Are the web 540/566's true drop ins, or will they require fly cutting? I talked to Kevin at KWS and he says the 540/566's will create clearence probs even without the yosh gasket. He recomended that I go with yosh ST1's with the stock head gasket. By the way I know many people with the webs with no probs. HELP
web 540/566 cams
igotta1000
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Are the web 540/566's true drop ins, or will they require fly cutting? I talked to Kevin at KWS and he says the 540/566's will create clearence probs even without the yosh gasket. He recomended that I go with yosh ST1's with the stock head gasket. By the way I know many people with the webs with no probs. HELP
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Fly cutting? Fly cutting of what, the valve recess on the pistons???
Kevin is one conservative guy.
Considering that you have to press on sprockets to these cams, why oh why would you press on the OEM
non-adjustable sprockets to make it a 'true drop in'? When you can press on APE(or WEB) adjustable
sprockets and set the timing to avoid whatever PTV clearance problems you might have.
(These cams BTW are made from stock Suzuki billets I believe and as such have the timing marks on
the cams, so it is quite possible for you to make these into 'drop in' cams that don't require
degreeing by pressing on non-adjustable sprockets.)
Have a look at my post: Cam degree adventure pics , dare I say everything you would want to know about these cams.
A few points; there seems to be a newer and older versions of these cams floating about, you want the newer
ones with the stock base circle.
I degreed mine to 104/109, thanks to the board members here for their suggestions.
While degreeing them the only time I had PTV problems was with the intake, and that was a crazy timing
of something greater than 128degrees (I went the wrong way with the adjustable sprockets).
Anyway I made 13hp from these cams, no thinner gasket, no shimming the head, no pixie powder.
![Image]()
Kevin is one conservative guy.
Considering that you have to press on sprockets to these cams, why oh why would you press on the OEM
non-adjustable sprockets to make it a 'true drop in'? When you can press on APE(or WEB) adjustable
sprockets and set the timing to avoid whatever PTV clearance problems you might have.
(These cams BTW are made from stock Suzuki billets I believe and as such have the timing marks on
the cams, so it is quite possible for you to make these into 'drop in' cams that don't require
degreeing by pressing on non-adjustable sprockets.)
Have a look at my post: Cam degree adventure pics , dare I say everything you would want to know about these cams.
A few points; there seems to be a newer and older versions of these cams floating about, you want the newer
ones with the stock base circle.
I degreed mine to 104/109, thanks to the board members here for their suggestions.
While degreeing them the only time I had PTV problems was with the intake, and that was a crazy timing
of something greater than 128degrees (I went the wrong way with the adjustable sprockets).
Anyway I made 13hp from these cams, no thinner gasket, no shimming the head, no pixie powder.
Joined
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46 Posts
thanks, anyone else?
We can't do much more than second guess Kevin.
For some reason or other you say that Kevin doesn't recommend the WEB 540/566 in customer bikes even
if they have the stock thickness head gasket. Maybe he has good reasons, I don't know, maybe as
street motors pile on the miles and loosen up the clearances increase and you might run out of PTV clearance.
Give him a call, see if he will tell you why.
You can choose a builder and go with their work/recommendations, or you can choose your mods and
look for a good builder (or DIY).
As Jeff points out you will be getting a very reliable motor from Kevin.
For cost reasons Suzuki will have acceptable manufacturing tolerances on their cams.
I am guessing Yosh will be spot on with the ST1s which will get a bit more power, plus they come with
adjustable sprockets so you can set your cam lobe timing to stock specs, which I believe are 105/105.
On my K3 the stock timing was 104/99, those manufacturing tolerances again.
Someone here posted a 7hp gain from the Yosh ST1 cams, and they also claim their timing was 105/105
from stock and that is how they kept it. With only that data you would conclude that 7hp cam from the
ST1 cam itself. Maybe it is lighter
Jeff has posted this in the past:
For reference when I measured my stock cams I came up with:
OEM:
=====
IN
===
BaseCircle: 1.105"
Lobe: 1.455"
Lift = 1.455 - 1.105 = .35" = 8.89mm
Open: 19 BTDC
Close: 133 BTDC or 47 ABDC
47+180+19 = 246 degrees of duration.
246/2 - 19 = 104 lobe centre.
EX
===
BC: 1.105"
Lobe: 1.414"
Lift = 1.414 - 1.105 = .309" = 7.8486mm
Open: 151 ATDC or 29 BBDC
Close: 11 ATDC
29+180+11 = 220 degrees of duration
220/2 - 11 = 99 lobe centre.
These numbers are a bit less than the printed specs for ST1s, so you should see a benefit with 'just' the ST1s.
Also the 750IN cam in the EX side of the 1000 is more or less the WEB 566, and there are a lot of people
with that mod.
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