you know when your sitting at a stop, and you shift from nuetral into first ..it just seems like bikes go into gear way to hard ? it sounds like metal on metal. huge clunck. its seems like all bikes do it though. i have a 06 1000, and a 97 cbr f-3. and they do the same clunck when put into gear. ive been next to all types of bikes and they all do it .. I THINK I HAVE 10W 30 NOW. SHOULD I SWITCH TO 10W 40 ?? OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT ?? I BET LUCAS ADDITIVE WOULD HELP A TON? I WANT THE BEST oil MONEY CAN BUY FOR MY 06 1000, !! WHAT WOULD THAT BE ???????? I REALLY HOPE SOMEONE CAN HELP THANKS:cheers :scratch :wait
Why Does Tranny Engage So Rough ? Thanks For Any Help !
bad91teg
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My K6 has always had the "clunk". It's worse than any of my previous R1's, too. I f'ing HATE IT, it's embarassing and the engine feels like it's going to fall right out of the damn frame. Seems to me that this is creating excess wear on the transmission componants, although I have noted nothing out of the ordinary during any oil changes (I use 10wt-40).
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3 Posts
bump....
when you guys feel this clunk, do you also get a minor "lurch" forward from the bike?
thanks
when you guys feel this clunk, do you also get a minor "lurch" forward from the bike?
thanks
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114 Posts
my knowledge on the subject is somewhat limited but every bike i have ever owned does that, all u can do to ease the prob is: before you shift to 1st, apply slight pressure on the shift lever & then press down swiftly and smoothly and u shouldn't have any problems at all!
The clunk comes from the spinning gears on the clutch side, having to instantly stop as they engage to the non-moving tranny side. (these only move when the rear wheel does). That is why holding the clutch in for a few seconds will better match the speed. (stopped vs almost stopped).easter bunny said:
Paul
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It has spin a little or it won't engage. The dogs are not likely to be lined up in a stationary gearbox. If you get a lurch forward with your clunk the clutch is not fully releasing. Fun stuff, that.
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65 Posts
you guys are all wrong, it has nothing to do with the oil... you need to replace the wave washer with that of a 06 750... read this entire post, it will answer all the questions. look at post #96 for specific instructions.
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108198&page=10&highlight=clutch+problems
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108198&page=10&highlight=clutch+problems
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5,376 Posts
I think the lurch is usually a little bit grabby clutch and a little bit viscous coupling effect on the clutch plates.
Nevermind my previous comments on the trans spinning up, I was having a brain fade and thinking the clutch decoupled the trans output shaft for some reason. I was thinking about it's location in relation to the front sprocket. Duh. I keep thinking these things are so different from cars and they're not.
Nevermind my previous comments on the trans spinning up, I was having a brain fade and thinking the clutch decoupled the trans output shaft for some reason. I was thinking about it's location in relation to the front sprocket. Duh. I keep thinking these things are so different from cars and they're not.
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read what i just posted! the peice cost like $15 and is so easy to install.... takes the problems away.d207gp said:Been there, done that, still clunks and lurches...( :mad
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Thanks! So that'll work on my dry clutch BMW K12RS, and my dry clutch Moto Guzzi V11S, and my friend's ZX-10R, and all the other bikes I've owned in my life that have the same problem?MannyMalice said:
Didn't think so. Holding the clutch in for a couple of seconds does, though.
KeS
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1,327 Posts
i would just shift into 1st gear when you get to like 5 mph and hold the clutch at the light and you dont have to worry about the clunk or anything like that when you want to start moving....plus its good practice to always be in gear when stopped to possibly avoid an accident
The way the gearbox on a M/C works causes the clunk. They all do it. If yours is worse than others, its likely that its the 10-30 oil that you have in it. That oil was designed for cars with one of its ingredients being friction modifiers. Great for getting slightly better gas mileage in a car but it can cause a wet clutch to slip. When your clutch slips, you get a larger clunk.
When you buy oil, you should not use any with friction modifiers in it. This is easy to see. On all oil containers, there is a sunburst symbol with the oils weight inside it. If it says "energy conserving" it contains them. Typically, any oil that is 10-30 or lighter will have them and be labeled accordingly. 10-40 or heavier oils, don't contain them.
A full synthetic is always better than semi or non synthetic anyway. You should always use the best in your baby anyway. There is argument about when to use synthetic in a new engine such as after break-in only. Just know that Corvette,Viper,Porsche,etc. all use synthetic as the factory fill.
When you buy oil, you should not use any with friction modifiers in it. This is easy to see. On all oil containers, there is a sunburst symbol with the oils weight inside it. If it says "energy conserving" it contains them. Typically, any oil that is 10-30 or lighter will have them and be labeled accordingly. 10-40 or heavier oils, don't contain them.
A full synthetic is always better than semi or non synthetic anyway. You should always use the best in your baby anyway. There is argument about when to use synthetic in a new engine such as after break-in only. Just know that Corvette,Viper,Porsche,etc. all use synthetic as the factory fill.
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You wanna share the science on that? Sounds like unexpurgated bullshit to me.sim5002 said:
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Moly is a friction modifier and even if an oil doesn't have an "energy conserving" lable it can still have alot of moly. Royal Purple 15w-40 which is marketed as a diesel oil has a ton of moly in it. Diesel oils aren't energy conserving labled and some still have moly in them.sim5002 said:
Regardless, the moly isn't involved in the noise he hears.:nono
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alright pal you keep that clutch in while i go clunk freekevin_stevens said:
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844 Posts
the washer mod has nothing to do with a dog ring gearbox clunking into gear. i have a dog ring gearbox in my mustang and it clunks into gear also. these are not synchro'd gears like a car. that's why you can shift with no clutch on a bike but not a car (unless the revs are properly matched). if your bike is lurching while engaging first at a stop then you need to adjust your clutch.MannyMalice said:alright pal you keep that clutch in while i go clunk free
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1,373 Posts
its funny to see all these different wacko opinions... LISTEN to palomartian. And for the lurching forward adjust your clutch CORRECTLY.
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MannyMalice said:alright pal you keep that clutch in while i go clunk free
Dude your just dumb and ignorant and think you know absolute best way to solve this issue.
He pointed out that what you recommended will not always work especially on other bikes. Yes this thread was strated and focused on just the 06 1000, but it is a common thing among all bikes, they all have this so called problem.
He proved you wrong and yet you still stand by your answer 100%. I dont get people like you, you run around and act like you know everything when you actually know aboslutely nothing. Im glad alot of people are smarter then you.
What happens when you decided to get a different bike and realize the same problem is happening? Are you gonna go out and by a washer from a different bike because it worked for you before. you probably will huh? Then we get to see a new post by you saying you fucked your clutch up how do I fix it.
I wish the world wasnt infested with people like you.:cheers
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176 Posts
after reading this post i noticed the 'clunk'. but only when bikes cold.had 3 gixxers and no hazzles, when cold probably the oil & clutch is sticky also i give it a lil blip before i swiftly click it into gear. and i guess since the engine has so much power it nessiates a heavy cluch that when cold it falls into gear a bit rough.i use 15-50 full synth and ride the wheels off the bike.adjust the cluth if it lurches would be the way i would go, not pulling apart the cluth to fix it.
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65 Posts
my bike (05 GSXR 1000 Race Bike) was having horrible clunk, chatter, whatever you want to call it during 1st engaugement. The original thread was for the k51000 clutch problem which i solved in 15mins be replacing the clutch washer. I've never ridden another bike with this problem... and it has nothing to do with the oil, just the clutch being starved of oil.racedgsxr600 said:
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