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treyZ28

· HEY GUYS! I'M A LAWYER AND AN ENGINEER!! SRSLY, LO
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
specifically the rear ones: Any special tools required? Is it particularly difficult to remove and reinstall them?

Also, my rear wheel is clunking (on the stand, engine off, rotating the tire by hand). That is the wheel bearing, right? I've already ruled out the chain.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
You just won't give up, will you? I mean we ignored the shit out of you in the other thread, can't you get the hint? :D

Seriously though, marginal/failing wheel bearings generally do so very quietly. Remove your rear wheel and spin the bearings by hand.

Google is your friend:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...=motorcycle+wheel+bearing+replacement&aq=0&oq=motorcycle+wheel+bearing+replacem

Cool. I did the google search, but couldn't find anything that was specific to GSXRs. I could barely find anything with modern (less than 10 year old) sport bikes.

I have a wheel that has the bearings inside it, but no tire. I'm wondering if I can get the bearings out without destroying them or if I should swap tires.
 
Bearing removal destroys the bearings; however,, once removed, you can use the numbers on the bearings to find very cheap non-suzuki replacements.
 
It's beyond a fiscal issue. The impact necessary to drive out bearings from the inner race are strong enough to cause the rolling elements to dent the inner and outer races.
 
A tip to that tip...

You can actually use a hair dryer or preferrably a heat gun to heat the bore. If you put the bearing in the freezer, make DAMN sure that you wipe any moisture off it as it will cause the housing to corrode if you trap it in there.
 
nope, dont have a press but I have a spare wheel that I practiced on and I notice that the bearings where flush with the rim without any dust covers and the inner spacer was just kind of floating around in the middle, so im guessing the spacer should barely move?
 
Push it in until it contacts the center spacer tube on each side or bottomed out. You must have enough space to pop in the oil seal on each side after the bearings are pressed in.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I just got a new wheel from my buddy and gave him my old wheel + ordered him a set of wheel bearings. Much easier :lol:
 
You can remove and reuse the bearings if they are good if you have the right tools... But as stated, the stock wheel bearings (two in the wheel, one in the cush drive hub) are fairly cheap. They should be sealed on both sides. The cush drive bearing is more expensive.

I check bearings every time I have a wheel off a bike by hand. I also clean off any chain lube mung and lightly lube the bearings with good grease - helps prevent moisture from getting in...

In many cases, the suzuki wheel bearings are the same as kawasaki or other brands - as long as the sizes are the same and the seals, find the cheapest one. I would go with a name brand bearing though, if not OEM - like SKF or Timkin. We also sell a lot of Worldwide Bearings Ceramic bearings... Very low friction and reduced rolling resistance.

Bearings don't have to be installed on a press - I have always done them with a set of aluminum fittings and a mallet. Just don't forget the inner sleeve :)
 
What does the inner sleeve do inside the rim anyway? Does is spread the forces acting on the wheel across both of the bearings? I have always wondered this.. :dunno
 
It just spans the space between in the inner races, just like the outside spacers do. The bearings would melt themselves if you exerted the lateral forces that tightening down the axle nut creates. The spacers and inner bearings all pinch together to ensure the inner races do NOT spin at all.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
When I pop my sprocket on, there is a bit of a gap between my outer spacer and the sprocket. It's not big, but it's not touching enough to hold it in place. I'd say there is 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch. Normal?
 
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