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Which Quick Shifter?

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#23 ·
Excuse me, I didn't see your reply.
Yes, I come down a couple of times a year. I was there for coaching in January and went to Wakefield for the first time too. Next time will be Saturday June 23rd (hopefully) at Eastern Creek. I might do the Friday too if I can't be bothered to drive to Wakefield.

I don't know that I am expert enough to differentiate between the finer points of the quickshifters, but I do remember thinking the Bazzaz was smooth after fitting. It has adjustable kill times for each gear change, which I like. Of course having fuel management and traction control is quite handy too.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
A brief update on the translogic, I have only spent about 150km of daily riding on it.

It's surprisingly smooth, in the lower rpm 3.5-5k rpm(doesnt activate under 3k). Gear 1-2 in that range does require you to Preload the shift lever (if you dont anyway for every gear) however the other gears you can just bang them in no problems even in that rpm range.

I haven't really taken it to redline having only been riding on the street, but the higher I've been revving it the smoother it gets.

Top quality product and comes with all the required bits to install. Definitely recommend it. Will post again once I can take it track to stretch it out a bit.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
I've done a fair few Kms now, a mixture of riding, using the bike as a daily, I've done at least 50, 10 second passes down the 1/4 as well during this time. Great product, quality item. I've found putting my foot right up on the shift lever, taking out the slack and adding some pressure just before actually shifting nets the best results, especially between 1st and 2nd. Between other gears I can literally just tap it up and it shifts like butter, even without pretensioning the shift lever.

I've been meaning to play around with the shift times for the upper Rev ranges just to see if it makes it any better however, it is very nice out of the box.

I've ridden others back to back with this unit (woolich, also great unit) and this one is definitely a lot smoother, feels like an OEM unit.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
nosurrenda said:
GSXRISSA said:
It gets better, I've shortened the times up, its even crispier.
Click to expand...
Would love to know how you did that. I find that sharp quick taps from 2nd on works best. My technique is still poor so I'm getting a few rough shifts.
Click to expand...
Changing the 'kill times' the first time is daunting but once you start its quite easy. Go to their website and download the instructions, it'll be easier than me trying to explain it.

Between 1st and 2nd, you definitely should take up the slack/pretension the shift rod prior to actually making the shift(you should do this regardless) but for 2nd-3rd onwards literally a very light tap on the lever and it goes up a gear, just make sure your over 3000rpm, the higher the better.
 
Discussion starter · #28 · (Edited)
I've played with the shifting times a little more and got a few more kms on the seat.

Try these settings and let me know how you go:
Sensitivity standard 5 flashes (leave as is)
Band 1* 3-5k 6 flashes (58ms) default is 10 flashes
Band 2* 5-7k 6 flashes (58ms)
Band 3* 7-9k 3 flashes (52ms)
Band 4* 9-11k 1 flash (46ms)
Band 5* 11+k 1 flash (46ms)

Standard 10 flashes is 66ms kill/cut time, each flash is equal to 2ms.

It definitely feels as though the sensor has some other inputs, as when I wear boots it shifts differently then when I am wearing shoes.

For shifts between gear 1 and 2 it definitely works a lot better when the slack is taken out of the lever and pressure is applied before making the shifts (you should shift like this even without a qs), for other gears not so much of an issue.

All of this really only matters when it's under 4000-5000rpms, above that it's just about always smooth regardless how you shift. It's not an issue considering even factory qs are not smooth around that rpm.
 
#29 ·
GSXRISSA said:
Between 1st and 2nd, you definitely should take up the slack/pretension the shift rod prior to actually making the shift (you should do this regardless)...
Click to expand...
I am curious as to how you do this. I have a Bazzaz unit, and I have not altered the sensitivity from how it was shipped. I am having to somewhat change my riding style as I am used to pre-loading the lever. With the QS, as soon as I get near it, it will kill the ignition, sometimes without shifting as I never really moved the lever or at least not enough. I am trying to get used to staying away from the lever until I want to shift, and then bumping it very deliberately so that the lever moves enough to actually make the shift and not just kill the ignition.

Do you have your sensitivity turned way down? We may be comparing apples to oranges since we are using different systems.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
MadViking said:
GSXRISSA said:
Between 1st and 2nd, you definitely should take up the slack/pretension the shift rod prior to actually making the shift (you should do this regardless)...
Click to expand...
I am curious as to how you do this. I have a Bazzaz unit, and I have not altered the sensitivity from how it was shipped. I am having to somewhat change my riding style as I am used to pre-loading the lever. With the QS, as soon as I get near it, it will kill the ignition, sometimes without shifting as I never really moved the lever or at least not enough. I am trying to get used to staying away from the lever until I want to shift, and then bumping it very deliberately so that the lever moves enough to actually make the shift and not just kill the ignition.

Do you have your sensitivity turned way down? We may be comparing apples to oranges since we are using different systems.
Click to expand...
The Bazzaz is a different animal, I have used one, they good piece of kit, you just sometimes need to play with the settings.

They have an adjuster that is separate to the control unit, it just had a positive and negative button. Turn the sensitivity down and try it, keep doing it until it needs a firm push on the lever to trigger. You don't want it too firm, or too soft, there is a sweets spot you'll have to find through testing.

The Translogic unit came with the right sensitivity settings out of the box for me.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
nosurrenda said:
Cheers, I'll give your settings a crack on the weekend. I told Translogic about the abruptness I'm getting, usually from 2nd to 3rd. They recommended the following settings:

Sensor force: Default 5 flashes
Band 1: 13 flashes
Band 2: 12 flashes
Band 3: 11 flashes
Band 4: 10 flashes
Band 5: 10 flashes

I'e also changed to GP shift, which I prefer over street pattern. Translogic also said to make sure the gearbox is loaded up.
I find being aggressive with the throttle and not over thinking it works the best. I suspect the abrupt 2nd to 3rd shift is characteristic of my bike. I trust this product and have full confidence it's not destroying my gearbox!
Click to expand...
Glad to hear they're helping you work through it.

At what RPM's are you shifting? does the abruptness happen regardless of the RPM you shift?
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
nosurrenda said:
All RPM really... But good news. On the way to work this morning I gave it a few roll ons 2nd to 3rd and realised the issue is 90% me. It was the way I was shifting. I think I've got it nailed now. All it requires is a concise tap, just like you said. Appreciate your help.
Click to expand...
You're welcome, I'm glad I could help.

let me know how you like the other settings if you end up using them.
 
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GSXRISSA
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