Is it possible that the master link on a chain tightens as heat builds up? I still have a weird vibration on my k6. Chain tension is fine, no tightspots as well when I checked it when cold . BUT,,, once the bike’s been driven a short while the vibration starts at high speed… I have a feeling that the masterlink is too tight … especially when warmed. It looks like from above that the chain has a slight wobble upwards and downwards in it when I feel the vibration at speed. I hope by replacing the link the vibration is sorted…!!!!
k6guy
is it pure slack in the chain? Also put it on a rear stand and in N and spin the rear tire and look for any type of kinks in the chain or it snagging the rear sprocket anywhere. Ride your bike and hop off it and grab the chain and see how hot it is to test your heat theory 
When you test your chain slack you shouldn't have to push hard at all. We have some guys complain about wrecked sprockets then state the chain slack was perfect as when they push up then pull down it's the right distanct, but whne i ask if they check the slack with one finger there is a long silence on the phone. Only a few admit they use about 40-50 lbs of pressure to test it. Which is way too much. Should be nice and pure slack with little pressure to measure it.
Post up if you figure out the problem.
Post up if you figure out the problem.
I have about 1.5 inches of slack with my bike on a rear stand. Remember when you sit on it the chain tightens and when you hit a bump it tightens more. Always error on the loose side as it is better for the sprockets.:cheers
Are you sure it's the chain causing it? are the tires balanced and could a rim be dented? 1.5 inches is too much and you don't want to error at all. Too lose will destroy the sprocket just as well as too tight. We have had several people call up stating sprockets suck and crack between the teeth and spread out between the teeth. This happens from a chain that is too loose. when you crack it open the chain will "slap" the sprocket and cause this. You want your oem specs on it. There is enough room in oem specs that you should stay there.
the oem specs will be enough slack to cover what your suspension can do and your weight. put the bike on a stand and see if you can mimic it...that will rule out the rims at least.
Don't quote me but i believe most all sportbikes should be right under 1". like .9. most specs are around .8-1.2" If those are the specs that seems tight to me, but for liability reasons don't hold me to it and always do what the manufacturer recommends hehehe I will state that personally i do an eyeballed inch on my own bikes. Same like i do all my bolts "arm snug, arm tight, arm damn tight" because my arm is a highly machined torque wrench
I don't know if this was discussed before... but I'm guessing you checked your alignment?
How did you check it?
How did you check it?
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