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· AKA Pee Wee Herman
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Dude, seriously. If you are really looking for help you need to get somoene to help you get your ideas down on paper. I am not trying to be a dick, but you seem like you are getting excited and it makes it even worse.

Link he was trying to post: http://www.selectsmart.com/commentary/blog.php?m=2808

Just by reading what you tried to type is telling me that you are over thinking the entire thing. Riding in Manhattan or not, just get on the bike and ride it. Who cares if you accelerate faster than the rest of the traffic around you? The last place you want to be is in between two dopey broads in overpriced SUVs in the middle of downtown Manhattan. That is one of the reasons you would want to accelerate faster than everyone else, they are probably both yapping on their phones, not paying attention, and are ready to swerve into you at any moment.
 

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I may be misreading this (certainly a possibility right guys?) But part of me feels like you seem to think the throttle has two positions. Closed, and Wide Open Throttle(Wot).

There actually is a middle ground there, you control how fast you go with the throttle, not the clutch.

My suggestions to you for city driving? Take off in 1st, switch to second and take that to around 4-5thousand RPMs(i hope you know what the tachometer is and what RPMs are...), shift to third and cruise in 3rd for your 20-35 MPH driving. If you're going faster than that, shift up, and at your skill level, keep the RPMs below 7000. When I'm in heavy traffic, I usually keep the RPMs below 5000 at all times.

If you're worried about keeping pace with traffic, simply work on throttle control. Any sportbike will out accelerate a car in nearly any gear. I can start out in 2nd and still beat a decently powerful car after about 100 ft.
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Main point I forgot. Part of practicing throttle control is being SMOOTH. Do not ever twist the throttle rapidly. Slowly turn it until you reach your desired RPMs/speed. In city driving my throttle rarely goes WOT unless I'm trying to quickly weave past someone.

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· Function over F0RM
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3,838 Posts
I read like a cocky prick on here, but I admit, I cannot shift.

There are sooo many times where I over rev, slip the the clutch out, and it whips in gear.

To make up for it I bought a full Bazzaz unit. All the help necessary.
 

· Viking Foreign Affairs Attaché
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4,054 Posts
so who knew my problem was related to the throttle and not the clutch. thanks!
:blink

I still have no idea what was going on here, cept that you now seem to understand that the bikes throttle has many different positions to turn it to...the more you turn it, the more loud increases.
 
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· Registered
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2,291 Posts
:spit :lmao

I still don't understand what's going on.
 

· Registered
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2,245 Posts
Is it safe to say I win this thread? :)

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· Registered
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296 Posts
Okay...here we go.

Start the bike, squeeze clutch IN.(hopefully you're in Neutral)
Put her in 1st gear.(that's Down)
Slowly give it a little bit of gas...just a little.
Now slowly let the Clutch OUT.
As you're letting the clutch OUT, continue to feed her a little gas.

Congratulations! Now you're moving!
(Or you're reading this with a broken arm.)

------
But on a more serious note....shifting.

The bikes today ONLY take a "light Flick" of the clutch, while shifting on the move.
You don't need to squeeze them in All of the way each time you shift.

But to start off learning.....when you're ready to Up shift, Just Let OFF the throttle a Fraction... and Squeeze the clutch IN, almost simultaneously, but no. Then quickly pop the Gear Shifter Up, and gracefully Return the clutch lever Back Out. Once the clutch begins to Grab(or you feel that Split Second of the bike "catching" gear, let the Gas back ON a little, to continue moving.

You need to get IT burned into your bodies reaction...so it's natural, and you don't think about it. You also need to FEEL what the bikes doing.

Once you get the hang of it...you can do it faster, as you begin to "ride/accelerate" faster.
 

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Its kid of hard unless you have an MSF teacher on the back of your bike that can tell you if you re shifting properly. Sure you can get going out of the friction zone no promblem. Then things change.

Im sure on a track you are going from friction zone 1st gear and swtichgin to 2nd while flattening that throttle. In regualr Showbox jiofi.local.html tplinklogin day driving its a bit different. The cars ahead of you dictate the speed you will accelerate.So you can usually cant just run thru the gear WOT and dropping the clutch.

When it comes to starting off in traffic I cant find a medioum ground. Either IM not taking off fast enough and being passed on all sides or im jamming it out to the front. I gotta work on that. BU t my question is when going from 1 to 2 or from 2-3 or 3-4 4-5 or 5-6 When I am on the throttle and i roll off a bit to begin the shifting process, and i then click into tje desirted gear, how fast should the clutch be let out? Is this a thing where you will save wear and tear on the clutch by gettign iot out sooner causes in theory its "engaged" shorter during a quick release? Or is it alway just eas eit out unless youre in a racing situation?

When I let out the cluch in a slower situationyou can feel the clutch grab and feel youre in the gear you selected. if youre in the city you sometimes get to were you up shift and dont throttle cause youre not going anywhere yet. So i can feel it engage. So let say im in 2nd gear doing like 25 mph and going to shift to 3rd and a casual pace with traffic. Do i ease out that clutch let it catch or spool and then throttle? Or is that all supose to be one seem less motion more like a quick shift.
So say are ready to shift. this tim eyou let off the throttle the whole way, press the clutch and shift into 3rd gear and release the clutch. Now you can throttle. Is there a perfection shift.

I bet a video of someone shifting were you can HEAR the rpms and not them always talking would be nice :)

i need practice but not sure the proper way to practice.

This is only about up shifting. I read all about rev matching when you re down shifting...im working on that too.
In casual riding of course your rpm is going to be lower cause a) you shifted to a higher gear and b) while you pulled in the clutch, shifted up then let go of the clutch you were not on the throttle.
 

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Accurate Butt Dyno
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308 Posts
In casual riding of course your rpm is going to be lower cause a) you shifted to a higher gear and b) while you pulled in the clutch, shifted up then let go of the clutch you were not on the throttle.
Being that this thread is 8 years old, I'm going to go out on a limb and say the OP isn't seeing this. Take a look at the date stamp before replying, if it's a year old or more, don't bother. Just my $0.02
 
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