ok so i just got learned on this molly thing with the full synthetic oils. im doing a clutch replacement tonight and now i dont know what oil to use... yeah ive searched this and yeah ive used many different oils but now im confused on this full synthetic thing. what should i use? i was just gonna go to cycle gear and pick up some castrol but now im thinking differently. i am stuck on what to get.. amsoil full synth 10w 40? rotella? of course its a wet clutch and im putting in barnett plates and springs tonight. im soaking the plates in plain jane 10w 40 right now. what should i do!??!??! :dunno
which oil, need help asap
blldawgbiker
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If you want synthetic the guys in the oil forums rave about these two oils and have many UOA's showing the oil is outstanding.
http://www.maximausa.com/products/4stroke/maxum4ultra5.asp
http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-motorcycle-oil
Some folks run the recommended 10W-40 and other want a bit more viscosity and run 20W50. It is up to you.
Like stated above spend some time in the oil forums as there are some serious guru's in there and lot's of UOA's of just about every oil on the market.
Keep in mind it is all BS until you see a UOA's or get one yourself.
Also the Rotella is damn good oil but it is not a motorcycle specif oil and that scares some away.
Try a few different oils till you find one that you get a good UOA out of and shifts good.
http://www.maximausa.com/products/4stroke/maxum4ultra5.asp
http://www.amsoil.com/a/synthetic-motorcycle-oil
Some folks run the recommended 10W-40 and other want a bit more viscosity and run 20W50. It is up to you.
Like stated above spend some time in the oil forums as there are some serious guru's in there and lot's of UOA's of just about every oil on the market.
Keep in mind it is all BS until you see a UOA's or get one yourself.
Also the Rotella is damn good oil but it is not a motorcycle specif oil and that scares some away.
Try a few different oils till you find one that you get a good UOA out of and shifts good.
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wow awesome, thanks guys. inside the Barnett box it said to only soak the plates in the same oil your putting in your bike first off, secondly it said to only soak them for 5-10 minutes and it would not benefit you to soak them for any longer. which i thought was wierd... ive always heard soak overnight. but anyways, i went ahead and bought some castrol part synth 10w-40 and a K&N filter from cycle gear (what ive been using). ill probably go to hardracing.com and get some amsoil after a 500 mile break in of the clutch... yeah im pretty anal about my bike.
as for the rotella t, i guess i still dont get all the details and my head technician talked me outta gettin it. its a diesel oil, so its my understanding that because our bikes run on gasoline and dont produce soot, running this oil will actually keep everything internally clean? and i gather that it doesnt matter if you break in a wet clutch on a motorcycle safe (no molly/modifiers) full synthetic? im pretty sold on the Amsoil just for the reputation alone i guess...
oh and by the way, after 24,000 miles with a relatively calm rider, everyone of my clutch plates were burnt the hell up (my frictions were sanded down and metals had 2-3 burnt spots on either side of every plate). which is wierd because i have only 'tried' to drag race it off a launch maybe 5 times. i do clutch up my wheelies every now and then though.. but who doesnt?...
as for the rotella t, i guess i still dont get all the details and my head technician talked me outta gettin it. its a diesel oil, so its my understanding that because our bikes run on gasoline and dont produce soot, running this oil will actually keep everything internally clean? and i gather that it doesnt matter if you break in a wet clutch on a motorcycle safe (no molly/modifiers) full synthetic? im pretty sold on the Amsoil just for the reputation alone i guess...
oh and by the way, after 24,000 miles with a relatively calm rider, everyone of my clutch plates were burnt the hell up (my frictions were sanded down and metals had 2-3 burnt spots on either side of every plate). which is wierd because i have only 'tried' to drag race it off a launch maybe 5 times. i do clutch up my wheelies every now and then though.. but who doesnt?...
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Boy I hope yours last longer than mine did... I put a barnett clutch kit in mine and it only lasted 6k and 2 track days and it was gone BEYOND toast.
Someone said something about not using car oil in the bikes, not to start a debate but I have over 30,000 miles on my 2001 CBR F4i and have used nothing but plain jane Castrol Syntec 10w40 since I bought it with 4,000 miles on it.. NEVER had a Problem with clutch or anything else in it
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Why is it that people think there is such a thing as, "car oil," and, "motorcycle oil?" There is NO difference, people!
To qualify, if the oil has friction modifiers in it, don't put it in your bike. That CAN mess up your clutch.
Use regular dino oil. Pennzoil, et al, works just fine. Synthetics DO make shifting a touch more smooth, but even with that minor plus, there isn't enough additional benefit to synthetic to justify it's use.
My opinion, of course!
--Wag--
To qualify, if the oil has friction modifiers in it, don't put it in your bike. That CAN mess up your clutch.
Use regular dino oil. Pennzoil, et al, works just fine. Synthetics DO make shifting a touch more smooth, but even with that minor plus, there isn't enough additional benefit to synthetic to justify it's use.
My opinion, of course!
--Wag--
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.
I was under the impression that having or not having friction modifiers in the oil is what makes it a "car oil" or a "motorcycle oil"?
:shifty
EXACTLY.
And there is more to it as well.
Automotive oil is formulated as a engine crankcase oil NOTHING ELSE.
Motorcycle oil is formulated for 3 jobs, a crankcaseoil, a transmission-gear oil, and a wet clutch oil.
In automotive engine oil, there is more "friction modifiers" to help lessen the amount of friction on engine components and improve-fuel-economy. This is what causes problems in Motorcycles, and causes clutch slippage.
Motorcycle oils use higher levels of anti-wear additives such as ZDDP, also known as phosphorous, to limit engine friction and wear on the transmission.
Other then all that.................. Yes they are the same exact thing.. Black Slipery liquid. :chucks
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hahaha finally the truth! :hammer: i knew there was a similarity between that black slippery stuff... now i put that in the tank right?? soooo there is a difference in motorcycle and car oil
:smackbottom and dont you forget it!
:smackbottom and dont you forget it!
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Not exactly. It only means that because of the way many motorcycle clutches are built that you shouldn't use it in those bikes. Read on.
Not even remotely true. "Engine oil." works just fine for all three jobs. The only difference in the "motorcycle oil" is that they put a crapload of marketing bullshit on the label in order to separate you from your money. Is it working? If so, then the only benefit is in the higher profit margins they make on the so-called, "motorcycle oil." Buy stock in those companies.
Motorcycles are built to use basic engine oil for all three purposes, not the other way around. Indeed, not all motorcycles have a wet clutch, either. In that case, it may be safe to assume that you CAN use oil with friction modifiers but not being 100% sure I'd have to double check. Is it no longer, "car oil," then?
This is only true in some oils. You can buy oil with or without friction modifiers. Just don't use oil with friction modifiers in your motorcycle if it has a wet clutch. Having friction modifiers does not make it, "car oil." Use it in your lawnmower or your chainsaw if you like!
100% true.
Again, feel free to use it in your car, lawnmower, etc. It still doesn't magically become, "motorcycle oil," because of the additives.
LMMFAO!
My complaint is not that some oils are better or worse than others for a given purpose, including for motorcycles. I just hate the use of the term, "motorcycle oil." It's a complete misnomer. In fact, go find some diesel engine oil and use that in your motorcycle. Ain't gonna cause you a problem unless it has friction modifiers in it.
--Wag--
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can we clear up the idea of using full synthetic during a bike and/or clutch break in? absolutly harmless? or use full synthetic after a couple hundred break in miles?
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i didnt see anything about break in man. could you point that out? we've covered every aspect of using full synthetic oil in a motorcycle, car, lawnmower, F-16, and fuckin choo choo train. everyone in memphis aparently thinks you should never ever break in a clutch with full synthetic oil, so i was just clearing that up for everyone. :chucks
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What do they think about assembly lube and dino oil?
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LMAO. :lmao
There is no reason NOT to use Full Syn. on your clutch.
The ONLY Reason you may be told not to use Full Syn. is when your breaking in a NEW MOTOR.
Conventional oil will allow better piston/ring/cylinder seating.
Traditionally Full Syn. is soo slick your piston rings won't seat as well.
That is the Theory.
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I just LOVE oil threads.....
:banghead
:banghead
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Opinions are like A'holes. Everyone has one. And they always will.
What's better Pizza or Pasta.?
What taste better Pepsi or Coke.?
Who's hotter, Angelina or Gisele Bundchen.?
That's just the way it is. Everyone get's to voice their opinions. :cursing If if no one agrees with it, or if everyone agrees with it.
Why else would we have these Forums.
unk.
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Now that's a thread I could get behind......:lmao
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