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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The wire in the main plug for the speedo came out. The pin inside the plug is gone. Is there a way to repin that wire back into the plug?
 

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Is that the connector or the printed circuit? Male or female?

As far as I know, the connector that plugs into the cluster is a JST MIO type and the female pins are SHCM-A03T-P025. Mouser sells them here. No guarantees on any of this.

How on earth did it come out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is that the connector or the printed circuit? Male or female?

As far as I know, the connector that plugs into the cluster is a JST MIO type and the female pins are SHCM-A03T-P025. Mouser sells them here. No guarantees on any of this.

How on earth did it come out?
It looks like corrosion built up on the pin and it broke inside the plug. First the wire came off the pin.
 

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That's the connector than connects to the main harness. It's far more common than the cluster connector. You can get it and the contacts here among several places. You probably want the larger AWG 16-20 contacts. A crimping tool would be very helpful.

That connector is an ongoing source of problems. Putting some dielectric grease on the contacts ought to help.

P.S. That connector is supposed to have a shroud over it. All I see is some unraveled tape. Is it there? Your corrosion problems will be worse without it. Replacement is possible but the part number in the fiche is wrong and Suzuki won't fix it (way to go Suzuki!). The K7 shroud ought to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I
That's the connector than connects to the main harness. It's far more common than the cluster connector. You can get it and the contacts here among several places. You probably want the larger AWG 16-20 contacts. A crimping tool would be very helpful.

That connector is an ongoing source of problems. Putting some dielectric grease on the contacts ought to help.

P.S. That connector is supposed to have a shroud over it. All I see is some unraveled tape. Is it there? Your corrosion problems will be worse without it. Replacement is possible but the part number in the fiche is wrong and Suzuki won't fix it (way to go Suzuki!). The K7 shroud ought to work.
I removed the electrical tape and it looks like someone did a crappy patch job. Im gonna get some heat shrink tube and redo everything. Im not sure what wire to buy tho.
 

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Most often the B/W ground fails and the entire front end goes dead. But anything can fail. "Crappy patch job" sounds like a wire has been cut, which cludgers are prone to do. The first thing to figure out is what is the wire gauge. It's probably 18 or 20 gauge but see this. Beyond that, you want insulation that is rated for underhood temperatures, 105 °C is common. Wire with striped insulation is very hard to come by in small quantities. For example Digikey lists 24,000 types of hookup wire but only one in 18 gauge black with white stripe - for $7800. That is why I generally recommend against cutting wires in all circumstances.

This is how the shroud was originally installed:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ill post a picture later, but it looks like they added the main connector themselves. all the wires have been cut and extra wire was added to make it longer. its striped wire at least. From another bike
 

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Unless he knew what he was doing, and it sounds like he didn't, you may need a new harness. Used intact K5/K6 harnesses used to be readily available on ebay. But a quick search suggests that those days are gone. What was there tended to be chopped up crap. Sorry about that. Other parts of the harness in the picture above were junk.
 

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^I haven't done it on my K6 but it shouldn't be that hard. Look at the routing diagram on 10-18 of the service manual. It's important to start with an intact harness including the connectors. Remove the seat, tank, airbox, and plastics. Take many pics, at least 10, of the existing harness before starting, particularly of the area behind the engine/beneath the fuel pump, and keep your wits about you. I'm thinking it's an afternoon project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
^I haven't done it on my K6 but it shouldn't be that hard. Look at the routing diagram on 10-18 of the service manual. It's important to start with an intact harness including the connectors. Remove the seat, tank, airbox, and plastics. Take many pics, at least 10, of the existing harness before starting, particularly of the area behind the engine/beneath the fuel pump, and keep your wits about you. I'm thinking it's an afternoon project.
It cost a lot, but I bought a new one from partzilla. I will let you know how it gos.
 

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That's grim. A hack has been at work. Now I see why the shroud was missing. The wire colors coming out of the connector seem to be correct. But they seem to be spliced onto incorrect colors for the harness. For example the Y lead in the corner is correct. But it's spliced onto an O lead that runs into the harness. The slot next to the Y lead should be R/Bl. But it seems to be empty and I see what might be R/Bl running outside the connector near the top "flange". I see a W/Bl lead. But the only such lead on the bike runs from the ECM to the #1 ignition coil. I see G/Y spliced onto G/O. It's as if he had a harness for a completely different bike and was trying to adapt it to the bike. You definitely needed a new harness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The new harness is in and its working flawlessly so far. Only took 4 hours to complete with help.
 
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