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Discussion Starter #1
yeah, check the gearing and I am sure it needs a tune up, the bike wont have viscious power but ti should definetly come up on the throttle, my suspiscion is that it needs a tune, you mentioned a pipe is it jeeted, and again, check chain slack and gearing, along with the valves
-Karl
 

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Thanks for the inputs.
Here are some pics



The bike has had a complete service and new fluids the last owner tells me. It idles well and dosent suffer from any flat spots.

Still I guess I should chk the valves. Will have to borrow some tools as I dont have my kit here.
Can I have the clearence values for the valves.
Also whats the best gas to use and best oil to use on the damper I asume the idea is to make it less stiff or is it to stifen it up.
On the anti dive which is harder 1 or 3
ta mates

[ 11-05-2001: Message edited by: Ron Chinoy ]</p>
 

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Hi
Just bought a GSXR1100 D reg (87).
THe Bike has only done 16000 miles.
I was scared that it would be too easy to flip. But for the past few days no matter how hard I flip the gas she wont lift the front wheel. At what RPM should I see the front wheel come up.
(Even my old RD350 used to do Power wheelies). Other than this fact. She runs sweet. Good engine note. Braided hoses. New 4x1 Micron exhaust system. New Paint job. And she really moves with good power.

Any idea how the Damper up front works.
a. The rebound damper 1-3 setings
b. The stering damper which seems very stiff but cant be adjusted. Was the orignal damper adjustable.

thanks
chinoy
Ps: Ill post some pics as soon as I can
 

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the bike should definitely be able to lift its front wheel under power (it won't flip over instantly like more recent liter bikes with very short wheelbases, but still)......you might want to give it a good tuneup....check the valve clearances, the older gsxr's are pretty sensitive to that. maybe a compression and leakdown test as well.....it IS around 15 years old, after all. 16k miles isn't that much, but who knows what kind of miles they were.....

maybe the previous owner has fitted taller gearing?

the lower adjuster on the forks isn't rebound damping, it's anti-dive compression. the screws on top of the tubes are for spring preload.

stock damper isn't adjustable.....considering the age of the bike, it should probably be replaced, or you could do bcjohn's stock steering damper mod (i.e. open it up and change the fluid
).
 

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Hum dosent look Im going to get any answers.
could you point me to a site on the net where I could get some answers to stuff like whats the stock gearing on front and rear sprocket for the GSXR and valve clearences.
 

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stock gearing is 14/47 f/r with a 532 chain.

as for valve clearances, i used to know them but have long forgotten, sorry.


if you're planning on doing a lot of work on the bike yourself, i'd suggest getting a factory service manual....you can get them from your suzuki dealer. there are also other service manuals as well, but i've found the oem ones to be the most comprehensive and detailed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
let me dig up my manual, i will get back to you soon on the valve clearance
-Karl
 

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ta maties Ive given ya both a 5* for being so kind and helpfull.
Look forward to chking the valves and maybe geting the old girl to lift the front end. Have to do a wheelie past a few speed camers before I leave the country.
On the Rd the procedure for power wheelies is get going at 2-3K and then whack the throtel open till the RPM hits 12000 then shift or turn off the gass to avoid fliping the bike. Whats the best way and rpm range on the GSXR Ill chk the gearing tonight
 

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Valve clearances are 0.1-0.15 mm inlet & exhaust for your model.
Yes, she should start to come up at 6500 rpm. Very fast indeed. What is your weight? If you're a big fella she won't come up.
 

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well mate as you can see from the picture I am a big fella. About 210+ pounds.
Still
One would imagine if my ratty old 1973 RD350(Ported and tuned by me). Can bring the front wheel up even flip the bike that a GSXR1100 should be able to lift the front wheel.
Ill lift the valves and chk but based on how the bikes running and idling so smooth I dont think thats the problem. Which leaves me scratching my head. I really wanted to pull some wicked wheelies past the Speed cameras in the UK before I left the country.

Ps: The only thing left to look as is the clutch I guess but that seems to be pretty ok too. But Ill go over it once anyway.
 

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by wolf1127:
Valve clearances are 0.1-0.15 mm inlet & exhaust for your model.
Yes, she should start to come up at 6500 rpm. Very fast indeed. What is your weight? If you're a big fella she won't come up.
<hr></blockquote>

sorry could you explain that do I take it inlet clearence should be .1mm and exhaust .15mm or do I take it that Both are .1mm +-.15mm
thanks
 

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Ron Chinoy:


sorry could you explain that do I take it inlet clearence should be .1mm and exhaust .15mm or do I take it that Both are .1mm +-.15mm
thanks
<hr></blockquote>

i think he meant the clearances should be in the range of 0.10mm-0.15mm for both intake and exhaust.
 

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Hum .10-.15 that is really tight clearences.
I took the bike over to an exp. workshop guy he says the engine sounds fine. It starts up easy. Idles really well dosent make any sounds. Reckons the valves are ok.

I tried every combination and kept on eye on the RPM guage. There is no way it will wheelie at 6000 RPM. The power seems to start at arround 8000 RPM. And builds from there.

Ive also found it runs better once its warmed up a bit. Could it be the gas im runing. 95 RON should I try a higher octane.

I found the power band is nice and wide starting at 8000 and all the way to 11000.
My exp on a new srad 750 was no power below 8000 RPM and then suddenlly an explosive blast of power that spun the rear wheel with the bike spining up the wheel fishtailing down the road.
Im sure if the roads where dry the nose would have come up.

Just wish there was another 1100 owner arround who could have a look at the bike.

Na mate I wont fall been doing crazy stuff like this for 20 years.
Everything on the bike looks sounds and runs so well that this problem really has me foxed. And keeps me up nights.
 

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i think .10-.15mm is about right......i remember doing valve adjustments, and the correct feeler gauge was quite thin....

3000rpm isn't a wide powerband for an 1100.



i wonder if this could be a jetting or cam timing issue....

those look like the stock carbs....maybe pull them apart and check jetting?

also, you can pop off the valve cover and look at the cams to see if they've got adjustable sprockets on them....if so, a previous owner may have timed the- cams for top end power....

[ 11-07-2001: Message edited by: jeff ]</p>
 

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btw, these oil cooled gsxr motors should make sounds......if it's too quiet, the valve clearances could be a bit too tight. have the mechanic actually check the clearances.


this might be a bit far-fetched, but have you confirmed displacement of the motor? who knows, maybe a previous owner stuck a 750 motor into the frame....that would certainly explain the narrow powerband.

remove the left side fairing and check the displacement stamped on the cylinder block.....it should be 1052....
 

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re: lash settings, my B12 is a rocker-arm engine; I generally run the clearances at 0.006" [0.15mm] intakes and 0.009" [0.23mm] on the exhausts.

Rocker noise = good.

.
 

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by gsxr1198:
re: lash settings, my B12 is a rocker-arm engine; I generally run the clearances at 0.006" [0.15mm] intakes and 0.009" [0.23mm] on the exhausts.<hr></blockquote>

Those are the settings for the later models. No need to confuse the issue.

The '87 model is an "H" not a "D".
I have a friend who's got the same bike as me and dynoed at the same hpower. He weighs 115 kgs and I weigh 70 kgs. My bike gets the nose up everywhere; his doesn't.
Try sitting back and upright on the seat. At 6500rpm hit the front brake and release quickly and pull on the bars. Even with your wheight she should come up. If she doesn't get her dynoed and find out if she's making enough power. Could be anything not just the valve clearances. Most likely she needs a valve grind after all these years.

[ 11-07-2001: Message edited by: wolf1127 ]</p>
 

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Lol Sorry for that.
The bike runs fine in any band. I can stick it and 5th gear and ride arround town without geting the RPM needel off 3000 RPM. When I say band I mean the kick in the pants feeling. The feeling that your being launced by a giant rubber catapult and are being shot down the road. That rush only starts after 8000 RPM before that the power is still there.

Ive been tinkering and porting and doing engines for years. True the largest motor Ive ever worked with is my RD350 and VF750. So I doubt its the carbs. If it was it would show up. Not on this motor no flat spots very smooth power. You can whack it open and she pulls clean. Wouldnt do that if ther was a jeting problem. Or carb setup.

I guess what I really need to do is
a. Get a lighter guy to give it a go
b. Pull the plugs and chk the color.
c. Pull the cover and chk the valves

will keep you posted.
Even take some pictures of the plugs and cams.
No I checked all that stuff when I bought the bike. It is a 1100.
Maybe all these years of dreaming and drooling of riding one has wound up my expectations too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
beat me too it....
btw, what is your technique for trying to wheelie
if I recall right, the meat of the torque curve should be around 6500-7500, anything higher, and the power wont be there, try this, start in first, get going about 20mph or 3500-4000 rpm, blip the gas to about 6750, wait a brife second for it to hit 6k on the tach and crank it that should do it, you might be either too high or low in the power band
*DISCLAMIER....IF YOU FALL AND BREAK YOUR SELF
AND OR BIKE KJ1 IS NOT RESPONCIBLE*



Karl
 
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