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Satnam, you 100% correct on what you say.

I would like to add that with the MOSFET R/R that shunts more efficiently that the stator ends up dissipating the extra power. Something to keep in mind if the OEM stator is marginal rating wise. Or to put it another way not as reliable when run hard.
I don't believe that is true. The opposite happens. Being more efficient the stator will run cooler
 

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Damn, so this is a common problem? When did you guys have these problems? What mileage I mean.
I had mine replaced at 56,000kms, stator followed at 108,000kms. When i ordered a new stator from Alpha-sports, same time i ordered one spare rectifier in case it gets toasted again.
My bike now is 122,500kms and the rectifier is still good but got an idea that the lifespan is only going 56,000kms. So, better to buy one coz when u get a busted main 30A fuse and no current at all, the rpm needle is not pointing to zero, then you a have a toasted rectifier.
 

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topgunz1, the terminals lock into the plug housing.

They are either not pushed in all the way or they are in 180 degrees from what they should be.
Got it, I thought I was pushing them in hard but apparently you have to FORCE them in. I shoved them down in there using a small allen wrench as a punch and they clicked in tight. Hopefully I can button it up this evening or early tomorrow. I haven't ridden my bike but once since August, missed all the good weather!
 

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I don't believe that is true. The opposite happens. Being more efficient the stator will run cooler
The regulator is a shunt type.

If it has zero resistance when shunting the excess power from the generator then it will not develop any heat (Ohm's law). As is suggested the MOSFET type is more efficient (has lower shunt resistance) so it runs cooler.

However the stator resistance remains unchanged when the Yamaha regulator is used. Therefore the same amount of power or excess output from the generator will still be shunted for the same operating conditions. Since the regulator doesn't dissipate as much of the shunted generator output the the stator and wiring will.

It can be worked out using Ohm's law. Another way understand it is to look at the maximum power transfer thereom. Still Ohm's law but just another way to grasp the concept.
 

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It is alive! Bike has been down for a few months cause of this, I missed all of the pretty days this fall since I had some unforseen expenses come up which kept me from buying the new parts. I plugged it all back in and took it on a short ride saturday even though it was a bit chilly.
 

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I think when mine goes this what i will do exactly. Sounds like a very good plan!
Why until it goes and leaves you stranded somewhere? Do it now!
 

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Hey guys,
Just thought I would put my two cents in as well. I was thinking of going down the MOSFET route but came across these guys instead. http://www.electrosport.com/ Thought I would give the aftermarket shunt type a go first.

The sell a heavy duty (shunt) type reg rec with all the stock connections. Their new unit is absolutely fantastic. It comes in black as well so it blends in nicely with the frame if you want it in the stock position. Full one year warranty and only $109. Their sales and service guys are brilliant too - ask for Trent as hes a real pleasure to deal with.
 

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I am now well versed in trouble shooting the GSX-R600/750 charging system and thank full that I installed a Dynatek Charging system monitor several years ago. The monitor probably saved me from getting stuck on the side of the road some where.



Its a shame my original 5 year old battery is still going strong and it was my rectifier. I ordered a Mosfet from Jack at Roadster Cycle for $115.

http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen FH012AA Regulator upgrade kit.htm

I sent him a Papal and in 43 minutes had an email saying that my rectifier was on the way priority mail. I sent him a thank you on his quick customer service.

Jim at Eastern Beaver in Japan has an awesome wiring kit for the Mosfet that I ordered that will make the install a piece of cake. I got the Part B harness with the optional sealed connector for $60 shipped.

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R_R_Connectors/r_r_connectors.html






Hopefully I should be back on the road this week.
Hi Jeff

How Did your install go?
I am in the process of following your install,before I get stranded somewhere!
Questions I have....
1) did you relocate the rectifier?
2)with the eastern beaver harness part B did you buy the 14inch or 20inch harness?
and 3) regarding the dynatek charge monitor did you permantelty mount it on the bike, if so where?

Thanks
Ragards Jon
 

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Hi Jeff

How Did your install go?
I am in the process of following your install,before I get stranded somewhere!
Questions I have....
1) did you relocate the rectifier?
2)with the eastern beaver harness part B did you buy the 14inch or 20inch harness?
and 3) regarding the dynatek charge monitor did you permantelty mount it on the bike, if so where?

Thanks
Ragards Jon
Install was very easy. I did not relocate the rectifier. The part B, 14 inches is plenty. On the part A 36" almost did not make it to the battery and I kind of dont like where it put the fuse holder. On part A I would get 56" lead and a fuse holder. Then you will have plenty of wire and can put the fuse in a better place. I mounted the charge monitor with double sided tape on the right side of the instruments.
 

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Install was very easy. I did not relocate the rectifier. The part B, 14 inches is plenty. On the part A 36" almost did not make it to the battery and I kind of dont like where it put the fuse holder. On part A I would get 56" lead and a fuse holder. Then you will have plenty of wire and can put the fuse in a better place. I mounted the charge monitor with double sided tape on the right side of the instruments.

Jeff

Thanks for the super fast reply! I just put the order through.
You have made it very easy!:biggrin
Thanks again

Jon
 

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Install was very easy. I did not relocate the rectifier. The part B, 14 inches is plenty. On the part A 36" almost did not make it to the battery and I kind of dont like where it put the fuse holder. On part A I would get 56" lead and a fuse holder. Then you will have plenty of wire and can put the fuse in a better place. I mounted the charge monitor with double sided tape on the right side of the instruments.
Jon, How did it turn out?
Hi Jeff

Just completed the work today, been waiting pcv, spark plugs, air filter to arrive so can install all together while fairings, airbox, tank is off the bike.

I emailed eastern beaver to see if Part A kit was avail in 56" lead and fuse holder, but the reply back stated that its not available due to the fact that that length would require 10 gauge wire.

So ordered the part A 36" and part B 14" from eastern beaver and the SHINDENGEN FH012AA from Roadstercycle. Both extreme quick postage to Australia, and also I ordered the Dynatek charge monitor From Ebay.

The new regulator/rectifier has different mounting hole locations, so had to drill the original rectifier bracket, no problems there. As in Body80's early post with pictures.

The eastern beaver kit plugs straight into rectifier and the bike harness, very good quality connectors.

I had the same problem with part A of the kit, it isn't long enough from the rectifier to the battery had to put moisture proof splices and extend the wires to the battery. I know its not the best solution but its temporary. Will order new connectors in the future.

Finally I mounted the charge monitor in the tail stowage box, so i can look at every now and then, to ensure everything is running properly.

Thanks posting your setup/advice. It has helped alot.

Cheers Jon
 

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My 07 gsxr 600 RR went out 2 days ago, I suspect the stator is toast as well. I ordered the SHINDENGEN FH012AA , hopefully it comes in soon! Whats the best alternative mounting position? stock location seems like it cause this failure. (hot headers and hot radiator blowing straight to RR)
 

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My 07 gsxr 600 RR went out 2 days ago, I suspect the stator is toast as well. I ordered the SHINDENGEN FH012AA , hopefully it comes in soon! Whats the best alternative mounting position? stock location seems like it cause this failure. (hot headers and hot radiator blowing straight to RR)
I Have seen photo's of it were the set valve use to be in the tail section, but not much airflow there.
Have a close look at a 2008/09 gsxr 600/750, there RR is better located.
But you would need to make up a bracket.

Jon
 

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Zombie thread is relevant. Reviving is better than posting a new one with the same topic, right? Two questions:

Is there any positive/negative feedback on the electrosport RR?

Do you guys know where I can look for stator / RR in Europe? (when searching ebay.co.uk and ebay.de for the SHINDENGEN FH012AA for example, it only gives me a couple of hits from the American ebay) Ordering with post from US is fine, but that means pretty hefty import tariffs for me :/
 

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I believe the FH020AA is the replacement for the FH012AA. You'll have more luck aftermarket purchasing the 20 than the 12. You can buy it directly from a Yamaha dealer but maybe they are expensive in Denmark.
 

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haha thanks to this thread it reminded me about this, my gsxr has probably 15k on it now with no problems yet,or so i thought, my battery went dead after my last track day so my bike sat since then,poped another battery in a few weeks later and it ran good, but it was out of my girlfriends gsxr :p , so long story short i just ordered my kit now and will be ordering a new shori battery from motomummy.com in a few weeks.THANKS OP for the reminder!!
 
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