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My 20k mile stock street 1127 oiler has only seen Bell Ray EXS full synthetic after break in, however I am considering Shell Rotella T just due to cost...

Weight depends on riding conditions 20w-50 for hot weather, good to about 40F. For colder than 40F, well say a 15w but not sure of the lower temp limit of this grade. How cold can you stand?
 
WOW! original post back in 2003.

If anyone is keeping score. I have had good luck with Mobil 1 15w-50. Amsoil synthetic 20w-50 is good stuff, but hard to find and not cheap. By hard to find, I mean it's not available at your local auto parts store.
 
If anyone is keeping score. I have had good luck with Mobil 1 15w-50. Amsoil synthetic 20w-50 is good stuff, but hard to find and not cheap. By hard to find, I mean it's not available at your local auto parts store. A i was told not to put car oil in your bike and if you put car oil in your bike you are a dumass:chucks
 
If anyone is keeping score. I have had good luck with Mobil 1 15w-50. Amsoil synthetic 20w-50 is good stuff, but hard to find and not cheap. By hard to find, I mean it's not available at your local auto parts store. A i was told not to put car oil in your bike and if you put car oil in your bike you are a dumass:chucks
That was good advice
 
I've never put "car" oil in any of my wet clutch bikes since i was young and dumb and did so and wiped my clutch in about 1 hr....

It's not necessarily if its "car" oil or "motorcycle" oil that matters so much. It's more important to look for branding like this on the container......

Image




"Energy Conserving" means that it usally contains additives that don't play nice with wet clutches. People use "car oil" (NOT energy conserving) in their bikes all the time. Hell Shell Rotella-T is a synthetic diesel car/truck oil that has been used for years and years with great success in motorcycles.
 
For those that are thinking about experimenting with oils for their motorcycle engines: If you have a wet clutch, and your motor and gearbox share the same oil, then if you don't use an oil specifically designed for engines of this type you are risking damage to either your clutch or gradual but accelerated wear of internal engine components. Typical motorcycle engine configurations (clutch, gearbox, and engine sharing lube oil) will quickly breakdown the additives that give the oil their multi-viscosity ratings (the exception to this is synthetic oil). How long - well I don't know but much faster than cars. And many car oils have lots of friction modifiers to achieve a energy conserving rating, but will cause you clutch issues (slipping).

Motorcycle oils are designed for all these conditions, but they charge 2-7 times as much for that designation. There are a handful of "diesel car/truck" oils that have been proposed to be formulated to be suitable for the conditions that motorcycle engines endure, but if so that is an unintended coincidence I'm sure. I haven't personally verified these diesel oils are formulated such that they would be would be suitable, but have read some articles that claim that.

So what type of oil should you use? Depends on how much you care about the longevity of your engine, and how much of a risk taker you are.
 
For those that are thinking about experimenting with oils for their motorcycle engines: If you have a wet clutch, and your motor and gearbox share the same oil, then if you don't use an oil specifically designed for engines of this type you are risking damage to either your clutch or gradual but accelerated wear of internal engine components. Typical motorcycle engine configurations (clutch, gearbox, and engine sharing lube oil) will quickly breakdown the additives that give the oil their multi-viscosity ratings (the exception to this is synthetic oil). How long - well I don't know but much faster than cars. And many car oils have lots of friction modifiers to achieve a energy conserving rating, but will cause you clutch issues (slipping).

Motorcycle oils are designed for all these conditions, but they charge 2-7 times as much for that designation. There are a handful of "diesel car/truck" oils that have been proposed to be formulated to be suitable for the conditions that motorcycle engines endure, but if so that is an unintended coincidence I'm sure. I haven't personally verified these diesel oils are formulated such that they would be would be suitable, but have read some articles that claim that.

So what type of oil should you use? Depends on how much you care about the longevity of your engine, and how much of a risk taker you are.
.... or more importantly how often you change it.

John
 
It's not necessarily if its "car" oil or "motorcycle" oil that matters so much. It's more important to look for branding like this on the container......

Image




"Energy Conserving" means that it usally contains additives that don't play nice with wet clutches. People use "car oil" (NOT energy conserving) in their bikes all the time. Hell Shell Rotella-T is a synthetic diesel car/truck oil that has been used for years and years with great success in motorcycles.
Your on the money. Stay away the x-30 oils with "energy conserving" for the clutch. Most of the "Racing" oils have a higher Zinc content for better shear protection.

I have used everything over the years.

Schaffers (moly)
GTX (car)
Suzuki (bike)
Motul (bike semi syn)
Rotella (diesel)
Mobil 1 (Syn)
Kendell (Car)
Amsoil (Bike Syn)

And none of them tore my motor up. But then again I don't leave them in there forever. I usually change mine 2000 miles on my street bikes and about every other trip to the track on my drag bikes. Probably a bit excessive but as Darkirish58 says... I care. :lmao

John
 
.... or more importantly how often you change it.

John
Yes I believe so too! I have read an article from a college professor that claimed he tested the viscosity of non synthetic car oils used in motorcycles and the 50 weights deteriorated to 20 and 30 weights after a few hundred miles of street use. If so that oil had little high temperature engine protection, the higher viscosity number indicates the oil's viscosity stability at high operating temperatures.
 
If anyone is keeping score. I have had good luck with Mobil 1 15w-50. Amsoil synthetic 20w-50 is good stuff, but hard to find and not cheap. By hard to find, I mean it's not available at your local auto parts store. A i was told not to put car oil in your bike and if you put car oil in your bike you are a dumass:chucks
I must be a dumb ass, cause I have been running motor oil in all my four stroke bikes for oh, about 30 plus years of riding. Have yet to have an engine failure due to oil breakdown. If you buy into all the hype motor oil companies advertise about their motorcycle oil. You might just be a dumb ass. I would really look into what is the difference in the refining process and additives (or lack of), of motorcycle oil vs. motor oil. I have seen plenty of engine puke their guts out, running on synthetic motorcycle oils. I have also seen plenty of bikes run for hours at the track, using over the counter dino juice motor oil.
 
I just go to the dealer and buy the reccomended suzuki oil. Pricings the same pretty much.

I have however been looking into maybe going AMSoil or Royal Purple for it after the rebuild.
 
It's not necessarily if its "car" oil or "motorcycle" oil that matters so much. It's more important to look for branding like this on the container......

Image




"Energy Conserving" means that it usally contains additives that don't play nice with wet clutches. People use "car oil" (NOT energy conserving) in their bikes all the time. Hell Shell Rotella-T is a synthetic diesel car/truck oil that has been used for years and years with great success in motorcycles.
Yea, I know... i was "simplifying" my statement. After years of experimenting I use Rotella T synthetic in all my bikes now actually....
 
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