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#24 ·
Change the K&N out for your stock, this will help a little, check on ebay for any stage 1kit for your bike. Pilots and mains can be had for about 10-12 per set but even shimming the needle probibly won't be enough. When getting shims go to your local hobby shop and get more small washers than you need, measure each washer thickness and get the four closest ones. You can double shim which will get you closer but I don't recomend it.
 
#25 ·
I can make you a kit if you have a 750 . All you will be missing is the lighter springs which I CANT give you... I can make a good assumption for main jet based on your setup and alt. . And as you can see in the second pic there is stock thick and heavy main jet and a titanium light and thin dynojet needle which I can send u. I also have new emulsion tubes if you need.
Interested?
 

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#26 ·
You can try to cover up a little bit of the K&N filter with some duct tape and then check you plugs. It will starve the engine of some air and power most likely but will richen your fuel up.
 
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#27 ·
By the way are you sure your not running rich in low rpm and lean on top?
 
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
I'm in my garage now taking apart the carbs.

The needles are cplipped at the lowest point and there is a shim already. Are The brass jets supposed to be all facing the same way? By that I mean the flat portion you would put a flathead into?
 
#33 ·
I'm confused on what your comment about the clip being on the lowest point. Do you mean the lowest point from the top of the needle or the lowest point from the bottom (the long section of the needle).
 
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#34 ·
What size main jets do you have in there?
 
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Discussion starter · #36 · (Edited)
I don't know what I have. Hence the thread.

I took the carbs apart and they looked clean. I shimmed the needles, checked the floats for damage, and used a digital caliper to balance the carbs. The far left cylinder is running richer than the other cylinders. Any ideas on what is causing this to happen?
 
#38 ·
Lower clip position from the top is full lean on the needle. It is basically pushing the needle further into the tube. Move it to the center position for a baseline. That #1 plug.. wierd.

Make sure you check all your clamps and such for leaks, etc.

BTW.. If you have adjustable needles you don't need the shims since you can move the little clip to change the needles position. That was an option if you were using stock needles.
 
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Discussion starter · #40 ·
no i forgot to. the farther the needle moves up the richer it becomes, correct?

if you stand the needle up in the position it would be on the bike, with the pointed end down, the clip would be in the lowest position of 6 positions. it had a washer, and i added another one.

i went riding the bike today, it seems to have alot more power under accel. but still bogs under 4k. infact it bogs more now than before. the plugs are not white anymore, the #1 plug is still black. with the needle raised more, can this give me more gas at lower ranges? im thinking the a/f screw and the shimmed needle is making me run too rich on the low end. i think if i turn the a/f screw back to the stock position it will help.

what circuit in the carbs affect what rpm? meaning how high will the pilot take you before the needle takes over, then the main jet?
 
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ol'trusty
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