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Runs Bad Warm... Good Cold...

14K views 61 replies 9 participants last post by  get-some  
#1 ·
I’ve read a couple posts like with similar problems as mine. Just wanted to explain my issue, and my lack of mechanical experience… I live about 5 miles from work, when I take my 1997 gsxr 1100 in to work in the morning it starts up fine, never really have to choke it.. and it runs great all the way to work.. very responsive, and smooth.. But when I go 10 or more miles it seems to run like crap. The first time I noticed it I thought I was running out of gas. That’s how it acts.. really doggy, like it’s not getting gas. If I stop moving, or stop revving the engine, it will stall out.

Now, from what I’ve read on here, this seems like a rich or lean problem. I was thinking of tackling it myself.. but I’m not sure. I have some worries when I think of myself doing this… I do have the repair manual. But, what exactly do you guys think I should do.. what should be my first step? How long do you think it would take a shop to do this? My Suzuki shop in town charges $75/hr… do you think they’d be able to tweak it in an hour? Just wondering what you guys think… should I use this as a reason to start learning about bikes? I kind of want to do it myself, but I’m going to need some serious direction.. If I WAS going to try it myself… where should I start? Thanks!!!!!
 
#2 ·
Correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't that a symptom of being rich?

What is your elevation and jets?
 
#3 ·
I'm not exactly sure... The guy I bought it from said it has a jet kit in it, but I really don't know much about this stuff. (which you'll discover with this next question... ) I need to remove the gas tank to get to the carbs and answer your question correct? I've been riding for 3 years, but have zero years working on motors... thanks for the help!
 
#5 ·
I'm not exactly sure... The guy I bought it from said it has a jet kit in it, but I really don't know much about this stuff. (which you'll discover with this next question... ) I need to remove the gas tank to get to the carbs and answer your question correct? I've been riding for 3 years, but have zero years working on motors... thanks for the help!
Yes, you have to remove the carbs and the float bowls to access the main jets in most cases.

He meant elevation, i.e., how high is it where you live, and has that changed since the bike was jetted?
 
#4 ·
I would concur that it's a rich issue as the choke is not needed.

Common things to address rich (assuming jet kit):

Clean/replace your air filter - Restricted air flow causes the engine to draw more fuel.
Stuck float.
Lean the idle circuit
Lower the needles further into the emulsion tubes
Smaller main jets
Lower float height.
 
#6 ·
oh... actual elevation.. I thought that was a carb term or something. I'm in Mount Pleasant Michigan... it's like 770 ft here. But, no, I don't think that's changed since it's been jetted. In you guys opinion, should a wrenching noob give this a shot, or should I take it in?
 
#9 ·
I think his plan is to see if the airbox is restricting the flow, so yeah. Personally, I'd just remove the filter and run it briefly to see if it improves. If it does, that's further confirmation that the issue stems from a rich condition.

If you have an aftermarket K&N filter in there, you may need to clean and re-oil it.
 
#11 ·
not sure on yours, bot it should be a few bolts for the tail, a couple for the seat and a couple more for the tank. you can move the tank to the side to expose the airbox. you wont need to remove the fuel lines for this. you may have a paper filter when you should have a k&n or just a dirty filter.
 
#14 ·
Was it from the carb or maybe the valve cover hose that feeds back into the airbox?

I'd say noob or not you'd be better of doing it yourself. One you will learn and two it will save you $80 an hour.
 
#18 ·
Is the gage marked with temperature readings? If so, it shouldn't go over 220°F as a maximum (stopped at a light, and the fans come on), and on a mild day running 45mph or more, it should indicate 180°F consistently.
 
#20 ·
The gauge isn't marked with temps... it just sits about half way... still way in the blue zone.. it doesn't appear to be hot sitting on the bike or anything.. Not sure about the fan.. should it kick on when it's just idling?

I took the air filter out.. not sure if it looks bad or good, but I don't think it's too bad. It is a K&N see below... also what's the best way to clean it?
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There was fluid... looks like rusty water.. in the air box.. is that ok?
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Here's the hole in that black thing I was talking about... there's really not a lot of smoke that comes out.. but I do see some..
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Also, there's this thing on the bottom of my gas tank.. that isn't wired to anything.. it was just sitting underneath dangling.. what is it?
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Thanks for any help!
 
#24 ·
my advice now... stop mucking about and take it to a qualified mechanic. you said that you were a noob, and it looks a lot like you have more than just one problem. sure it may take $75 an hour, but you are getting well past newbie quick fixes and it appears as though it will cost you a lot more in the long run, and then you will look like an asshat when you finally do take it to the mechanic, and then you may have actually caused more problems and thus will pay more.
 
#28 ·
i would correct the small things. tape that hole closed on the airbox, remove water. then drain about a quart of oil into a pan to see if you are mixing oil and coolant, you can alos do it to the coolant side to check for oil. if they both come back clean, i would say its a rich issue. does the exhaust reek of gas when its warm?