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2022 GSX-R 1000R
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello all, new member here with a brand new bike, 3 weeks in so far, 18 gsxr 750 with only 3,00 miles, and wow, what an insane difference and jump coming out of a ninja 400. So Ive been looking around and can't seem to understand or make a decision on which quickshifter to get and how they work, I do seem to be leaning towards more to this FTECU kit because it looks like a power commander isn't required, however, in the photos, what would those connecters even connect to? Also, I will be getting a cat delete/midpipe done, so while I get the quickshifter and midpipe installed, the bike will be getting a dyno tune and ECU flash to accommodate the cat delete and new quickshifter, but I'm mainly posting this thread to understand how installing it works, ive went on google and youtube and still can't seem to find any videos on it with the gsxr 750, id prefer it over the healtech side because I just want a install and forget it product, not no bluetooth or phone stuff. I just want to ride and go.
 
the QS sensor, is installed to the shift rod
the sensor has a connector to an interface socket to the ECU to ignition

The FTECU kit requires an FTECU flashed ECU

There are other aftermarket QS that standalone.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
the QS sensor, is installed to the shift rod
the sensor has a connector to an interface socket to the ECU to ignition

The FTECU kit requires an FTECU flashed ECU

There are other aftermarket QS that standalone.
hmm, so based on this, it looks like the FTECU would be the way to go, also since it needs to get tuned and flashed with the cat delete and midpipe, another question, instead of making a new thread, the FTECU kit Quickshift sensor does come with a bidirectional quickshifter so the sensor itself is capable of autoblipping, clutchless downshitfting, however is the gsxr 750 able to utilize this feature somehow? I was told by some people, yes, and others say no due to the fly by cable and not wire, anyway possible to make it work with the FTECU?
 
hmm, so based on this, it looks like the FTECU would be the way to go, also since it needs to get tuned and flashed with the cat delete and midpipe, another question, instead of making a new thread, the FTECU kit Quickshift sensor does come with a bidirectional quickshifter so the sensor itself is capable of autoblipping, clutchless downshitfting, however is the gsxr 750 able to utilize this feature somehow? I was told by some people, yes, and others say no due to the fly by cable and not wire, anyway possible to make it work with the FTECU?
I have read and heard some not so good things about FTECU. I would do some more research and look elsewhere for a QS.
 
Hello all, new member here with a brand new bike, 3 weeks in so far, 18 gsxr 750 with only 3,00 miles, and wow, what an insane difference and jump coming out of a ninja 400. So Ive been looking around and can't seem to understand or make a decision on which quickshifter to get and how they work, I do seem to be leaning towards more to this FTECU kit because it looks like a power commander isn't required, however, in the photos, what would those connecters even connect to? Also, I will be getting a cat delete/midpipe done, so while I get the quickshifter and midpipe installed, the bike will be getting a dyno tune and ECU flash to accommodate the cat delete and new quickshifter, but I'm mainly posting this thread to understand how installing it works, ive went on google and youtube and still can't seem to find any videos on it with the gsxr 750, id prefer it over the healtech side because I just want a install and forget it product, not no bluetooth or phone stuff. I just want to ride and go.
I’ve been using a Bazzaz QS on my L2 750 for years. Works great and is stand alone. I manually blip for downshifts with no problems.
 
The Healtech system is probably the simplest one. You're going to have to make some adjustments to the kill times and the Bluetooth app is the easiest way. It's always sold out whenever I check for it though.

FTECU is trash. Know that if you use their system your ECU is locked to it from there on out.

I've heard good things about Annitori.

If you're going the full dyno route I'd suggest finding a Woolich tuner near you and scooping up their race kit.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
The Healtech system is probably the simplest one. You're going to have to make some adjustments to the kill times and the Bluetooth app is the easiest way. It's always sold out whenever I check for it though.

FTECU is trash. Know that if you use their system your ECU is locked to it from there on out.

I've heard good things about Annitori.

If you're going the full dyno route I'd suggest finding a Woolich tuner near you and scooping up their race kit.
Yeah, I just read a little more into the ftecu and you seem to be right, I don't want me ecu to be locked like that with them or their software, I saw really good reviews and almost no complaints with the annatori, but they do use a bluetooth interface, but do I always have to have my phone with me when I ride in order to use the quickshifter? And does it always need to be connected to the device? Or is it only just for setting up and customizing it? I can still use the annatori quickshifter witihout actually having to be connected to it via bluetooth?
 
Not all QS are the same.

The Annitori BT app is to program the QS settings, does not need to be connected all the time.

There are better (subjective) QS that advertises 'seamless shift' the mimics the sequential gearboxes in GP bikes. HM, IRC, Translogic comes to mind. These QS have piggyback modules that need to be tucked away on/in the bike.
 
I had the Bazzaz on my old(er) race bikes, and it worked flawlessly…
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I mentioned IRC above. you can try this:
Oh wow I didn't even know that's possible, I didn't see that link, almost 900 and still got to pay for installation too, I appreciate the link! Going to stick with annitori and manually blip and practice rev matching in the meantime! I'm curious as to why brands make aftermarket quickshifters for bikes that already have them from the factory, like a 2015+r1, 2019+ 636, gsxr1000r and s1000rr when they all already have them from the factory
 
Hello all, new member here with a brand new bike, 3 weeks in so far, 18 gsxr 750 with only 3,00 miles, and wow, what an insane difference and jump coming out of a ninja 400. So Ive been looking around and can't seem to understand or make a decision on which quickshifter to get and how they work, I do seem to be leaning towards more to this FTECU kit because it looks like a power commander isn't required, however, in the photos, what would those connecters even connect to? Also, I will be getting a cat delete/midpipe done, so while I get the quickshifter and midpipe installed, the bike will be getting a dyno tune and ECU flash to accommodate the cat delete and new quickshifter, but I'm mainly posting this thread to understand how installing it works, ive went on google and youtube and still can't seem to find any videos on it with the gsxr 750, id prefer it over the healtech side because I just want a install and forget it product, not no bluetooth or phone stuff. I just want to ride and go.
Woolich all day if you wanna go cheaper Annitori
 
One word, Translogic!
Fully stand alone, fit it and forget about it.
I’ve got 2 of them on my bikes and they’ve been great, settings were perfect straight out of the box but there is an option to get in and change stuff. If you decide to.
There is no electronic auto blipper options for these bikes currently.
Many have suggested the woolich option, the only problem with that is you can’t switch between race and road shift without getting someone to change setting in the bikes ecu.
With the translogic system you can change between road-shift and race-shift by changing a plug in the loom and switching the linkage round. This was particularly handy for me as after 25 years of road-shift I decided it was time to try race-shift as I mostly ride on track these days. Personally I hated it, changed the wrong way a few times and the final straw was on a trackday when I missed a gear at about 180kph and got clipped by someone going a lot faster than me that hadn’t given me as much room as he should have.
 
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