ebay. In the long run, a wise investment for peace of mind & lack of probs. Good luck on your adventure.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
If all else fails, score a harness off ebay. In the long run, a wise investment for peace of mind & lack of probs. Good luck on your adventure.
thanks man.

I got the radiator fan fixed! so now all im waiting on to be delivered are the fairings. I'm looking for mirrors, and a female-female connector for the rear tailight if anyone has any.

and by any chance does anyone have a deadbattery? I need the little piece that is stuck under the terminal which locks the bolt in place. 1 of mine is missing on my battery and i cant seem to locate that piece anywhere
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Just found out i need another daytime running light cable to replace 1 side of mine which was not functioning. So if anyone knows where i can get that its just the 1 piece that the bulb connects to. Let me know thanks
 
Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
***UPDATE** as of jan-27-2011

I ordered fairings from a company off ebay. It took them forever to create it and start shipping. I never got any updates from them and dont even know if they actually made it. So i canceled and got my refund.

I ordered the new fairings off Steeles autoparts i think the name was ill double check. Fairings look real nice but shipping was a hassle here aswell.

I got my fairings in finally. Pics of fairings will be up soon, waiting on bolts, tires and some more goodies
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited)
**Note: I have checked all connections sensors, etc etc and everything is connected properly. I have checked kickstand switch, killswitch and all that jazz

**UPDATE So i got all my parts in. I think i may have found out why it was hard to start the bike originally. I when removing the fuel tank i noticed the fuel line connected to the throttle body was completely bent backwards which had to have made it very hard to send fuel thru, into the injectors, hence causing me to keep giving it more and more throttle and keep priming for it to start


So I replaced the beat up blue tank with a nice shiny silver one. I transferred the fuel pump from the old tank to the new and i also replaced the spark plugs and throttle body and air filter.

NOW it cranks but doesnt turn over what so ever AND i get “C29” (P1654-H/L) STP SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION.

This is such a pain in the ass I suck with electrical work and dont know where to go from this point. However I did notice when i unplugged the fuel line that goes to the tank and tried priming it i didnt see any fuel coming out? When the fuel pump primes isnt there supposed to be some fuel that gets sent to the injectors to spark plugs to ignite?

All help is greatly appreciated and thank you all in advance. Please give me input im really starting to lose interest in building this thing back.
 
STP sensor is the secondary throttle position sensor. Most likely the connections to it got messed up when you changed the tank. Start by making sure the connections to it are tight. Wiggle the connector(s) a bit to help the connections. Do you have a service manual or an on-line version of it?
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
STP sensor is the secondary throttle position sensor. Most likely the connections to it got messed up when you changed the tank. Start by making sure the connections to it are tight. Wiggle the connector(s) a bit to help the connections. Do you have a service manual or an on-line version of it?

Yes i do have the service manual. And i have a feeling the connection to it got messed up because some fuel did spill on the connector. So my assumption is that may have messed it up? Unfortunately i suck with DMM and I'm horrible with the electrical portion of mechanics so the service manual kinda makes no sense to me for that portion lol
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Maybe you mixed up the STPS and the fuel pump connectors. They use the same connectors. Easy way to tell if your not sure is look at the colour code for the wires against the service manual.
nope checked that already. but thank you for pointing that out it'll probably help anyone else that comes across this thread in their search for help
 
Since you weren't getting the C29 code before, but you are now, I'd start by retracing your steps and making sure you didn't cause a wiring issue. Those sensors are pretty tough, and rarely fail.

Most of the time, when I've seen a C29 error, it's been because the STPS was removed and reinstalled incorrectly. It's pretty easy to hook up an ohm meter and test the sensor. If you just want to throw parts at it, good luck. That sensor is expensive.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
So i havent touched the bike in a week or two, i figured out the c29 was coming up because i plugged it in the wrong sensor -_- i know i feel stuipid. But anyways i replaced iut with the new one i got and that c29 is gone.

NOW the only two codes that come up are
c21-
c22-
Fuel primes, bike clicks, doesnt turnover. I have tried giving throttle and turning key on a off many times and nothing worked.

* I cant get this figured out and its starting to piss me off. So if anyone has input let me know

Thanks in advance
 
IAT and AP sensors (21 and 22).

Do you have the airbox off? The sensors are mounted to the airbox, so if the airbox is off, the sensors are unplugged.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
IAT and AP sensors (21 and 22).

Do you have the airbox off? The sensors are mounted to the airbox, so if the airbox is off, the sensors are unplugged.
no i plugged the airbox sensor back on so one of the codes went away but the other one is the atmospheric pressure sensor in the rear. BUT ive been able to turn the bike on with that same sensor before and the same code was on.

so i feel like its just not firing
 
I ride so i know where neutral is and sometimes its hard for bikes to get into neutral....in this case i never saw the neutral light on the cluster. And no its not in gp shift. Kill switch is not engaged. Kickstand is not down. Unfortunately i cant push start it because i only have 1 arm right now...left. I tore ac ligament in right shoulder so i cant use that for the next few months. But regardless of all that shouldnt the fuel pump prime right when the the bike is turned to the on position?
dude, those gear indicators are notorious for being wrong, push it clutch out when you think its in neutral. honestly from the sound of things, you're not exactly an automotive electrician. i would say take it to the shop for the electrical issues.
 
So i havent touched the bike in a week or two, i figured out the c29 was coming up because i plugged it in the wrong sensor -_- i know i feel stuipid. But anyways i replaced iut with the new one i got and that c29 is gone.

NOW the only two codes that come up are
c21-
c22-
Fuel primes, bike clicks, doesnt turnover. I have tried giving throttle and turning key on a off many times and nothing worked.

* I cant get this figured out and its starting to piss me off. So if anyone has input let me know

Thanks in advance
if the bike clicks you might want to charge the batt. before you resume, just a thought.
 
I have been following this thread for days now because I am having the same issues. I let my brother ride my classic 98' SRAD 750 and he left it out in a hard rain for a while(so he says) and now it won't start/prime. Even though mine is an older model, I have been taking some of the same steps as you Ninja Turtle and have not had any luck as of yet. ~subscribed~
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Deff not an electrical tech.. actually thats teh 1 part of the ASE program i never paid any attention too...now i regret it lol

But anyways i dont think its the battery because its a newly charged one BUT still a possibility. I'm going to have it trickle charged now by tmrw afternoon or friday i should have an update.

and geek i stay around dc northern va

Thanks everyone for their input, greatly appreciated
 
Discussion starter · #40 · (Edited)
***UPDATE AS OF APRIL 4 2011***

So today i popped in the new freshly charged battery and it kept trying to turn over but it wouldnt, so I kept priming the fuel pump while giving it throttle over n over until it finally started. I checked the oil level and it was low and it sounded like it had some knock. After i let it run for a bit. I shut it off and
-changed oil
-flushed coolant

Now it turns on right away but if i turn the throttle off by a tiny tiny bit it shuts off. I think that may be due to the throttle lines needing to be adjusted. **Update So ive adjusted the two throttle cables per manual instructions. the throttle feels alot smoother but before the throttle would get kinda stuck so it would stay revving at that rpm. Now that the throttle is is fixed it stalls out after a little

One other thing ive noticed is i cant seem to rev high RPMs it kinda bogs out.

The only problems left are the fuel light keeps turning on sporadically. I now think theres an issue with the injectors or black fuel line cable which is bent flat in many different spots

The only code left is C22 with the dash on Top. Ive ordered t rear sensor but i honestly dont think that is the problem.

I will keep this thread updated until i get this pos fully operational.

Thanks again for all the support. I hope this thread helps others out
 
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