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Check light on 2006 GSXR 1000

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19K views 21 replies 6 participants last post by  rudi  
#1 · (Edited)
I know there are a million thread's regarding this issue, but non of them has my answer.

I have a 2006 GSXR 1000 which I am helping a friend fix. The short story. They were out on the track. As he came into the pits, the bike switched off and showed the "Check" on the dash. Pushed it down the pit lane and from there it is dead. NO THE BIKE IS NOT STOLEN...
The Fuel pump does not prime or anything. Please note there are no FI errors on the dash.

I have checked the following:

Kill switch
Side stand switch
Ignition
Tip over sensor
Fuel pump relay
Neutral switch
Fuses
Clutch switch
ECU
There is no "while block type plug" in the tail of the bike.

Is there anything else I am missing here??
 
#2 ·
Slaki said:
Please note there are no FI errors on the dash.

I have checked the following:

Kill switch
Side stand switch
Ignition
Tip over sensor
Fuel pump relay
Neutral switch
Fuses
Clutch switch
ECU
There is no "while block type plug" in the tail of the bike.

Is there anything else I am missing here??
Click to expand...
How do you know there are no FI codes? When the bike says "CHEC" you can't get the bike in dealer mode unless you have/have access to the SDS, I'm just curious. And I have no idea what a "while block type plug" is, never heard that mentioned before. The dash will show "CHEC" if the cluster doesn't get a signal from the the ECU for 5 seconds or more. That leads to burnt wiring and/or ECU not functioning.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Samantha750 said:
How do you know there are no FI codes? When the bike says "CHEC" you can't get the bike in dealer mode unless you have/have access to the SDS, I'm just curious. .
Click to expand...
That is exactly what I ment. On numerous threads, people asked the question if there are any FI codes and as you said, you cant see due to the check light, so I just mentioned it so people don't say I have to do that.

Samantha750 said:
And I have no idea what a "while block type plug" is, never heard that mentioned before. .
Click to expand...
"White block type plug" - Help with GSXR 1000 K5 'CHEC' code

Hope that topic helps.

Samantha750 said:
The dash will show "CHEC" if the cluster doesn't get a signal from the the ECU for 5 seconds or more. That leads to burnt wiring and/or ECU not functioning.
Click to expand...
So my next step would be to try and replace harness?? nothing else I can check?
 
D
#3 ·
Also, how have you checked all those parts? 'CHEC' usually means you aren't getting any power to the ECU, which again usually is due to either a fuse, or failure of some component of the interlock, i.e. sidestand switch, sidestand relay, engine stop switch (killswitch) or perhaps the neutral switch. If you've checked all that, that would only leave the possibility of wiring problems. I'd recommend first probing the O/W wire at the dealer mode coupler and the negative battery pole with a DMM in voltage mode. If the bike is ready to run (sidestand up or neutral, engine stop switch on "RUN", etc.) you should find battery voltage there. If you don't, probe the O/W wire at the engine stop switch. Depending of where you find voltage or not, you should be able to figure out where to look next.
 
#6 ·
Thanx for that tip. Will try that next.


Kill switch - used multi meter to check continuity when on and off position
Side stand switch - used multi meter to check continuity when on and off position
Ignition - used multi meter to check continuity when on and off position
Tip over sensor - swopped with one off a working bike
Fuel pump relay - swopped with one off a working bike
Neutral switch - visible on dash when in neutral and off when in gear
Fuses - multi meter and new fuses
Clutch switch - used multi meter to check continuity
ECU - swopped with a flashed one.
 
#8 ·
Running out of gas will have the CHEC come on. Does the pump run even when out of fuel? You are assuming there is gas in the tank...

When you shut the bike off any FI codes are cleared. You have to start the bike again to get any codes; the FI light will illuminate IF there are any codes.
 
B
#14 ·
"So checked this. O/W to positive (not negative as suggested) gives me my 12.5V. Both at the switch as well as the dealer plug. On Negative it shows 0 V."

Something's not right. You're not getting power to the ECM. With the ignition and STOP switches on (and the sidestand up or trans in neutral), the voltage between the O/W and B/W leads of the dealer mode connector should be 12V, as it should also be between the O/W and the negative battery terminal. This should be easy to track down using the diagram on 9-12 of the service manual. How did you check the fuses? They can be bad but look OK. Maybe the battery is hooked up backwards.
 
#16 ·
BillV said:
"So checked this. O/W to positive (not negative as suggested) gives me my 12.5V. Both at the switch as well as the dealer plug. On Negative it shows 0 V."

Something's not right. You're not getting power to the ECM. With the ignition and STOP switches on, the voltage between the O/W and B/W leads of the dealer mode connector should be 12V, as it should also be between the O/W and the negative battery terminal. This should be easy to track down using the figure on 9-12 of the service manual. How did you check the fuses? They can be bad but look OK. Maybe the battery is hooked up backwards.
Click to expand...
I find that last comment funny, but I see your point. anything is possible :laugh: I am positive that positive is positive HAHAHAHA...

I will have a look at 9-12 and see what I can find. Fuses were checked for continuity as well as swopped out.
 
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