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Discussion Starter #1
I have 2009 gsxr 1000 today i had very bigh wobling after 160 km and almost crashed .

I want to check my electrical oem damper how can i check if its in good condition or not ?
 

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Captain Obvious ... because obviously it’s obvious
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If you're getting wobbling at 100mph, you need to figure out what is causing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Tire preasure is normal , i think there is problem on head staring becouse when i am using fast break in front from front end of motorcycle there is a strange noise i think head staring need grease and its loosen , i will fix this problem but anyway i am interested with damper how can i check if it works ? Anyway such a big wobble is a bit fault of damper also becouse it must prevent such a big whoble even if stearing is losen not ?
 

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Ex-Lady Supermod
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"Normal" tire pressure is not a given, people run different tire pressure. I run strictly OEM tire pressure @ 36F/42R. So what "normal" tire pressure are you running?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
2.3 bar front 2.7 bar rear

And what about damper is it possible to test electric demfer its working or not well ?
 

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Tire preasure is normal , i think there is problem on head staring becouse when i am using fast break in front from front end of motorcycle there is a strange noise i think head staring need grease and its loosen , i will fix this problem but anyway i am interested with damper how can i check if it works ? Anyway such a big wobble is a bit fault of damper also becouse it must prevent such a big whoble even if stearing is losen not ?
Why dont you inspect your steering head bearings and adjust them correctly along with tightening the stem nut and road test again. A loose front end like that would no doubt cause problems that a steering damper simply can not mask.
 

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I know things... A lot of things.
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You need to be a bit more specific, both in your thinking and in your reporting, if you're going to troubleshoot this. Apart from the fact that "wobble" can mean many different things to different people, you don't mention, or seem to give much thought, to how the problem developed. Instead, you seem to think along the lines "the steering damper fixes, wobbles, so it must be broken", which is often misleading.

Unless by wobble, you mean a headshake or tankslapper for instance, where the steering bounces rapidly from lock to lock, the steering damper has nothing to do with it. If it is a headshake we're talking about, you should think how it developed. Was it during a hard braking maneuver? When landing from a wheelie? After hitting a big pothole? Depending on the situation, different considerations may be relevant and it may even be that it's not a problem with the machine at all, and just plain old bad rider input. After all, I doubt whether a steering damper can tame all cases of wobble.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I was riding on highway, and was trying to fast acceleration from 2rd gear , sudenly handlbars start to shake very strong and fast at least it was 6-7 sec. That was problem . Here is video of my situation 1 started race with 2rd gear so like i can see i was in 4rth gear when started :( could anyone help me to determine what was problem ?

https://gfycat.com/gifs/detail/HauntingComfortableDodo

And about sound , when i am trying hard brake front very fast , there is some crack sound from motorcycle
 

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That’s Mister Chalet To You ....
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Has this motorcycle ever been crashed in the past? How long have you owned it?

I'm trying to understand if this is something new or you're just now discovering the problem.
 

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Captain Obvious ... because obviously it’s obvious
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2.3 bar front 2.7 bar rear

And what about damper is it possible to test electric demfer its working or not well ?
Your steering damper is the last thing you should be looking at. What you're asking is same as being shot and asking if a certain bandaid will fit over the entry wound.
Figure out what's causing the shaking, whether it's a bent wheel, loose head bearing, poor suspension setup, etc.
 

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Although the video doesn't show the steering head, it does look like a true wobble alright. It's hard to tell from that point of view and I'm no expert in any case, but one thing is relatively clear. The instability started after landing from a small wheelie. It should be relatively safe to assume that you landed the front with the handlebars misaligned, that is, not looking straight, in the direction you're traveling. This has the same effect, as going straight at speed and yanking the bars to the side with all your might. (Actually, it's probably worse than doing that.) The wheel will try to realign with comparable force, it will overshoot and might start to wobble.

So you generally avoid that, but the steering damper is designed to help mitigate this problem, so either there is some problem with its operation, or the wobble was too big for it to handle (or at least to prevent entirely from happening, as the wobble was, happily, dampened in the end, one way or the other). There's also something else of note in the video. After landing from the wheelie at second :37, there's a period of a few seconds where there is a clear instability, which doesn't seem to develop, i.e. it doesn't seem to get worse. Then though, after about second :40, there's a very sudden (within less than a second) and great increase in terms of the violence of the shake. One explanation for that, since you mention starting in 2nd, but being in 4th when the problem developed, would be that you tried to shift gear at that point.

This would cut all power for a split second, hence causing a sudden drop in acceleration. If the front wheel was barely grazing the asphalt, due to the great level of acceleration up to then, it would then suddenly slam down onto the pavement, causing the latter to "grab" it and, if misaligned, yank it much more forcefully to the side, trying to straighten it again. That would be mistake number two, leading to 3-4 seconds of what looks like crying-for-my-mommy-level wobble. The fact that it straightened out in the end, might well imply that the stabilizer did its job pretty well.
 

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Replacing the fluid in the damper with something heavier used to be a common topic here. You'll have to go back a couple years or more but a search should find several such threads. There's information in them about how to check that the damper is full of fluid. Here's one.

Your problem sounds like bad steering head bearings or maybe bad wheel bearings or maybe front tire issues like imbalance or wheel damage. There are several youtube videos about checking the steering head. The damper will help but you can't expect it to solve (i.e. cover up) significant problems elsewhere.

P.S. The service manual describes some steering head checking on 6B-11. But frankly the youtube videos do a significantly better job. The service manual mentions supporting the bike with a jack but again doesn't provide any detail. I cringe when I hear of people lifting the bike by the headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Today i checked front end of motorcycle , stearing nut, bearings , forks, tire . Everything was good . Then i removed damper and start ro check it and was somthing interesting :

First i tested damper with engine on and it was too soft. After that i tested it woth 12v from battery and it was so stiff and good. That if i would have such a damper when i have wobbline it would be so easy to stop it.

Adter that i used my rear stand for moyorcycle and start test damper with motorcycle speed on 240km/h damper was 15% stiffer then soft but it was easy to move by hands . So does anyone know why its like this ? I think it would be great if after 100km/h it would be as stiff as it was from battery 12v
 

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See this. At 240 KPH it should be quite stiff. I assumed that the damper received a pulse width modulated signal from the ECM instead of a variable voltage but don't really know.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes you are right but its interested what heppens to me that its not very stiff i need good tutorial how to check everything about damper well
 

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I'm not sure how stiff is "stiff and good" vs "too soft", but bear this in mind: The damper, whether electronically controlled or not, must be of a sufficiently low damping coefficient, to allow the motorcycle to function. In other words: most of the time, the bike is, hopefully, not wobbling and you're riding it normally and if the damper was super-stiff then, the bike would be unsteerable and unstable. In fact, the damper is more or less always "in the way", i.e. detrimental to stability when the bike isn't wobbling, so it has to be set as low as possible so as to not bother the steering too much during normal riding, but still be able to dampen any steering head wobble, before it develops enough to cause a crash.

The rationale behind electronically controlling the damper, is that you can afford more damping when going faster, but I'm not sure that I would expect it to be very hard to move by hand, even then. After all, as the OEM damper is mounted, it doesn't look like the forks push/pull on it through a large lever arm, so the damping force on the steering head, would likely be higher still.
 
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