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fivespoyshooter

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
After going down a couple months back I just started to fix my bike up for the track ONLY. Here is what I have and plan on doing tell me if i'm missing something or doing something wrong thanks.

Bike:
K6 1000
Suspension
Forks: new springs and valves for weight (racetech)
Shock: Matris race shock setup for correct weight
performance:
BAzzaz Fi QS (quick shift
Bazzaz ZAFM (Auto tuner)
Bazzaz Z-Bomb
520 chain conversion -1-+2
Other
Steal braided break lines
new pads
Rear tire 190/55
Vortex rear sets
Complete set SHARK SKINZ race plastics

PLANS
Remove kick stand

use the HI/low beam switch to switch between bazzaz maps


Anything I am missing and what do I need to safety wire?
 
WERA Rulebook.

a) The following item must be safety wired, or secured in a manner approved by Tech:
  • axles or axle nuts
  • oil filler caps
  • kickstarter retaining bolts
  • axle caps and/or pinch bolts
  • oil drain plug(s)
  • removable exhaust baffles
  • brake caliper bolts
  • oil gallery plugs
  • radiator caps
  • brake torque arms
  • oil lines
  • coolant drains
  • speedo and tach cables
  • spin on oil filters/filter bolts
  • any pressure fed lubricant line
  • fork oil drain screws/bolts
  • rear exhaust mount(s) (all)
  • brake pad retaining pins

:cheers
 
To be honest half the shit listed you really dont 'need' unless you really want it, totally up to you though. Most of the stuff isnt going to be needed untill you get fast. I'd say buy some good tires, get your suspension setup for your weight and put some race plastic on and see what happens and go from there. You can always save the money and spend it later if you so choose.. Riding skill is more so whats going to set you apart from anyone else.
 
having a 1000 as your first track bike is not a good idea.

either keep the 1k for the street, and get a second, smaller track bike, or sell the 1k and get a better, smaller track bike.

starting your track career on a 1000 is a very dumb idea, it will teach you next to nothing aside from how to be afraid of the throttle.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
After the crash and being out of work the 1000 is all I have everything listed is stuff I already have.

Forks, seat rails, subframe, and tank I found on ebay for less than 700 and Shark skinz were 900 all the work I'll do my self. In the future if I can pick up a 600 I will.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
After the crash and being out of work the 1000 is all I have everything listed is stuff I already have.

Forks, seat rails, subframe, and tank I found on ebay for less than 700 and Shark skinz were 900 all the work I'll do my self. In the future if I can pick up a 600 I will.
 
ok, so sell the 1k and get something smaller, trust me.
 
you could sell the 1k as ant mentioned and pick up a 600 or even better an sv650..... but, if your going to run the 1k for now you have more than you need. but dont "steal" anyones braided lines as that wouldnt be nice. just buy yourself a set of "steel" braided lines. ;)
 
Like the others have said:

Get your suspension set up for your weight, and get the valving for the forks IF you don't have sufficient damping with the stock internals. I'm not sure what a "Matris" shock is, but I know you can get a used Penske/Ohlins and get them refreshed fairly cheap. Suspension is EVERYTHING on a track bike.

If you can get a smaller bike (600cc), then I would go that route. Unless you're on a large track like Road America, the 1000cc bikes really don't have much of an advantage. Laptimes are all about corner speed, and braking skills. I get pulled on the straights, but then close in during the braking zone, and sometimes manage to pass liter bikes through the turns. And this is on a 12 year old gixxer 600. ;)

Whatever you decide to do, just make sure you get the basic down FIRST. Get your body position down, learn to be smooooth with the throttle, learn trail braking, and learn your lines. Always have some reserve lean angle, and brakes while you're learning. The skills you perfect early on will prevent mistakes from putting you on your ass later as the speeds increase. Liter bikes are less forgiving to inappropriate rider input.

Most important thing: Have fun and do what you want. :cool:
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
(He matris shock is not as well known in the states but its as good as the rest plus I got it new cheap. (He springs and valves are set to my weight of a light 330lbs.

If I was to sell the 1K how much could I get for it? I would just like to get a 600 with out spending any money

I would love to do an even swap but its hard to trust that there bike was not abused and is in good working order
 
(He matris shock is not as well known in the states but its as good as the rest plus I got it new cheap. (He springs and valves are set to my weight of a light 330lbs.

If I was to sell the 1K how much could I get for it? I would just like to get a 600 with out spending any money

I would love to do an even swap but its hard to trust that there bike was not abused and is in good working order
330?? is that a typo? Maybe the biggest performance enhancer would be to drop about 100lbs...lol
 
Discussion starter · #13 · (Edited)
Yeah 330 is correct so maybe I'll need to keep the 1000 I weigh almost 2X the. Adv. Rider. As far as weight loss goes it's a forever battle. I'm not trying to race in moto gp I just want make the best of what I have and weigh and have fun.

I have a 2yr old daughter and the roads are too much a risk for me.
 
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