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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Naa man...something isn't right. That battery should be sealed.
I'll take pictures of the battery tomorrow. My bike JUST came out of the shop because I had some work done. I blew my transmission.

I had my transmission fully rebuilt, new rings installed with a fresh hone job, and new rod bearings installed. The shop that did the work is the shop I bought the bike from. Them assholes better have not switched my battery out. That bike just put me $2,300 in the fuckin hole!
 
I hope this helps too.

9-40 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
BATTERY
SPECIFICATIONS
1 Upper cover breather 5 Terminal
2 Cathode plates 6 Safety valve
3 Stopper 7 Anode plates
4 Filter 8 Separator (Fiberglass plate)
INITIAL CHARGING
Filling electrolyte
• Remove the aluminum tape 1 sealing the battery electrolyte
filler holes A.
NOTE:
When filling electrolyte, the battery must be removed from the
vehicle and must be put on the level ground.
• Remove the caps 2.
NOTE:
* After filling the electrolyte completely, use the removed cap 2
as sealing caps of battery-filler holes.
* Do not remove or pierce the sealed areas 3 of the electrolyte
container.
• Insert the nozzles of the electrolyte container 4 into the battery’s
electrolyte filler holes, holding the container firmly so
that it does not fall. Take precaution not to allow any of the
fluid to spill.
• Make sure air bubbles 5 are coming up each electrolyte container,
and leave in this position for about more than 20 minutes.
Type designation YT12A-BS
Capacity 12V,36kC (8Ah)/10 HR
SNOTE:
If no air bubbles are coming up from a filler port, tap the bottom
of the electrolyte container two or three times.
Never remove the container from the battery.
• After confirming that the electrolyte has entered the battery
completely, remove the electrolyte containers from the battery.
Wait for about 20 minutes.
• Insert the caps 6 into the filler holes, pressing in firmly so that
the top of the caps do not protrude above the upper surface of
the battery’s top cover.

For initial charging, use the charger specially designed for MF battery.

* Never use anything except the specified battery.
* Once the caps have been installed to the battery, do
not remove the caps.
* Do not tap the caps with a tool such as hammer
when installing them.
CORRECT INCORRECT
* For charging the battery, make sure to use the charger specially designed for MF battery. Otherwise,
the battery may be overcharged resulting in shortened service life.
* Do not remove the cap during charging.
* Position the battery with the cap facing upward during charging.
Visually inspect the surface of the battery container. If any signs
of cracking or electrolyte leakage from the sides of the battery
have occurred, replace the battery with a new one. If the battery
terminals are found to be coated with rust or an acidic white
powdery substance, clean the battery terminals with sandpaper.
RECHARGING OPERATION
• Using the multi circuit tester, check the battery voltage. If the
voltage reading is the 12.0 V (DC) and less, recharge the battery
with a battery charger.
A Charging period
B Stop charging

Recharging time: 5 A for 1 hour or 1.2 A for 5 to 10 hours

• After recharging, wait for 30 minutes and more and check the
battery voltage with a multi circuit tester.
• If the battery voltage is the 12.5 V and less, recharge the battery
again.
• If battery voltage is still 12.5 V and less, after recharging,
replace the battery with a new one.
• When the motorcycle is not used for a long period, check the
battery every 1 month to prevent the battery discharge.
* When recharging the battery, remove the battery
from the motorcycle.
* Do not remove the caps on the battery top while
recharging.
Be careful not to permit the charging current to
exceed 5 A at any time
 
First off, thanks for your time guys.

1. My battery is the battery that came with the bike.

2. Bought the bike new in June of 06'.

3. My battery isnt completely sealed. There is a plastic strip on top with 6 or so plugs attached to it, that you can pull off. I pulled that off and filled the battery with acid, then charged it for 2 hours.

After that my fuel pump primed like a champ but I still had the same problem. I'm thinking maybe the battery is putting out just enough AMPS to prime the pump but not enough AMPS to run the fuel injection system. I'm going to break out the volt meter tomorrow and see how many VOLTS/AMPS I have coming off the terminals when the bikes running.

I should've said this before, but the battery did completely die on me after I fixed the coolant leak. Thus the reason for charging it. Like I said before though, I was riding the bike up and down my street crankin wheelies and stoppies 5 minutes before I took the tank off to fix the leak. Money is tight right now so I just wanna make sure we have a SOLID answer before I buy a new battery.
That damn strip says " DO NOT OPEN " on it!!!!!! If it says this DO NOT OPEN it! @#$%^
 
Actually it don't. Your suppose to take that strip off to add battery acid before charging. I don't think the right battery is in my bike for some reason. Shady ass shops...
It does say. Supposed to. That strip is to close permanently the battery after the initial setup. What brand battery you have? What is the part #?
 
It may not say "do not open" on it, but there is a reason it is not normal screws on top like a normal mainenance battery. It is not easy to open, because it is not SUPPOSED to be opened

The batterys are shipped DRY. The elecrolyte comes in a bottle that has 6 chambers in it. At the shop they press the bottle onto the battery, it drains into the battery, and they install the plastic strip. You then charge it AND FORGET IT. If it quits holding a charge, you replace it. Period. you DO NOT ADD ACID TO A MAINTANANCE FREE BATTERY. It comes with the right amount in the bottles, to fill it to where it needs to be. It also does not have a vent on it for this reason.

The fluid is NOT a gel battery. The only sportbike off the top of my head that has a gel battery is the R1 from around 2001 I think it was. The battery laid on its side in that bike.

There is a huge difference in a gel battery, and a MF battery. But with that said, the battery for our bikes is $60-$80 dollars, depending on if you get a Yuasa, Interstate, or the OEM.
 
Actually it don't. Your suppose to take that strip off to add battery acid before charging. I don't think the right battery is in my bike for some reason. Shady ass shops...
No, you are not......... not once the battery is FIRST put into service.
 
I hope this helps too.

9-40 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
BATTERY
SPECIFICATIONS
1 Upper cover breather 5 Terminal
2 Cathode plates 6 Safety valve
3 Stopper 7 Anode plates
4 Filter 8 Separator (Fiberglass plate)
INITIAL CHARGING
Filling electrolyte
• Remove the aluminum tape 1 sealing the battery electrolyte
filler holes A.
NOTE:
When filling electrolyte, the battery must be removed from the
vehicle and must be put on the level ground.
• Remove the caps 2.
NOTE:
* After filling the electrolyte completely, use the removed cap 2
as sealing caps of battery-filler holes.
* Do not remove or pierce the sealed areas 3 of the electrolyte
container.
• Insert the nozzles of the electrolyte container 4 into the battery’s
electrolyte filler holes, holding the container firmly so
that it does not fall. Take precaution not to allow any of the
fluid to spill.
• Make sure air bubbles 5 are coming up each electrolyte container,
and leave in this position for about more than 20 minutes.
Type designation YT12A-BS
Capacity 12V,36kC (8Ah)/10 HR
SNOTE:
If no air bubbles are coming up from a filler port, tap the bottom
of the electrolyte container two or three times.
Never remove the container from the battery.
• After confirming that the electrolyte has entered the battery
completely, remove the electrolyte containers from the battery.
Wait for about 20 minutes.
• Insert the caps 6 into the filler holes, pressing in firmly so that
the top of the caps do not protrude above the upper surface of
the battery’s top cover.

For initial charging, use the charger specially designed for MF battery.

* Never use anything except the specified battery.
* Once the caps have been installed to the battery, do
not remove the caps.
* Do not tap the caps with a tool such as hammer
when installing them.
CORRECT INCORRECT
* For charging the battery, make sure to use the charger specially designed for MF battery. Otherwise,
the battery may be overcharged resulting in shortened service life.
* Do not remove the cap during charging.
* Position the battery with the cap facing upward during charging.
Visually inspect the surface of the battery container. If any signs
of cracking or electrolyte leakage from the sides of the battery
have occurred, replace the battery with a new one. If the battery
terminals are found to be coated with rust or an acidic white
powdery substance, clean the battery terminals with sandpaper.
RECHARGING OPERATION
• Using the multi circuit tester, check the battery voltage. If the
voltage reading is the 12.0 V (DC) and less, recharge the battery
with a battery charger.
A Charging period
B Stop charging

Recharging time: 5 A for 1 hour or 1.2 A for 5 to 10 hours

• After recharging, wait for 30 minutes and more and check the
battery voltage with a multi circuit tester.
• If the battery voltage is the 12.5 V and less, recharge the battery
again.
• If battery voltage is still 12.5 V and less, after recharging,
replace the battery with a new one.
• When the motorcycle is not used for a long period, check the
battery every 1 month to prevent the battery discharge.
* When recharging the battery, remove the battery
from the motorcycle.
* Do not remove the caps on the battery top while
recharging.
Be careful not to permit the charging current to
exceed 5 A at any time
.....
 
the battery for our bikes is $60-$80 dollars, depending on if you get a Yuasa, Interstate, or the OEM.
The battery prices skyrocketed this year. I just ordered last week a few dozen Yuasa to fill up the shelf in the shop. I was amazed how much the prices went up. the Yuasa YT12ABS is $137.95 Retail $79 dealer :banghead
 
I just bought an interstate for $75 I think it was :dunno.

I get them straight from an interstate dealer, rather than a bike shop though.
 
Actually it don't. Your suppose to take that strip off to add battery acid before charging. I don't think the right battery is in my bike for some reason. Shady ass shops...

no you are not, it is a maintenance free battery.

Did you not read anything I typed. Ive been doing this for about 10 years.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Moto joe, dude, chill out! Yeah I read what you typed. I'm also telling you what I did. If I put battery acid in a gel battery then oopps, my fault. I haven't been doing this for 10 years like you and I'm used to the generic liquid acid batteries and not the gel type.

I wouldn't be on here asking questions if I knew everything, and neither would anyone else. Its a forum dude, calm down.

Thanks for your time and help everyone, including you Moto Joe!
 
It is not a gel battery..... its maintenance free. There is a difference, although the are treated the same. The difference being that a MF battery does have to be initially "put together" but once it is first put into service, it is done.... if it dies, it dies.

Sorry man, it was early in the morning, and it seriously irks the shit outta me when I go out of my way to make sure my post is very technical, and proffesionall advice, and it is bypassed and ignored. Especialy when most everyone has said "do not remove the caps" and someone who asked for advice...... then wants to argue with the advice given. Women do that..... ask advice then argue with it. If you know the answer, then why ask.
 
Unless they switched it with an el cheapo. Post a pic when you get a chance.

If he said he had to "pull a strip off with 6 plugs" it is not an el-cheapo. the cheap batterys usally have screws, or snap in individual plugs, not one long strip. They also have a vent, which a MF battery does not.
 
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