[bartNOR]

I have a 11/88 750... Getting my bike out after winter storage...

I Charged the batterey and when I went to start, it was a little slow to crank. So I took the battery out and charged it again, battery is reading at 12.4. I put it back in the bike and now... nothing. I can not be certain but when I turned the key I may have heard a click, like a fuse going.

No oil or neutral light or headlight or taillight. It seems totally dead.

I have checked the Fuses under the seat in the white box and they are all good. They are all 10 amp. Looking at the workshop manual it says there is a curcuit breaker also in the curuit there somewhere. But I cant find it.

I have seen in anther threads some people talking about a 20 or 30 amp fuse, like a main fuse.

I cant seem to find the info I need in the workshop manual. If anyone can suggest where the main fuse is that would be awesome... or if the only fuses are under the seat, then I can stop looking:grin2:

Any other suggestions would be appreciated, I'm a little stumped, but after putting on new tyres and rebuilding the rear caliper to be good for the new season I'm pretty keen to get it going.

Thanks:grin2:

 

[nokturnal]

only fuses are under the seat. one of them is the main.

silly question, but the battery terminal bolts are tight?

 

[bartNOR]

yeah Tight as... It's not like its just slow to crank, its completely dead. It turned over slow so I removed the battery to charge it. Put it back in and absoletly nothing. tested the battery and it has charge so its definately something in the curcuit.

I was reading a another thread a guy had a similar problem on the main fuse on a later model but it was a 30 amp fuse. There is nothing under the seat over 10 amps. That seems strange to me, man electrical problem are the worst...

 

[bartNOR]

Ok so I found the curcuit breaker but the button is in, I tested it and there is 0 resistance...

If anyone has any Ideas it would be very much appreciated. I put the battery back in and I'm sure there was sonme clicking for a couple of seconds when I turned the key this morning, but no lights no start :-(

 

[mark_E]

If your battery, fuses and circuit breaker are good then it can only be bad connections or faulty ignition sw. Check your main earth from battery negative.

 

[bartNOR]

Thanks mark, I've moved past this. It was just build up on the ternimals. The bike is cranking now but still no go. I have tested the coils and have 3.2 Ohms across the terminals.

When I test from from spark leads (with the plug sockets removed) 1 to 2 and from 3 to 4 I get 14.6K.

If I test the leads with the pulg sockets attached its 38K except I have found one socket makes the read out 70K. I moved it around to Isolate the one doing it. The other 3 just give me 38K whatever combo I use.

I dont know what this means but I'm guessing I need a new plug socket.

Anyone with any advice on any of it including the resistance ranges would be awesome

 

[mark_E]

Specs and test procedure are in the manual. From memory the 3,2ohms sound good as does the ~40k. The 70k doesn't but easy to get a bad reading due to bad contact with meter probes. Have you physically checked to see if you are getting spark by cranking with the plugs out? I would probably throw those spark plugs out and get new ones. Easy to foul plugs on these.

 

[bartNOR]

Thanks Mark for the reply,

Spark plugs are brand new, I changed them when I brought the bike out of storage.
I have tried to check the spark visually but it hard to get an earth on the bike, I will try it again tomorrow.
The one spark plug cap gave me a 60-70K reading no matter where I put it. I have measured it enough to think something is not right with it. All the others where 38K.

So I have New Fuel, I emptied the bowels before I stored it and now they are full so its getting fuel.

New spark plugs battery reads at 12.7-12.9 Volts and the coils test within limits except for the one spark plug cap. But I dont get a single fire. I would of thought it would of atleast fired if its only the one faulty cap.

 

[mark_E]

Yes it would at least be trying to fire and that you would hear it. If stock coils and leads (?) those plug caps screw onto the leads. Make sure the caps are screwed on reasonably tight. If you are getting spark at the plugs (ground plug thread on engine valve cover while cranking), are you getting fuel i.e are the plugs wet when you remove them? They should be visibly wet and should smell of fuel.(and/or is fuel ejected when you crank it with the plug out? - be aware of this btw, don't stand with your face over plug hole)



Is there any reason to believe you have lost timing or compression?



At this stage I would probably be cranking this over using a known good car battery (removed from car) - the extra capacity will help.

 

[bartNOR]

I finally got a new park plug cap, everything tested within range. I checked visually for spark like you said and I have none. I had a loose wire on one of the CDI terminals, I fixed that but still no spark.???

 

[mark_E]

Test to see if you have 12v at ignitor. Test to see if you have 12v on coil lv side (you need to go to battery -ve for that test. Test resistance of signal generator.

 

[LegalDazza]

May be a silly thought, but is 12.4v slightly low? Some one correct me if I'm wrong, but I think a healthy battery should read somewhere around 13.5v. Maybe you just aren't generating enough power from the battery, do you happen to have a spare anywhere that has more than 12.4v on?