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When people say that, they are just refering to the oil that came in the engine. It is not intended to mean a different type of oil, just the oil that the engine first ran with.
 
hahahahahaha, slanted, you made me laugh! :lol

everyone one misunderstands stuff from time to time, so don't feel too bad about it!!! i appreciate the fact that you admitted your mistake! :punk

in your defence, the should be a "break in" oil that would specifically help your motor during it's highly stressful break in. this is a sensible proposition. :cool
 
I do mine as soon as getting home from the dealer, while hot. Then at 200,500,1000 with new filter. You could skip the 200, but these first changes are the most important for the engine. Break in metal and what ever was left inside from factory gets flushed out. Good luck:cheers
 
perhaps a special break in oil filter might be more plausible than some sort of break in oil. no matter what oil you use it will get dirty. perhaps a special break in oil filter could filter out some dirt and metal particles???
 
Break-in oil is just standard oil that the manufactuer puts in the car or bike. It's not the premium oils that we all choose. You could consider standard oil (non synthetic) as break in oil, as we are all aware that synthetic oil is not recomended for new engines. The "break-in oil" is probably the cheapest oil that minimally meets the standards of the engine, as manufatuers need to keep thier costs down to create the high quality yet affordable products. So in this essence, I would say that standard oil can be construed as break in oil!!
 
I find it interesting to note that although oil is recommended to change quite often, why does the Suzuki manual only recommend to change the filter at 600 miles, then the next one is all the way at 11,000 miles.

Damn all the money I've been wasting on oil filters, huh? When all this time I could have just been draining and refilling the oil?
 
From memory, there is a break in oil for cars. Its really thin and is a mineral based oil. Im not sure how this would go with forged pistons and moly rings!

Using a good quality non friction modified mineral oil is the only way to go for run in.

Dump it after the first 50-100 as mentioned to empty the shavings then Dump it and change the filter as soon as it gets black.

Road bikes go through heat cycles so thats not so much of an issue.

As for running in engines hard, im not a fan of it and have stripped engines after they have run in hard (as they were down on power and never right). Its debatable and one that will probably be a topic in 50 years!

Generally, the service manual suggestions for running in is about right. Even from 2000 to 2500 you will feel it free up a little more.

If you want a free oil change, leave it until they do the clutch mod. I plan to do this in a couple of weeks which should tie me over until the first synthetic change.
 
Oh, and by the way. If you have black oil and leave the filter on, you will find your oil will go black very, very quickly. I.e on first start up!

On a bike with under 7,000 klm changing the oil and filter means the oil should stay pretty clear for atleast 1000 klm. I had one bike that stayed clear for 2,000 klm of mixed riding!
 
its not called break in oil. But yes you do use it during the break in process. Its called Suzuki 10w 40 mineral oil which is OEM and run standard in every new bike. Just clarifying :)
 
You should use a motorcycle 10w40 oil. Honda, Kaw, Suz (not sure if Yam makes one). Any of these will do.
 
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