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oil change recommendation

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oil and oil filter used on your k6/k7 600/750 (select two: oil and oil filter used)

  • Shell Rotella-T 10w40 synthetic

    Votes: 18 15%

  • Amsoil 10w40 synthetic

    Votes: 33 28%

  • Suzuki OEM oil 10w40 conventional

    Votes: 33 28%

  • Other oil (please list as i will add to the option list i.e. oil and oil filter)

    Votes: 39 33%

  • Suzuki OEM filter

    Votes: 59 49%

  • Other oil filter (please list as i will add to the option list i.e. oil and oil filter)

    Votes: 24 20%
  • Total voters
    120
21 - 40 of 51 Posts
#21 ·
Maxima Synthetic Blend 10w40.
OEM or Fram filters (been using only OEM the last 2 years).
Oil changes every 5,000 miles.


It's worked great for me the last.... oh.... 1/2 million miles or so.
 
#22 ·
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#27 ·
motul 300V
k&N oill filter

i only ride street and canyon...
300v...cuz is my baby.. i try to use the best i can.....
K&N... easy to install and take off.. come with a nut in the end...
to remove the stock one... stick a screw drive over the filter.. and take it off...
 
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#29 ·
Shell Rotella Syn usually.
Royal Purple lately and have been very impressed, I was not expecting to see a difference from teh Rotella Syn, but gears are smoother and temps are 4-7 degrees cooler.
For filter I go with the OEM.
 
#30 ·
my manual says the first is at 600, then at 4k..so your good for awhile...
 
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#32 ·
I would strongly recommend NOT going full synthetic yet. even though your out of the break in cycle your engine is still slowly breaking in its not 100% yet I'd say about 85% or so. The last little bit takes more time as the rings start to set more. Full synthetic will not allow the motor to continue to break in. I would hold off at least until 7000-10,000 miles before switching to the full synthetic.
 
#33 ·
I just got my oil changed and used Repsol Race oil for the first time. Decided to give it a try.
 
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#34 ·
cruzinZ said:
I would strongly recommend NOT going full synthetic yet. even though your out of the break in cycle your engine is still slowly breaking in its not 100% yet I'd say about 85% or so. The last little bit takes more time as the rings start to set more. Full synthetic will not allow the motor to continue to break in. I would hold off at least until 7000-10,000 miles before switching to the full synthetic.
Click to expand...

I know i am starting shit now, but:

The rings seat in about 100 miles or less.
Many high performance engines come from the factory with synthetic, so that is not a problem either.
Most synthetics are highly purified conventional oils anyway with better additives, so not a problem there either.
It how you break in your engine, not what oil you put in it later. The bike come with break-in oil anyway.


The reason I start with conventional is mostly because I do not want to spend all that money given I change the oil at first ride 100 miles, then 300 miles to get some more metal out, then 600 at dealer, then 1000 because I don't trust the dealers :D so why spend all this money on synthetic. After that I go synthetic.
 
#36 ·
Where Do You Get Your K&n Filter From?
 
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#37 ·
I can't believe some people have thousands of miles on their bikes and are doing their 2nd oil change. :scratch

My 2nd oil change comes at 100 miles...right after i hit 8k or so RPM.

Anyway, i use Rotella for the first 600 miles for the same reasons Zaxos stated. There is no sense in spending big money on oil when it will only be in there for a few hours or so.

Then i go full synthetic Amsoil at 600 miles.
 
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#40 ·
I would recommend to use normal mineral oil for the first 2000km then change over to fully synthetic oils! I use in my bikes Morris Racing Oil (Fully Synthetic) and a Scotts Oil Filter which is cleanable/reusable, much better than OEM filters, as you will be able to see exactly what is going on inside your engine!
 
21 - 40 of 51 Posts
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Rotella Rocks!!
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