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Jerky solution? Humm..

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keeno83

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I been seeing alot on here about people with the 'Jerky' throttle thingo going on... me being one of the people who suffer from this,
was looking on the 58cycle website and crap in general and came across this..

http://store.58cycle.com/product_p/smart tre gsxr7 06.htm

Now being a complete noob i am.. it would appear that this little 'contraption' would fix that problem?
Am i right, or is it a bit of plastic that you'd pay $100odd and wouldnt do crap :)
If it works.. and anyone has it installed.. let me know :D

Ta.
 
#4 ·
i tried one that i had left-over from my 05 750 and my idle raced when i let out the clutch. also would not allow the bike to run at all in neutral with the kick stand down and the clutch released. don't know if this one would do the same or not. if so, i wouldn't want one. when i put one on my 05, it gave it a little more peppy feal and had no negative side effects.
 
#5 ·
I have a TRE, not that one but another one and it works great. Jason at Karn's Performance makes them for I think $25.00. Noticable difference. Slight but noticeable. I wouldn't pay $100 for it though.

But to answer your question, I have it and still have the herky jerky problem. I have just about everything done to the bike and still the problem.
 
#6 ·
I noticed this herky jerky crap yesterday on my buddies bike. Its not so bad up in higher revs but when your around 5000 to 6500 rpm its terrible. It feels like i'm riding one of those mechanical bulls. He also has the TRE and -1 +2 gearing which just makes it worse. On my 750 with the stock gearing i notice the herky jerky stuff but its not as bad.
 
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#9 ·
with the STVA disabled it completely got rid of all my throttle issues, when you turn on the bike you hear the fuel pump prime AND the STVAs adjust before start up, sometimes if you start the bike before the STVAs open all the way you get the herky jerky throttle, the PAIR and SET helped, but no where as close as the STVA disabled.
 
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#10 ·
Someone on this board mentioned to let the injectors completely cycle BEFORE starting the bike. I thought this was a BS solution (I never did this on my R6) but I had to try it and sure enough. If I start the bike IMMEDIATELY after I turn the key, the throttle will be jerky in all gears. If I wait until the cycle has finished the bike is fine. I tried this numerous times with the same result. I even went as far as starting it quickly and riding with the jerky throttle then shutting it down at a light, waiting for the cycle to finish and then starting it and the problem was gone. Worth a shot. :cheers
 
#11 ·
ucigaragemilitia said:
Someone on this board mentioned to let the injectors completely cycle BEFORE starting the bike. I thought this was a BS solution (I never did this on my R6) but I had to try it and sure enough. If I start the bike IMMEDIATELY after I turn the key, the throttle will be jerky in all gears. If I wait until the cycle has finished the bike is fine. I tried this numerous times with the same result. I even went as far as starting it quickly and riding with the jerky throttle then shutting it down at a light, waiting for the cycle to finish and then starting it and the problem was gone. Worth a shot. :cheers
Click to expand...
There is no such thing as injectors cycling, the STVA cycles. Digital signals (injectors) do not need to cycle.
 
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#13 ·
ucigaragemilitia said:
Ok im sorry, i mean fuel rail priming. Regardless the bike still has a pre-start cycle that it performs (even with the SET valve disabled), thats all I am referring to.
Click to expand...
I agree and to add it only works for me when the bike is in neutral and i do it. If i start it in gear it will be jerky.
 
#14 ·
I'm glad to read this herky jerky thing isn't just me. I just picked up an '06 about 2 months ago and that jerkyness is annoying. What I notice is that it does it when I'm at mid to low-RPM's and close the throttle, then open it back up... which I do a lot here in CA lane-splitting to work every day. When I completely close the throttle it almost seems like the bike has shut off because there is so much deceleration, then when I just slightly crack open the throttle it wakes up and wants to take off, causing the jerkyness.


Does that describe what you all are experiencing?

I've removed the SET valve, put in a PCIII, and the Ivan's Smart TRE and they have not had any effect on this problem. Tonight or tomorrow I was planning to remove the Secondary Throttle Valve (STV) plates. Based on how the jerkyness seems to work, it seems likely this is the problem.

My theory: When you're around 4k RPM is when the ECU normally begins to open the STV. If you're cruising around that RPM and let off the gas, dropping below 4k, the STV closes, causing an increase of engine braking. Then when you crack open the throttle again, the STV opens suddenly, creating the herky jerk.

I'll try and remove the STV plates tonight and report back if that fixes it.
 
#15 ·
mxracer95 said:
I've removed the SET valve, put in a PCIII, and the Ivan's Smart TRE and they have not had any effect on this problem. Tonight or tomorrow I was planning to remove the Secondary Throttle Valve (STV) plates. Based on how the jerkyness seems to work, it seems likely this is the problem.

My theory: When you're around 4k RPM is when the ECU normally begins to open the STV. If you're cruising around that RPM and let off the gas, dropping below 4k, the STV closes, causing an increase of engine braking. Then when you crack open the throttle again, the STV opens suddenly, creating the herky jerk.

I'll try and remove the STV plates tonight and report back if that fixes it.
Click to expand...
You will love it, i do. No more waiting to start it. :D
 
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#16 ·
asinatra,

You say you disabled the STVA. Do you mean you remove your STV blades and this cured the problem? What is the side effects if any?

Suzuki HQ in Japan has requested my throttlebody for examination and they are giving me a new one.
 
#17 ·
COMEBACK said:
asinatra,

You say you disabled the STVA. Do you mean you remove your STV blades and this cured the problem? What is the side effects if any?

Suzuki HQ in Japan has requested my throttle body for examination and they are giving me a new one.
Click to expand...
Lift tank, remove airbox, turn the key on so that the STVA go to full open, unplug the STVA motor plug (closest to right frame). Put everything back together and ride it and see what you like.

If you like it and want to keep it:
There will be a high idle, and you will need to remove the cam device on the opposite side held in with a c-clip and the rest slides off.

You will have a FI light, i have two resistors that i will be picking up today to try and eliminate the code so it thinks the two motors are there.

i plan on leaving the butterflys intact only because i dont want to worry about losing screws into my intake tract and i will pretend it "straightens the air" into the enegine, tonight i will have some pictures.
 
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#18 ·
asinatra said:
Lift tank, remove airbox, turn the key on so that the STVA go to full open, unplug the STVA motor plug (closest to right frame). Put everything back together and ride it and see what you like.

If you like it and want to keep it:
There will be a high idle, and you will need to remove the cam device on the opposite side held in with a c-clip and the rest slides off.

You will have a FI light, i have two resistors that i will be picking up today to try and eliminate the code so it thinks the two motors are there.

i plan on leaving the butterflys intact only because i dont want to worry about losing screws into my intake tract and i will pretend it "straightens the air" into the enegine, tonight i will have some pictures.
Click to expand...
Right on, dad, this could be a quick check for those who suspect their bikes have the h/j fault. Assuming the secondaries are the problem of course.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
With the cycle when you turn the key on... the mechanic i spoke to when i picked up the bike from the dealer said to never turn the key on, start it straight away and ride it (never asked why) wonder if he was aware of this problem?
I allways let it cycle, maybe i need to leave it for a couple more sec... i'd love to mod the bike (STVA, set valve etc..) but very hesitant to, cause of the peace of mine for the warrenty... humm :)
 
#20 ·
I don't know if this works for all the 600's or not. I turn the key to the on position and let it cycle, meaning until the fuel pump quits whinnying. I have not had a problem with a jerking throttle since I started doing it. Some people like to wait 30 seconds or so, personally when its done whinnying I start it up. You can turn the key to on while you put your gear on that ways all the system are a "go."
 
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