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Discussion Starter #1
Morning Fellas.

Went to fire the girl up this morning (2016 r1000), turned the key and got a second of the normal start up routine (light gauges / prime fuel system etc) then everything went dark. Any further attempts to turn the key gave me nothing, no lights, no fuel getting primed, just sadness.

As normal I was running late for work so just had to drive to work like a peasant.

Just trying to get my plan sorted out so when I get home I can hopefully solve this efficiently. I suppose it could be as simple as a battery (probably my first step), but what worries me is that half power cycle. Any chance I blew my starter fuse on power up? I want to say I heard a pop during the failed power cycle...but it might have just been in my head.

Just looking for anyone who has experience anything similar so I can jump right to a potential problem area.... or it's just the painful process of starting at the battery and checking everything.

Thanks.
 

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First place I'd check would be the main 30a fuse. If that popped,start inspecting for shorts/frayed wires/etc
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Checked the 30A fuse it looks good.

Tested the battery got 12.67 which seemed good. Turned the key to the on position it drops to 1.... well super. Sounds like a bad battery to me, anyone have other thoughts or other things I can check before I drop some coin on a new one?

Thanks.
 

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This is a tad off topic but still seems relevant enough to include here. I just noticed that the K5/K6 service manual has NO mention of the tightening torque for the battery cable connections at the battery or the starter solenoid. The only torques listed are for the connections at the starter and the crankcase (engine ground). I tried looking in Yamaha, Honda, and Kawasaki manuals only to find the same thing. I emailed Yuasa who responded that they didn't have such information (even though their battery terminals come with a screw). Instead they said "Just like anything else when a nut and bolt is being used, use your best judgment when tightening". How insightful. I'll remember that the next time that I'm tightening a connecting rod or head bolt. No response from Shorai. Customer service at Interstate Battery transferred me to a local distributor who said that it's a technical question and I should never have been referred to them.

I don't know what the issue is but EVERYBODY seems to be avoiding this. I contrast this with seemingly trivial items like the nut that holds the lead wire on the oil pressure switch or the air bleeder screw on the thermostat housing, both of which are spelled out in the service manual. Am I missing something?
 

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I don't know what the issue is but EVERYBODY seems to be avoiding this. I contrast this with seemingly trivial items like the nut that holds the lead wire on the oil pressure switch or the air bleeder screw on the thermostat housing, both of which are spelled out in the service manual. Am I missing something?
In the servicing information section of the manual, after the table listing specific torque figures for many of the bolts, there's a generic table of torques. The manual mentions:

For other nuts and bolts not listed in the preceding page, refer to this chart:
Do you have reason to assume that the torque listed there for "conventional bolts" would not be applicable?
 

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I'm aware of those generic torques and they may well be applicable, though the 4 ft-lb seems a bit low and the 7 ft-lb seems high. Batteries are very commonly connected by owners and it's important to make a good connection. This is complicated by the battery terminal screws normally having a dual hex/cross recess drive head. Comments like Geesxara's are common with regard to no-start problems. So I'd expect Suzuki to nail down the tightening procedure with specific recommendations - as they do for every other important bolt. Yet they duck the issue. I originally thought that the reason might be that the battery is non-Suzuki and replacement batteries from other manufacturers are commonly used. So the battery manufacturer might be the place to look. But the manufacturers duck it too. I'm wondering if there's some sort of issue, ex. product liability, that has everybody avoiding the matter.
 

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YUASA does seem to provide terminal torques for some battery models, although I could find no such figure for the ones typically used with motorcycles. In the linked PDF though, the given figure is 2.45 Nm, which is not too far off the 3Nm figure given in the manual for "conventional" M5 bolts (which is what the E-type terminal mentioned in the sheet seems to be using).
 

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Yuasa UK lists some torques for non-motorsports batteries here. These are for "Industrial Applications" but seem to include golf cart and mobility scooters. I mentioned as much when I contacted Yuasa USA. They seem to roughly correlate with screw size but I figured the simplest thing to do was to ask as surely they would know, only to get that silly response.

Shorai got back to me and pointed out that the instructions provided with their batteries include a torque recommendation. It's 24 in-lbf or just over 2 ft-lbf maximum. This is much lower than I expected, particularly since an M6 screw is used. Note that it's essentially half of the generic torque in the service manual. Shorai also makes a larger capacity battery with what they refer to as a type 3 case. It also uses M6 screws but the torque is up to 68 in-lbf (5.7 ft-lbf) there. That's what my gut tells me to use. So it seems that only Shorai provides a torque and it is so low as to be questionable.
 
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