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Check light on 2006 GSXR 1000

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Slaki

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I know there are a million thread's regarding this issue, but non of them has my answer.

I have a 2006 GSXR 1000 which I am helping a friend fix. The short story. They were out on the track. As he came into the pits, the bike switched off and showed the "Check" on the dash. Pushed it down the pit lane and from there it is dead. NO THE BIKE IS NOT STOLEN...
The Fuel pump does not prime or anything. Please note there are no FI errors on the dash.

I have checked the following:

Kill switch
Side stand switch
Ignition
Tip over sensor
Fuel pump relay
Neutral switch
Fuses
Clutch switch
ECU
There is no "while block type plug" in the tail of the bike.

Is there anything else I am missing here??
 
#2 ·
Slaki said:
Please note there are no FI errors on the dash.

I have checked the following:

Kill switch
Side stand switch
Ignition
Tip over sensor
Fuel pump relay
Neutral switch
Fuses
Clutch switch
ECU
There is no "while block type plug" in the tail of the bike.

Is there anything else I am missing here??
Click to expand...
How do you know there are no FI codes? When the bike says "CHEC" you can't get the bike in dealer mode unless you have/have access to the SDS, I'm just curious. And I have no idea what a "while block type plug" is, never heard that mentioned before. The dash will show "CHEC" if the cluster doesn't get a signal from the the ECU for 5 seconds or more. That leads to burnt wiring and/or ECU not functioning.
 
#3 ·
Also, how have you checked all those parts? 'CHEC' usually means you aren't getting any power to the ECU, which again usually is due to either a fuse, or failure of some component of the interlock, i.e. sidestand switch, sidestand relay, engine stop switch (killswitch) or perhaps the neutral switch. If you've checked all that, that would only leave the possibility of wiring problems. I'd recommend first probing the O/W wire at the dealer mode coupler and the negative battery pole with a DMM in voltage mode. If the bike is ready to run (sidestand up or neutral, engine stop switch on "RUN", etc.) you should find battery voltage there. If you don't, probe the O/W wire at the engine stop switch. Depending of where you find voltage or not, you should be able to figure out where to look next.
 
Discussion starter · #4 · (Edited)
Samantha750 said:
How do you know there are no FI codes? When the bike says "CHEC" you can't get the bike in dealer mode unless you have/have access to the SDS, I'm just curious. .
Click to expand...
That is exactly what I ment. On numerous threads, people asked the question if there are any FI codes and as you said, you cant see due to the check light, so I just mentioned it so people don't say I have to do that.

Samantha750 said:
And I have no idea what a "while block type plug" is, never heard that mentioned before. .
Click to expand...
"White block type plug" - Help with GSXR 1000 K5 'CHEC' code

Hope that topic helps.

Samantha750 said:
The dash will show "CHEC" if the cluster doesn't get a signal from the the ECU for 5 seconds or more. That leads to burnt wiring and/or ECU not functioning.
Click to expand...
So my next step would be to try and replace harness?? nothing else I can check?
 
#5 ·
1. Did he simply run out of gas?



2. Read the 'For Example' section at the bottom of this doc.

Image




3. This is the white plug you use to get into dealer mode he is talking about.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
dpapavas said:
Also, how have you checked all those parts? 'CHEC' usually means you aren't getting any power to the ECU, which again usually is due to either a fuse, or failure of some component of the interlock, i.e. sidestand switch, sidestand relay, engine stop switch (killswitch) or perhaps the neutral switch. If you've checked all that, that would only leave the possibility of wiring problems. I'd recommend first probing the O/W wire at the dealer mode coupler and the negative battery pole with a DMM in voltage mode. If the bike is ready to run (sidestand up or neutral, engine stop switch on "RUN", etc.) you should find battery voltage there. If you don't, probe the O/W wire at the engine stop switch. Depending of where you find voltage or not, you should be able to figure out where to look next.
Click to expand...
Thanx for that tip. Will try that next.


Kill switch - used multi meter to check continuity when on and off position
Side stand switch - used multi meter to check continuity when on and off position
Ignition - used multi meter to check continuity when on and off position
Tip over sensor - swopped with one off a working bike
Fuel pump relay - swopped with one off a working bike
Neutral switch - visible on dash when in neutral and off when in gear
Fuses - multi meter and new fuses
Clutch switch - used multi meter to check continuity
ECU - swopped with a flashed one.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Chocolate_Rain said:
1. Did he simply run out of gas?



2. Read the 'For Example' section at the bottom of this doc.

Image




3. This is the white plug you use to get into dealer mode he is talking about.

Image
Click to expand...
All the "for example" issues I have checked as I mentioned. Also not able to retrieve FI codes... GAS is besides the point. It wont cause a "check" error and the fuel pump would prime...
 
#8 ·
Running out of gas will have the CHEC come on. Does the pump run even when out of fuel? You are assuming there is gas in the tank...

When you shut the bike off any FI codes are cleared. You have to start the bike again to get any codes; the FI light will illuminate IF there are any codes.
 
#9 ·
Chocolate_Rain said:
1. Did he simply run out of gas?



2. Read the 'For Example' section at the bottom of this doc.

Image




3. This is the white plug you use to get into dealer mode he is talking about.

Image
Click to expand...
Can't say I remember that being called "white type plug" as 'round these parts, we call it the "dealer mode plug" unless being descriptive of what the plugs looks like?
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
dpapavas said:
Also, how have you checked all those parts? 'CHEC' usually means you aren't getting any power to the ECU, which again usually is due to either a fuse, or failure of some component of the interlock, i.e. sidestand switch, sidestand relay, engine stop switch (killswitch) or perhaps the neutral switch. If you've checked all that, that would only leave the possibility of wiring problems. I'd recommend first probing the O/W wire at the dealer mode coupler and the negative battery pole with a DMM in voltage mode. If the bike is ready to run (sidestand up or neutral, engine stop switch on "RUN", etc.) you should find battery voltage there. If you don't, probe the O/W wire at the engine stop switch. Depending of where you find voltage or not, you should be able to figure out where to look next.
Click to expand...
So checked this. O/W to positive (not negative as suggested) gives me my 12.5V. Both at the switch as well as the dealer plug. On Negative it shows 0 V.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Chocolate_Rain said:
Running out of gas will have the CHEC come on. Does the pump run even when out of fuel? You are assuming there is gas in the tank...

When you shut the bike off any FI codes are cleared. You have to start the bike again to get any codes; the FI light will illuminate IF there are any codes.
Click to expand...
in the 20 years of riding Suzuki I have never had the check light come on when running out of gas??? Never even heard of this. The pump does not prime at all.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Samantha750 said:
Can't say I remember that being called "white type plug" as 'round these parts, we call it the "dealer mode plug" unless being descriptive of what the plugs looks like?
Click to expand...
Samantha. I know this is the dealer mode plug. I never said I was referring to this plug. I referred to the link I posted... (this one ->)Help with GSXR 1000 K5 'CHEC' code
 
#13 ·
Slaki said:
Samantha. I know this is the dealer mode plug. I never said I was referring to this plug. I referred to the link I posted... (this one ->)Help with GSXR 1000 K5 'CHEC' code
Click to expand...
I never said you were referring to this plug, if you notice, I quoted chocolate_rain and was replying to him, hence why I quoted him and not you. He said you were referring to the dealer mode plug, not me. Running out of gas wont cause "CHEC" light to come on. If you are positive that it is not your TOS, I would say maybe the rectifier crapped out and caused over charging that caused wiring harness damage and/or fried the ecu. Do you know anyone who can let you swap their ecu and see if it corrects the problem? Other than that, I'm out as I don't know what else you could check.
 
#14 ·
"So checked this. O/W to positive (not negative as suggested) gives me my 12.5V. Both at the switch as well as the dealer plug. On Negative it shows 0 V."

Something's not right. You're not getting power to the ECM. With the ignition and STOP switches on (and the sidestand up or trans in neutral), the voltage between the O/W and B/W leads of the dealer mode connector should be 12V, as it should also be between the O/W and the negative battery terminal. This should be easy to track down using the diagram on 9-12 of the service manual. How did you check the fuses? They can be bad but look OK. Maybe the battery is hooked up backwards.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Samantha750 said:
I never said you were referring to this plug, if you notice, I quoted chocolate_rain and was replying to him, hence why I quoted him and not you. He said you were referring to the dealer mode plug, not me. Running out of gas wont cause "CHEC" light to come on. If you are positive that it is not your TOS, I would say maybe the rectifier crapped out and caused over charging that caused wiring harness damage and/or fried the ecu. Do you know anyone who can let you swap their ecu and see if it corrects the problem? Other than that, I'm out as I don't know what else you could check.
Click to expand...
My mistake. I do apologize. Thanx for the input. I will try and source one and let you guys know. Thanx again
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
BillV said:
"So checked this. O/W to positive (not negative as suggested) gives me my 12.5V. Both at the switch as well as the dealer plug. On Negative it shows 0 V."

Something's not right. You're not getting power to the ECM. With the ignition and STOP switches on, the voltage between the O/W and B/W leads of the dealer mode connector should be 12V, as it should also be between the O/W and the negative battery terminal. This should be easy to track down using the figure on 9-12 of the service manual. How did you check the fuses? They can be bad but look OK. Maybe the battery is hooked up backwards.
Click to expand...
I find that last comment funny, but I see your point. anything is possible :laugh: I am positive that positive is positive HAHAHAHA...

I will have a look at 9-12 and see what I can find. Fuses were checked for continuity as well as swopped out.
 
#17 ·
BillV said:
Something's not right. You're not getting power to the ECM. With the ignition and STOP switches on (and the sidestand up or trans in neutral), the voltage between the O/W and B/W leads of the dealer mode connector should be 12V, as it should also be between the O/W and the negative battery terminal. This should be easy to track down using the diagram on 9-12 of the service manual. How did you check the fuses? They can be bad but look OK. Maybe the battery is hooked up backwards.
Click to expand...
+1 to what Bill is saying. The fact that you measure battery voltage when probing O/W against the positive pole (make sure that you're measuring this right and are sure of it), means that not only has the ignition system +12V wire been severed at some point, it is now shorted to ground and acts as one. Unless you restore power to the ECU and possibly the other devices, which are after the point of failure of the O/W wire, you won't know if they're still working or have been fried.

If you measured the O/W at the dealer mode coupler and found it to be a ground, do the same at the engine stop switch and see what voltage you get there (against the negative an positive poles of the battery). If it's still a ground at that point, then you shouldn't be able to throw the engine stop switch to "RUN", without blowing your main 30A fuse, unless perhaps the sidestand relay is fried. If you find the O/W wire to be at +12V against the negative pole as it should at the stop switch, then use the wiring diagram to find where else the O/W goes betweeen the dealer mode and the stop switch (so PAIR solenoid, ignition coils, ECU, pump relay, etc.) and check it at each location to narrow down the point where the problem lies. Check each coupler for signs of burning/overheating as you go along.
 
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