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K5/K6 Owners: DO THE CLUTCH FIX!

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14K views 81 replies 24 participants last post by  Sucram  
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#1 ·
My god, what a difference. I really can't believe Suzuki didn't ship the bike like this.

Anyway, I did replaced the spring washer with the K6 750 one, drilled the 3 extra holes in the basket, greased the lifter ramps with brake caliper grease (molybdenum disulfate), and adjusted the lifter pins 2 1/4 turns out from bottomed and it feels better than brand new.

I had always thought I'd gotten lucky and didn't have the clutch problems most people complained about. I did the above work as a preventative measure because I didn't want to develop problems in the future. Little did I know what a massive improvement in smoothness and feel I was in for. Also, the back-torque limiting effect is MUCH better now. I downshifted into 2nd from 3rd at around 8-9K RPM and it was just instant and smooth, not even the hint of judder (there was still a little bit before I did all this).

The long story short is: everyone who owns a K5 or K6 1000 should take the time and the $20 it takes to do this work, you will be VERY glad you did.

This has been a public service announcement.
 
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#4 ·
Yeah I should give credit where credit's due, I got 99% of my info from Stocky's posts. Did you post up the info on the K6 750 spring washer, too? I can't remember.
 
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#6 ·
I just wanted to make it perfectly clear that I feel this is a mandatory service for ALL K5/K6's, regardless of how great your unfixed clutch feels. :D
 
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#8 ·
I've been a big proponent of this fix ever since I did the washer fix and posted up the part numbers and the steps to change out the washer. Despite what others - that have not tried it mind you - have argued, it is beyond a doubt a major change in clutch action and response.

Congrats and welcome to your new bike.
 
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#9 · (Edited)
Xerces said:
I've been a big proponent of this fix ever since I did the washer fix and posted up the part numbers and the steps to change out the washer. Despite what others - that have not tried it mind you - have argued, it is beyond a doubt a major change in clutch action and response.

Congrats and welcome to your new bike.
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Can you find your old post? Sometime things just dont click...I saw posts about it before but for some reason now...I might just go ahead and do it.

This is the part # right?

Xerces I found it...thanks for the info http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1459140#post1459140

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#11 ·
WaynesNside said:
Can you find your old post? Sometime things just dont click...I saw posts about it before but for some reason now...I might just go ahead and do it.

This is the part # right?
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Here's a link to the thread which discusses the wave washer fix. It contains the posts with part numbers:

Main post:
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108198

Part Numbers:
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1438811&postcount=79

Steps:
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1459140&postcount=96

Hopefully someone else can post up a link to Stocky's original thread on clutch improvement.
 
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#12 ·
Xerces said:
Hopefully someone else can post up a link to Stocky's original thread on clutch improvement.
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Thanks again!

Cool I'm going to take my time and read through these. I didn't think I had any of the problems some guys had so I never thought I needed to do it. I need a project to do now and it might as well be messing with the bike to improve it's performance.

Here's Stocky's old post. http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96296

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#14 ·
The holes were kind of a bitch, I thought. This is because you can't easily seperate the "basket" fromt the "flywheel" (they're called different things in the service manual). So you have to drill blind, and hope you get all the metal chips out from between the basket and the flywheel. I just drilled while running the nozzle of the vacuum close to the bit, and then blew out the holes and the gap between the basket and the flywheel with 120psi air.

Also, it's VERY obvious where to drill the holes once you have the basket/flywheel assembly out of the bike.

And you definitely don't need the clutch tool to remove stuff, just put the bike in gear and hold the rear brake.
 
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#15 ·
RLarsen said:
The holes were kind of a bitch, I thought. This is because you can't easily seperate the "basket" fromt the "flywheel" (they're called different things in the service manual). So you have to drill blind, and hope you get all the metal chips out from between the basket and the flywheel. I just drilled while running the nozzle of the vacuum close to the bit, and then blew out the holes and the gap between the basket and the flywheel with 120psi air.

Also, it's VERY obvious where to drill the holes once you have the basket/flywheel assembly out of the bike.

And you definitely don't need the clutch tool to remove stuff, just put the bike in gear and hold the rear brake.
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So just drill the holes opposite of the three already there?

Thanks for your help!

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#16 ·
That part with all the grooves on the outside technically isn't the "basket" (all the plates and fibers go on the outside of that. It's the part underneath (that has the "fingers" you can see near the edge of the picture) that you want to drill the holes in. The holes are about 1/8" in diameter, and there are clear casting marks where the other 3 should be.

This thread has what you want, Wayne:

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94826
 
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#17 ·
RLarsen said:
That part with all the grooves on the outside technically isn't the "basket" (all the plates and fibers go on the outside of that. It's the part underneath (that has the "fingers" you can see near the edge of the picture) that you want to drill the holes in. The holes are about 1/8" in diameter, and there are clear casting marks where the other 3 should be.

This thread has what you want, Wayne:

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94826
Click to expand...
Ok yeah...now I see...and here's the lifter that needs to be greased right?

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#18 ·
Yep, I used brake caliper grease (not disc brake wheel bearing grease), the super high temp stuff that you use to grease the actual caliper parts. Just make sure it has molybdenum disulfide in it. I think the ARP fastener lube works too. I greased both pieces of the lifter (the ramp sections, not the whole piece), and the dogs that it engages the clutch piece with.
 
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#22 ·
No, you don't NEED to change the 6 clutch springs (although you're welcome to if you want) to get the improved feel. You need to buy the spring washer for the 2006 GSXR 750, part number: 21472-41G10

It will be obvious where it goes once you have the clutch plates out.
 
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#23 ·
k6zook1k said:
If it's a common problem shouldnt the Suzuki dealer repair it for free?
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"Should" and "will" are two different things. Most dealers have a tendancy to blame the riders since Suzuki hasn't officially acknowledge fault. To me, and since I look at time as money, its cheaper for me to just order the $20 in parts and spend an hours worth of time fixing it myself. That way I know its done right and I don't have to deal with Suzuki or my dealer, which would definitely take more than an hour of my time.
 
#24 ·
Xerces said:
"Should" and "will" are two different things. Most dealers have a tendancy to blame the riders since Suzuki hasn't officially acknowledge fault. To me, and since I look at time as money, its cheaper for me to just order the $20 in parts and spend an hours worth of time fixing it myself. That way I know its done right and I don't have to deal with Suzuki or my dealer, which would definitely take more than an hour of my time.
Click to expand...
Gotcha, thats a good call, I've seen some of the goon mechanics at the Suzuki dealer, and I dont think I would let them touch a ten speed let alone my gixxer.
 
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