So you set it so it just hit the high point, then tightened it down?

 

thats it.

if you go the other way I proved it will get worse. I had it set in the low setting and I was nearly getting thrown around on the bike. Only thing saving me was my grip on the tank with my legs at some points. Don't try it, wouldn't suggest it lol.

 

did you or already has the engine rpms been adjustd to 1200? is the adjuster located underneath the seat also? (a dumb question)

 

I adjusted mine closer to 1300 rpm. You will know if you went way past the high line of the TPS adjustment display because the engine will start to rev up. I didn't have to re-adjust the idle after my tps adjustment.

 

That TPS setting is so subjective I can only guess some babe on the line had a jacked up voltmeter when she set our bikes. I did the same as you when I fixed mine I tried it in both directions and rode it. PAINFULLY apparent when you go too far the on/off reaction is magnified. Set it just to the high line and it was like getting a new bike. Gas mileage improved as well.

 

where is the adjuster located?

 

Its on the right side of the bike just under the frame below the tank. Easiest access is to remove the right fairing and push the wiring down a bit. Its No. 25 torx screw. Loosen the screw a bit and move the unit. You'll also need to short the 2 pins in the plug under the seat so that you can see the adjustment markers on the dash.

Its a ridiculously fiddley thing to adjust accurately, trying to move it a fraction of a millimetre while dealing with a delay between moving it and the dash indicator registering the new position.

I tried mine as high as possible while still in the middle position and it made zero difference, then I tried to set it so its just into the top position and it has smoothed things out but i can feel where its almost doing the H/J thing. Ive only done a short test ride, will have to wait until the weekend to see if its hidden the symptoms properly ... and see how the fuel consumption goes.

 

sweet...mine must have moved on me here lately...i had it set at the top of the middle line, and it worked good for a bit, but now its been getting realllly bad. Almost un-ridable at around 1700 rpms on or off the throttle...i will check this tomorrow after work and see what happens...i hope you are right this time!

 

will adjusting the TPS sensor affect the custom map on my Bazzaz fuel control module?

 

Thanks!:cheers

 

is there a more exact write up on this udjustment? just trying to make sure i do it correctly and nothing gets screwed up.

 

yeah do a search on herky jerky theres been a few good write ups lately some with pic's I believe

 

I finally adjusted my TPS. It was sitting _COO. To low. Now I have it just at the high setting. Holy smoothness. I'm very happy I did this. When I would hold a steady low rpm in a development, it would horribly jerk around. I just tested it, and it is 90% better, enough to hardly tell. :cheers

 

Here's a write up I made on it. :cheers


Step 1: Remove front seat
Step 2: Locate Dealer Mode connector, it resides just behind the battery, it is a white connector with a rubber cover on it, it has 5 or 6 wires going into it.
Step 3: Put bike in dealer mode, take a paper clip or a wire with two stripped ends and connect the two pins shown in picture

To ensure the bike is in dealer mode, look at the gauges and the temperature should be replaced with "C00" and a little "-" next to the code, the "-" is what you will be observing while adjusting the throttle position sensor. There are three positions of the "-" (top, middle, bottom)

Step 4: Remove the right side fairing
Step 5: Locate the tamper proof torx screw as seen in pictures below

it's behind the cable bundle you see running along the top of the triangular hole in the frame in this picture

You can get the torx head screwdrivers needed for this screw at any auto parts store, just ask them where to find the tamper proof torx screwdrivers. I couldn't find my torx head driver, so I'm unsure of the proper size needed.

Step 6: VERY Slightly loosen the torx screw (the black plastic piece behind the torx screw is your TPS)
Step 7: Reach into the frame and grip the TPS and begin observing the "-" on the gauges. Adjust until the "-" JUST hits the top position. Find the point that it juggles back and forth between middle and top then move it up just far enough that it doesn't juggle anymore. VERY carefully tighten the screw, if you're not careful the TPS will move while you're tightening the screw.

Step 8: Remove paperclip or wire from dealer mode switch, and replace the rubber cap

Step 9: Re-assemble bike and ride it like ya stole it! :cheers:

 

OK! on my bike i did this adjustment 1-year ago but the Suzuki Workshop Mechanic did replaced the tamper proof Torx screw into a normal phillips screw...WTF...now the TPS is on the high setting but can no longer make the adjustment, the bike has a very bad idle, backfiring, popping blue flames, abrupt lost of power in seconds at high rpm. Now my question, what's makes the difference of this two screws? why tamper proof when Suzuki replaced it?

 

is the "-" suppoesed to be in the upper or middle posistion?

 

Per manual: Middle

Per the best performance(IMO, and many others): Just at the point it hits the upper position

 

Hey,

I had been fooling around with my TPS sensor and finally found an easy way to set it up right and get rid of the jerkyness of near idle on/off throttle inputs. I had been trying to do it accurately and measure voltages, compare different voltages to throttle jerkyness improvement, etc etc.

so do you have the voltage you actually used? Its so much easier when you know what voltage to shoot for where you can read precision to like 3 decimals, as opposed to 1 out of 3 bars...

 

well done :cheers

 

Just adjusted mine! Wish i've done this before bike week :hammer

 

I am glad more people are going for it. I have been riding mine a lot after the adjustment and have had no herky/jerky sypmtoms at all!

 

first, thanks to everyone who had the patience and persistence to troubleshoot this problem. I've had the bike for about 2 years now, and since it was my first street bike i really didn't know what to expect with the on/off throttle, thought it was normal. Never really knew it was a problem, and thought every bike was the same, or i wasn't smooth enough with it. I had formed my riding technique around how it worked like someone else stated. Every blue moon i would get on the throttle with ultra slow application and wouldn't get much buck from the machine. Now after the adjustment, when i apply throttle during a turn its so smooth i can't even tell i'm back on it. Pure awesome

off topic: Liqtenexp where you get ur front fork sliders? i haven't been able to find ne

hope ne one who has this problem tries this because its made a huge difference with my bike, has ne one tried to inform suzuki with this repeatable solution? Might be worth a shot i guess but won't hold my breath
thanks again,
aaron

 

When the Suzuki rep come into the dealership I use to work at I informed him of how many people were having this problem and his reply was "You just need to learn how to be smooth on the throttle " and "when you get enough experiance riding you will figure it out" ..I explained to him that this was my 5th gsxr 750 let alone the 600's and 1K's I have owned or ridden and NEVER had a problem like this in 10 or so years of riding..He didnt give 2 shi%s less about it so I doubt they will care now..Unfortunately

 

... and it is not a solution, it is a fudge. Its not fixing the underlying problem, it is just masking the symptom.

 

Ya know, I wasnt planning on doing this mod...but i had some extra time with the bike apart so I decided what the hell...definitely glad I checked it. The little "-" sign was at the bottom of the screen. So i adjusted it to the middle where it should be. I tried going to the top but the bike sounded horrible at the top so I left it at the middle. The bike is noticibly more responsive so again I am happy I checked it out. Thanks everyone! :cheers

 

What effect/symptoms will you experience if you adjust it too high?

I adjusted mine to where it just hit the high position. Took it for a ride and it did seem to help the herky jerky effect. I do notice the bike was backfiring a bit under both hard acceleration in first and deceleration. Did I go too far?

Bike info:

06 750, PC3, Full M4 exhaust.

 

yes..... someone brought this back again.....:sleep. Use the search buddy, this has been talked about for ages....:banghead

 

If you turn it to far your bike will shut down.

 

If "-" sits too low, would the bike also shut down? My bike is getting the _c00 code and runs fine until i put it in gear and back it out of my garage. It dies right when i back the bike up.

 

^^^^ kinda what I was thinking. I havent been on in awhile and didnt see it. Im glad someone brought it back.

Im going to have to do this now.

Thank you for the time to do the write up.:cheers

 

i got all my slider from motovations for the person who asked.