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Alright SRAD peps, I need some serious help

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gixxer6nick

· hillbilly away from home
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
1998 gsxr-600:

Let me start off by saying that I about had to change my pants last night on my way home. I'm on my way home and make a left onto a main road. I'm comming upon a traffic light (that's turning yellow) so I let off the throttle completely and take my right hand off the grip. Out of nowhere, the bike goes from idling to redline and takes off:eek:hmy. I immedately know something is up, so I pull in the clutch lever and flip the kill switch.

I go over to the side of the road, make sure the bike is in neutral, flip the kill switch back on and go to start it. Once it fires up, the bike immediately goes to redline (not even touching the throttle). So I turn it off again and make sure the throttle is twisted to the off position. Try to start it again and same thing. After a few more attempts to start it, it starts back up fine, idling around 1200-1300rpms. Click into first gear and head home.

This is completely stumping me. It's a carbed bike, the only way (that I know of anyways) for the bike to throttle up is via the cam on the side of the carbs, right? So I'm thinking I have a carb issue, they are here with me at work now. What else could it be? Could there be anything else causing this to happen?:scratch
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Boss Man said:
Check your throttle cables and throttle return spring. Maybe one of them is broken?

Also check the butterflys on the carbs.

I don't know what else it could be.
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The first thing I checked was the throttle cables, hoping one of them was either broke or jammed up, but no go. Even checked the throttle tube to see if the farrel position was oblonged or something, everything so far is checking out fine, it's really irratating.:scratch

I'm just now starting to get a chance to work on the carbs and all the linkages and everything mechanical on them seems to be working fine. This is completely mind blowing to me. I could understand if it was the new throttle by wire, but this is old school cable ran carbs.:dunno
 
#4 ·
gixxer6nick said:
The first thing I checked was the throttle cables, hoping one of them was either broke or jammed up, but no go. Even checked the throttle tube to see if the farrel position was oblonged or something, everything so far is checking out fine, it's really irratating.:scratch

I'm just now starting to get a chance to work on the carbs and all the linkages and everything mechanical on them seems to be working fine. This is completely mind blowing to me. I could understand if it was the new throttle by wire, but this is old school cable ran carbs.:dunno
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Couple of things to offer since I just rebuilt my carbs on my 750.

Check your throttle cable to make sure it is returning to your idle screw stop, it sounds like it is though.

Check to make sure that none of the butterflys hang when you hit the throttle (this should only be possible if some of the adj screws on the different parts of the spring loaded throttle cam have fallen out).

Check your choke cable routing and activation at each individual barrel of the carb, if your bike is hot and you activate your choke your bike will go upwards of 8k rpms...

Are your carbs in synce? Did something fall out, break to make the bike run rich? If all of a sudden the bike got rich you will get throttle hang and surge up in rpms.

If I had to put money I would say something fudged with your choke and made it activate, either that or throttle return issues but you said you looked, just make sure you are looking at the carbs to see if its returning, not the throttle itself. Best of luck, not much help over the internet, but should be obvious onces you start taking em apart.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
rob6118 said:
Couple of things to offer since I just rebuilt my carbs on my 750.

Check your throttle cable to make sure it is returning to your idle screw stop, it sounds like it is though.

Check to make sure that none of the butterflys hang when you hit the throttle (this should only be possible if some of the adj screws on the different parts of the spring loaded throttle cam have fallen out).

Check your choke cable routing and activation at each individual barrel of the carb, if your bike is hot and you activate your choke your bike will go upwards of 8k rpms...

Are your carbs in synce? Did something fall out, break to make the bike run rich? If all of a sudden the bike got rich you will get throttle hang and surge up in rpms.

If I had to put money I would say something fudged with your choke and made it activate, either that or throttle return issues but you said you looked, just make sure you are looking at the carbs to see if its returning, not the throttle itself. Best of luck, not much help over the internet, but should be obvious onces you start taking em apart.
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Thanks Rob, the more I think about it (still have yet to have a chance to take them apart, work sucks), I think it has to be something to do with the choke. It has brand new throttle and choke cables on it, but back when I rebuilt the carbs, the seals around the choke push rod seemed a bit sticky.

I know all the carbs are in synch, just did that about 1500 miles ago. It's just weird if it is a choke push rod, because it seems that if it was that, it would have that problem ever since I applied the choke starting it up. It's a good 9 mile ride home and this happened about 1.5-2 miles from my house (operating temp for a few minutes at around 180degrees).

After lunch, work will be on hold until I get a chance to look at my carbs:biggrin
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Well I think I've narrowed it down to the #4 cylinder carburator choke pull/push rod. The brass on the rod is showing signs of getting hung up and it was making a squeeking sound while I was inspecting it. I dismounted the carb and cleaned it up. I went ahead and put some 3 in 1 oil on each of the chokes and all seem to be working (without squeeking) properly. Now to test via going for a ride :woot

Thanks for the info peps.
 
#7 ·
gixxer6nick said:
Well I think I've narrowed it down to the #4 cylinder carburator choke pull/push rod. The brass on the rod is showing signs of getting hung up and it was making a squeeking sound while I was inspecting it. I dismounted the carb and cleaned it up. I went ahead and put some 3 in 1 oil on each of the chokes and all seem to be working (without squeeking) properly. Now to test via going for a ride :woot

Thanks for the info peps.
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Glad you found the issue (hopefully). I spent the last two weekends rebuilding my carbs demonstrating to my g/f why I said they can drive you batty. I bought the '98' 750 off a guy who said he never messed with jetting the carbs. After being stupid and going for a ride from orlando to tallahassee on what I thought was a well running slightly rich bike I found out the guy had installed a jet kit (bike fouled the plugs at highway speeds every 30-50 miles). Took the carbs apart to find a jet kit set 2 slots too rich, out of sync carbs, idle screws almost falling out, and missing spacers, wires, etc. I'm glad it wasn't my first time around a carb.

Enjoy!
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
rob6118 said:
Glad you found the issue (hopefully). I spent the last two weekends rebuilding my carbs demonstrating to my g/f why I said they can drive you batty. I bought the '98' 750 off a guy who said he never messed with jetting the carbs. After being stupid and going for a ride from orlando to tallahassee on what I thought was a well running slightly rich bike I found out the guy had installed a jet kit (bike fouled the plugs at highway speeds every 30-50 miles). Took the carbs apart to find a jet kit set 2 slots too rich, out of sync carbs, idle screws almost falling out, and missing spacers, wires, etc. I'm glad it wasn't my first time around a carb.

Enjoy!
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I take it he was the one who put it in too:lol. You said a 98', isn't it fuel injected, or at least should be??:dunno



Carbs are a pain in the ass, especially if you don't know what you're doing. I have an extra set for the 600 that I've given to people to let them learn on them or at least understand what's what. Plus I use them for parts too:biggrin

BTW, are you still living in FL?
 
#9 ·
Yep in Orlando, oh and that's why '98' was in parenthesis. I told him it was a 97 as per the VIN sticker and that meant carbs (I had a 98). I bought it anyways since I've rebuilt carbs probably 6-7 times now and felt comfortable. Plus I got a bike with a confirmed 5800 miles for $3200. So the price was right.

Bike runs great now, had a lot of fun over the weekend with an Aprillia 1000 factory owned by a local racer who owns his own shop. Even w/ the g/f on the back I was very very impressed with how the old 750 held up. I also now know what my next bike will be.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
rob6118 said:
Yep in Orlando, oh and that's why '98' was in parenthesis. I told him it was a 97 as per the VIN sticker and that meant carbs (I had a 98). I bought it anyways since I've rebuilt carbs probably 6-7 times now and felt comfortable. Plus I got a bike with a confirmed 5800 miles for $3200. So the price was right.

Bike runs great now, had a lot of fun over the weekend with an Aprillia 1000 factory owned by a local racer who owns his own shop. Even w/ the g/f on the back I was very very impressed with how the old 750 held up. I also now know what my next bike will be.
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I kind of figured that, but didn't want to "assume". That's a very good deal on a 750 with that kind of milage. Shit, I paid 4500 back in 02 for my 600 and it had 14K on it (I still regret that).

I love the SRADs and I will probably never sell it. My next bike will either be a newer 750 or a 1K. The 1K depends on what Kawi has up their sleeves for the 10r though.

I'm in Daytona if you're ever up for a ride, let me know.:cheers
 
#11 ·
Hey guys I was wondering if I could get some advice. I have a 98 600 srad. The carburator kept on hanging up. I had different mech look at it, but I still have the same problem, I got a 750 carburator from a friend, so I was wondering if it could work on my bike. what would I have to do to get to to work properly. What may be the advantages and disadvantaged of making this swap?
 
#12 ·
You would have to adjust the fuel mixture and idle, if you are putting on new carburetors.
just fix the old ones, sounds like an easy fix.
I would say it's harder to get the fuel mixture right, than it is to fix a stuck carburetor
 
#14 ·
Speedeamon said:
so using the 750 carburator wouldn't have any benifits? I have the 750 carburator on now. The only problem i see so far is the delay wen a pull the throttle.
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That would be the out of tune downfall. Might want to mess with the jets a bit.
 
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#16 ·
You'll probably have to adjust the screws a bit to get it to run right. I don't know if the jets are compatible between the two carbs?
 
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#18 ·
The throats on the 600 are 36.5mm where the 750 are 39mm. The bike doesnt run properly because of the different sizes and they need to be tuned for your bike. Its not that easy to drop a carb in a bike and hope it works.

Carb sync required after you get it tuned.
 
#19 ·
Speedeamon said:
are there any advantages to having a 750 carburator on a 600 engine? I was told that the jet could fit.
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Unless your motor is modded so much that the stock carbs can't flow enough fuel, it's pretty much worthless. What's the point of dumping more fuel into the motor than it can burn? It's just going to foul plugs, reduce performance and kill gas mileage.

On the otherhand, you're one step closer to a 750 swap. All you need now is the motor, ECU and wiring harness. :cheers
 
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Speedeamon
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