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HID install with lots of pics

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#764 ·
downsc123 said:
The 55W kit will provide 40% more light output than the 35W kit and is perfectly safe to run in our bikes. FTIW, the 35W kit will be a big improvement over stock, but the 55W is just that much brighter.
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invaderekim said:
k so if I get one 6000K with a 35W it will work fine?
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tonee888 said:
Id say get this H11 6000k 55w thats what im doing
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I agree with tonee and downsc... While everyone is entitled to there opinion as to what is "enough" light output, I just have to say one thing.

If there is a light output that does have a cutoff and 55watt systems are perfectly fine (in terms of not melting the housings, overheating, etc) then why not go with a much brighter system when it isn't that much more. It's like getting last years computer technology for a bit less than the state of the art stuff.

Honestly I recommend getting 55w for your lo beams and if you must then 35w for highbeams. The new gixxers come with a focusing projector lens that won't blind on coming traffic when adjusted properly (usually okay the way it is... mine was).

Also seeing how the 55w HID emits less heat than the halogen from the bulb, its safe to throw into your housings.
 
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#765 · (Edited)
alight kool Good to know. But I got one more question for you guys. The site says that a 8000k with a 55w will look like a 6000k wit a 35w. Isn't it smarter to get the cheaper 35w with the 6000k because it will look very similar? That's what the site says in an example so I'm pondering over that. Why spend the extra $7.50 for the 55w if the 6000k 35w will look the same ?
 
#768 · (Edited)
invaderekim said:
So a 8000k with 55w will be almost the same as a 6000k with a 35w??
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The temps of the bulbs affect the color of the bulb (4300k is the brightest climax of the spectrum and going out in either direction will change color and darken the further away you get).

The wattage affects its power.

As for those two being the same I don't see how they would, kev will correct me if i'm wrong, but the lumen output of an 8000k 55w bulb ≈4700 -- the lumen output of a 6000k 35w bulb is ≈3140. From what i see 4700≠3140. But i could be wrong :dunno


invaderekim said:
sorry but what is the cutoff exactly?
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It's what projectors do to keep the light in a specified, directed area. Which what kev was saying about fog lights and hi-beams. If you throw in an HID into either, the light output gets scattered all God's earth and space and could blind people.
 
#772 ·
invaderekim said:
Alright. Why would the website say that then?
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The higher you go up in color temp from 4300K (that is the brightest for a given wattage), the lower the light output (lumems) when keeping the wattage constant. They are probably trying to compare approximate light output (lumens) between a 55W 8000K and a 35W 6000K. But the color of the light has nothing to do with wattage. So to get the same light output out of a purple 10000K when compared to a white 5000k bulb, you would have to significantly increase the wattage of the 10000K system. Hope this helps.
 
#773 ·
Without boring everyone half to death with science and other electronic garbage talk, I'm going to try to explain why the website explained the spectrum shifts at different wattages.

Imagine that you have 2 flashlights; one a 2-D cell flashlight and one 6-D cell flashlight. Which one is brighter? of course you'd say the 6-D cell flashlight. That is the given and is common knowledge.

The question is, which light is whiter and which is yellower? Obviously the 6-D cell light will be the whitest of the two vs. the 2-D cell light will be yellow-er.

Both lights use the same bulb which will have the same Kelvin temperature. Thus it is just the wattage that creates a more illuminated and projected color.

The website is suggesting that the 55watt system at 8000K is more of a true blue. 55watt system at 6000K is platinum white BECAUSE of its wattage. 35watt 6000K systems will illuminate darker so the color shift is equal to the 55watt 8000k system.

So this brings up a good point. Most of us have been going almost exclusive with 55watt systems. I forgot that there is a color shift between 35watt and 55watt systems.

hope that clarifies alot of things. I suggest that you read through the 700 posts or at least skim through them.
 
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#774 ·
kevinmlee said:
So this brings up a good point. Most of us have been going almost exclusive with 55watt systems. I forgot that there is a color shift between 35watt and 55watt systems.
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Are you sure that this applies to a HID setup. I completely agree that this applies to an incandescent bulb that contains a filament. As you up the voltage, the filament burns hotter and brighter which results in a light output with less red (appears more blue/white). As we all know, the HID bulb does not have a filament. HID light is created from the plasma arc discharge between two electrodes contained in a capsule filled with xenon gas and metallic salts. High voltage (via the ballast) is applied across the electrodes to initiates an arc of across the xenon gas. As the gas heats, it causes the enclosed metallic salts to vaporize. Once full vaporization of the salts has occurred, the HID is at full light output. Based on this understanding, I always thought that the color temperature of the HID bulb was a function of the salts and xenon gas concentration since they are the medium that the light arc is drawn across. Is this not exactly true? Please correct any misconceptions I have….thanks again Kevin.
 
#775 · (Edited)
invaderekim said:
Ok kool. U got hid on ur bike?
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yes. 55w 6000k


downsc123 said:
Are you sure that this applies to a HID setup. I completely agree that this applies to an incandescent bulb that contains a filament. As you up the voltage, the filament burns hotter and brighter which results in a light output with less red (appears more blue/white). As we all know, the HID bulb does not have a filament. HID light is created from the plasma arc discharge between two electrodes contained in a capsule filled with xenon gas and metallic salts. High voltage (via the ballast) is applied across the electrodes to initiates an arc of across the xenon gas. As the gas heats, it causes the enclosed metallic salts to vaporize. Once full vaporization of the salts has occurred, the HID is at full light output. Based on this understanding, I always thought that the color temperature of the HID bulb was a function of the salts and xenon gas concentration since they are the medium that the light arc is drawn across. Is this not exactly true? Please correct any misconceptions I have….thanks again Kevin.
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Kev, is this similar to how most people think more watts to a stereo is more volume? But it's not, it's just more power. :scratch
 
#778 ·
#779 ·
invaderekim said:
i know an HID is an HID but what about these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/H11-6000K-Cool-Blue-HID-Xenon-Headlight-Bulbs_W0QQitemZ250412449090QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3a4dbebd42&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
i know halogen bulbs burn hotter but would these work for a quick fix?
how about the wattage, will the watts be too much?
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Those are regular halogen bulbs and will produce less light output than your stock bulbs. To make them appear blue, they tint the glass housing which restricts some of the light output. Also, I don't see a power rating on that link, but bulbs like that are usually 65W (they up the power some to compensate for the less light output due to the blue tiniting). 65W would be too much power draw for our low beam application and you could end up blowing the lowbeam fuse. Just spend the $75 and get a real HID kit.
 
#780 ·
downsc123 said:
Those are regular halogen bulbs and will produce less light output than your stock bulbs. To make them appear blue, they tint the glass housing which restricts some of the light output. Also, I don't see a power rating on that link, but bulbs like that are usually 65W (they up the power some to compensate for the less light output due to the blue tiniting). 65W would be too much power draw for our low beam application and you could end up blowing the lowbeam fuse. Just spend the $75 and get a real HID kit.
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oh really? kool good to know. thanks Down
also what do i do to get rid of the stock yellow look on the hi beams
im going to do HID on the Low beam but not the brights so how can i make
them match the white blue look of like a 6000k or 8000k HID?
on page 11 you said "Just do a google search for 9005 xenon 7000K bulbs....here is one example
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=220127303238
I have the 6K HID kit so I got 5800K 9005 bulbs for the high beams and they match good. Just make sure that you don't get ones that are more than 65 watts (factory is 60)."
where can i find something to match a 6000K or a 8000k
that link is ended
 
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